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Summit Open Shot alternative to LWHC

Earlybird31 said:
I have both the Summit Open shot and the LWHC setup. The Summit has been my go-to for a few seasons now. Just hang from your tether and zip up the tree. I have 85% pine trees where I hunt so it works well. I just strap it to my backpack or JX3 and go. I'll use a platform with the JX3 since I need to rotate around the tree. I've hunted out of the LWHC several times. I enjoy the lighter weight and the ability to hunt smaller diameter trees (although that may not be wise based on reported breakages), but the belt tends to get caught on pine bark much more than the summit cable. You need to be much slower and make many more adjustments. Also, I need to shift it to a good angle more often. It's also not as sturdy, so you're always concerned with overloading it or having it drop a little. It's so light and packable, that I've considered bringing it in with the Summit in case the best tree is a small tree. I've added tether straps to advance the tether this year, which will hopefully keep more of the slack out of my line and keep my fingers outside. The only way I'd ever use sticks or steps is if I was hunting north of the Mason-Dixon line. I do not miss that CF at all. I wanna get up most trees to any height securely and within ten minutes without doing some Cirque de Sole stuff. The Summit weighs about 7 lbs, because I added aluminum expanded metal and an aluminum bar, but the walk isn't bad compared to my Summit 180. Especially if you're in any kind of shape and have a frame pack. Once a good climbing platform comes out, I'll be the first in line. On all-day sits I'll still bring my big summit in. With good transport straps it isn't bad at all and it's a hotel in the tree. Best way to get high to see down into cutover.
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Pines are a necessary evil down here and the main reason I keep going back to using a climber and saddle together. I've been experimenting with the Summit hand climber as the foot piece in combo with a regular Viper top. 15.1 lbs actual hunting weight and will climb a pine like nothing else in its weight class and sitting down in it provides a solid shooting rest for almost 360 degrees. If I hooked a saddle to the top in place of the Hazmoor net, does it still count as saddle hunting?!
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I use my saddle every time I climb, even if it is in a climber. I use a climber that lets me face the tree and the saddle is basically a front facing harness. You're facing the tree while climbing anyway so advancing the tether is no big deal. I actually use my saddle under my JX3 because it's light and I can switch bridges easily once I'm at height. Having the extra bridge is also convenient. Your setup is interesting. I never considered using my climbing platform with a climber top. That would definitely reduce some of the weight.
 
mtsrunner, is that open shot hand/seat a steel or aluminum version. I have an old steel version I think I'll mod. It just a frame and kicking around
 
With the hand climbers as platforms how are they with side pressure to lean out and shoot 360?

Is that an option or is the big advantage to the hand climber weight savings ?
Thanks
 
mtsrunner said:
Definitely not ideal as a platform. I was a ROS guy for over ten years, so my platform requirements are minimal! It’s actually not bad, though. I can still stand comfortably
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Did you cut off the hinges for the seat section? That part could have been left on there to kind of fill in the center section if I'm remembering correctly? But then again you have quite a bit of extra metal in there then...? Or was it open pretty much as it is still?
 
Earlybird31 said:
Yeah, I got good at unhinging a summit cable from pine bark by pointing my toes down. Could try the same. Adding a bungy to the front side of the stirrups would help also.
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Don't those climbers come with a little length of bungee that's supposed to go around the backside of your heel to keep your feet in place? That's something that could be used to not have the climber fall off your feet..?
 
Regarding the open shot top, the bottoms come with a bungee but can be used on the top. IMO, it isn't necessary. The climber and cables are easy on a shaggy pine tree compared to other cables. The only downside is you can't get in smaller (~6-inch diameter) trees. Everything else is great. I sinch mine down with a strap if I want to apply side pressure.
 
MNMosquitoAssassin said:
Did you cut off the hinges for the seat section? That part could have been left on there to kind of fill in the center section if I'm remembering correctly? But then again you have quite a bit of extra metal in there then...? Or was it open pretty much as it is still?
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I didn’t cut anything but the soft seat off of mine (if I remember correctly)
 
I suppose that would work but I can’t imagine the movement to secure your feet and noise required to move around the tree with deer in range wouldn’t be a problem.
 
I have done it on pine trees with deer in range. It just takes practice. I’m not saying it’s ideal. Obviously, you would like to be in proper position well before the deer is in bow range, but it can be done if necessary
 
Reviving an old post

Recently, like in the last month, bought a Jx3 and got into saddle hunting. One thing I dislike is using sticks to climb, after a long-time using a Summit climber it would be so much easier and quicker to have a platform climber. So I found this topic very interesting

I wondering if anyone that spoke of, or is still using, a Summit open shot as a platform climber?

Do you have any update on modifications to make it better?

How does it work as a platform when rotating around the tree to make a shot? Does it slip or move? Do you lose a range of motion?
 
I hunt in an area where most huntable trees are pines. I modified a summit open shot to act as a climbing platform. It's my primary means of climbing. I cut the tilting seat support and the connection point off with a circular grinder. Then I had aluminum expanded metal and a metal bar welded onto the frame for support. When I climb, I hang from my tether and pull my feet up advancing the platform while slightly pushing away from the tree with both hands. I use a saddle that is comfortable for the sitting position and has two bridges. Once at height, I choose to utilize a predator platform just above the climbing platform. This is extra weight, but the additional rotation support is worth the few extra pounds when walking in. I store the predator platform inside my pack and strap the summit to the outside of my pack when walking in. At the tree I connect the summit and hang the predator from my saddle for climbing. In timber company land in the south it is extremely useful. I've rarely needed to, but if necessary I can hang at mid-height and adjust the level. I can get to an unlimited height quickly with what I consider a comfortable walk in. When advancing I only advance about a foot each time to minimize slack. The only issues are that I cannot climb smaller trees at about 7 inches or below and I cannot get up trees with numerous branches, of which we have very few. This is a quick description because I have one foot out the door right now, but the modified summit open shot top is my baby and I would be very disappointed if it got stolen. I've considered making a 2nd platform as a backup. In fact, if anyone has an extra open shot top, please let me know and I'll buy it from you. I've used it with all my saddles, including the JX3. It gives me the climbing ability of a climbing stand with a fraction of the weight, with the rotational ability of a saddle at height.

I've thought about creating one from scratch that could handle smaller trees and has an integrated strap system to use as a platform. Hunters have been asking for such a device, but for some reason, it has not been deemed marketable or feasible. I can go into more details if needed.
 
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