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Tether climbing?

Does anyone on here sell rope by the foot(ish) or any sites to get climbing rope by the foot instead of ordering 120'? I was thinking about the 2 tether method and just got my 2 ropemans so I can give it a shot

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Does anyone on here sell rope by the foot(ish) or any sites to get climbing rope by the foot instead of ordering 120'? I was thinking about the 2 tether method and just got my 2 ropemans so I can give it a shot

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Dan O.

Not sure how the ropemans would work with this model?
T
 
Wespur sells by the foot.


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I’ve never used a tree squeeze but I wonder how they would work for this method. They aren’t cheap though. Probably $150


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Dan O.

Not sure how the ropemans would work with this model?
T
Heres what I'm working on. This is one side. Similar to the 2 tether method mentioned above but assuming this would be easier to navigate limbs and adjust to trunk with ropemen.
6ec3e2a7a36e53de2e6919f8fbfddc82.jpg


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I tried it. I liked the single 2-3 step aider better but it isn’t as easy as one sticking.
 
This looks like it would be a little less complicated and should be pretty quiet.

Yeah looks about like what I was shooting for, "similar to a climber". So many videos I've never seen even though I've tried looking all this stuff up. Guess that's what forums are for. Thanks man.

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Heres what I'm working on. This is one side. Similar to the 2 tether method mentioned above but assuming this would be easier to navigate limbs and adjust to trunk with ropemen.
6ec3e2a7a36e53de2e6919f8fbfddc82.jpg


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Probably not an appropriate use for a carabiner.


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Probably not an appropriate use for a carabiner.


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How so? I did think about the biner and ropeman dragging against the bark. I also thought of a t hook but figured webbing would be harder to manage going up and didnt know if how the t hooks connection would be a good option in trying to set the cinch by stepping on it which would essentially be trying to disconnect the t hook. And the adjustability of the t hook may not be as functional as the ropeman

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A T hook will probably bend or break if you put your weight on it.

Using a carabiner to girth hitch a line around a tree will cross lod it. Look for a post here called “dangerous carabiner loading”.

You might be able to do this with a screw link and a prusic


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How so? I did think about the biner and ropeman dragging against the bark. I also thought of a t hook but figured webbing would be harder to manage going up and didnt know if how the t hooks connection would be a good option in trying to set the cinch by stepping on it which would essentially be trying to disconnect the t hook. And the adjustability of the t hook may not be as functional as the ropeman

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Why use a biner at all?
T
 
So I've ordered the materials to make a second tether so I can try this method. I'm planning on having a friction hitch on the second tether with a carabiner so that I can adjust the position of the foot loop as necessary based on tree diameter.

I'm trying to figure out what to use for the foot loop. I'm thinking that I would like two symmetrical foot loops so I could stand up with both feet which would be more comfortable and balanced. I was thinking either a length of rope with a figure eight on a bight in the middle for a loop to attach to the carabiner and loops on each tail end to step into or girth hitch to my boots.

I also thought about using tubular webbing as that may be slightly more comfortable to stand on. However, I've not used that material before so I'm not as well versed with it. I've used the search function here and it seems like I could do what I proposed with the rope using water knots and and overhand knot in the center. However, I was wondering if there was a way to tie the tubular webbing such that I get a loop in the middle for the carabiner and two large loops on each side for my feet.

E.g. suppose I have a length of tubular webbing laying flat. I lift each end and overlap them at the center of the webbing. I was trying to figure out some way to fold it in half and tie a loop, but I don't see that really working well since there would be 6 layers after being folded over.

I don't sew, so that's out.

What do you all think?

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I think a girth hitch on your boots could over tighten and hurt! Id do just a water know large enough for your foot. Probably use tube webbing and put something inside it to keep the loop open and somewhat rigid.

Let us know how if goes!
T
 
Still waiting on my materials, but came across this in my research.


It presents an interesting possibility. I am thinking this may work well on the lower tether. I may look for a small diameter rubber hose that I could slide over the rope before tying to protect the foot loops and add some width since 8mm rope is pretty narrow. However, that may make it too difficult to tie the knot so we will see.

The triple crown knot may also be of interest to the DRT folks or anyone who wants to ascend a single rope with just friction hitches.

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This is how I climb. I have two identical 11.8mm tethers. Each tether has two loops on either end. One end I girth hitch around the tree, the other end is big enough for my foot to fit into. There is a distel hitch (8mm rope) hanging on both tethers, which I use to hook my carabiner/rock climbing harness to. I use it for positioning myself on the tether hooked to my rock climbing harness - usually just set it once at the beginning of the climb. If the 8mm rope were to fail, I'm hooked up to the same carabiner with the end loop in the same 11.8mm rope that the distel hitch is on. Sure, I'd fall a few feet, but it should catch me. If there is a branch in the way that's too big to legally cut, I bring both tethers up as high as I can, hang from the main tether, un-girth-hitch the foot tether from the tree and re-girth-hitch it above the branch. Now this becomes my new main tether. I unhook the other main tether (still under the branch) and move it above the branch. It has now become my foot tether. This is why the two tethers are identical - they switch roles when I have to navigate around a branch. This way, I am never unhooked from a tether with my belay loop on my rock climbing harness.

I have had my foot slip off the tree while in the foot loop, but that's what the main tether is for - you just hang and regain your composure. Can be a little freaky, but go slow to avoid this. You can also double wrap the main tether before girth hitching - more secure on the tree. I don't think the main tether would ever really slide down the entire tree if you do it properly. You just loosen enough to wiggle the rope up/down the tree. It would catch the tree much faster than a lineman's belt, as the girth hitch always wants to tighten around the tree.

Mind you, I'm young and nimble and could easily climb these trees barehanded- but it might work for you if you're able-bodied.

It's just a modified version of this guy's method. -
I just don't like the wooden spreader bar in the foot loop. I find it less stable. My loop can dig into my foot if I have tennis shoes on, but I just suck it up - it's not too bad.

A video would have been much easier than writing all this.


I'm new to saddle hunting, but this method has been good to get started with. The marsh I've been hunting doesn't have good trees for this method, so I'm thinking of trying climbing sticks, but I've never used them so not sure what to expect. I'd think they can climb crooked and gnarly limbed trees better than the two rope method.
 

Here is an example of climbing with 2 tethers. I would connect the Top tether to a short bridge, bottom tether connected to single aider. Looks like the guy in this vid is just using 2 aiders and isn’t connected to the tree though.
 
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So I roughed out some stuff to try this with.

Top tether is how you would usually use a tether. Bottom tether has a triple crown knot which leaves two foot loops and one to use for a prussik.

I don't have a good tree at home to try it with so it will probably be a week or so before I can try it on a tree similar to what I actually would try to hunt from. I messed around with it a little, but it wasn't a good time. The base of the maple tree is very large and the bark was very rough so it was very hard to move the tethers and get them to set well.

I will be curious to see how it goes with a smaller diameter smooth bark tree, but I foresee some potential issues. One, it's pretty tough to stay close to the tree when you stand up. Your feet are against the trunk and you're naturally going to push yourself away as you stand up. I could pull myself closer using my usual tether, but I had to make a conscious effort not to grab the prussik knot. I also had to use one hand around the tree to keep myself relatively vertical to move the top tether, which made it harder.

I'm not writing it off yet as I'm expecting a better tree will be a lot easier and perhaps a short bridge to use while climbing would help, but so far, not sold on this as a viable option.

aa92d9895367de313ba0942b4a923e38.jpg


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