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Tether option?

Bwhana

Bwhana

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2017
Messages
2,290
Location
Hickory, NC
I was looking at my rappel rope (pic1) where I am using a PROPER scaffold knot to connect to a Petzl triangle for the girth hitch and had an idea. I have not seen anyone mention this before, or at least could not find it in a search, but why could you not use this knot on the tether instead of a figure 8 (not using the triangle, just rope). To use, just make the noose bigger and pass your tag end and attachment through as you would with the figure 8, then, when you sinch it down, the girth hitch will stay tight and in place better on the tree (pic2). It can still be loosened fairly easily to remove it when done hunting. I have only tested this on ground level for the first time today, but I see no issues so far. The knot is much cleaner and smaller than a figure 8. Anyone with better rope/climbing knowledge see any risks with this option? I only know what I know and looking for more experienced climbers to chime in and shut it down if it is not safe.
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Figure eights maintains rope strength reasonably well, gives you a relatively stable loop, is easy to see if you tied it right,and can be untied relatively easily after it's been loaded. This is why it's probably popular. You are taught this knot to tie into your harness when you are on the sharp end of the rope when rock climbing for these same reasons. It's also a relatively easy knot to tie. Since the scaffold knot isn't fixed, it could open up the loop, and I'm guessing with enough movement back and forth (rubbing against the tree) possibly open up the knot itself. IT might take days of moving back and forth, but I think it's possible.
 
What is your motivation for using a scaffold knot directly on the rope itself over using your triangle? Is it to keep your girth hitch from sliding down the tree when you induce slack?
 
heretic said:
What is your motivation for using a scaffold knot directly on the rope itself over using your triangle? Is it to keep your girth hitch from sliding down the tree when you induce slack?
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Cause he’s a self proclaimed weight Winnie I’m guessing....sorry John I had to.
 
Also looking for a fix to this issue. I have been testing my OpLux tether and any time I take weight off the line it slacks and slides down the tree several (6+) inches. I’ve heard to wrap it twice around the tree and haven’t tried that yet, but wouldn’t I have just been better off sticking with HTP or Predator if I’m going to need twice the rope? Or do those ropes have the same problem?
 
ffastfzr said:
Figure eights maintains rope strength reasonably well, gives you a relatively stable loop, is easy to see if you tied it right,and can be untied relatively easily after it's been loaded. This is why it's probably popular. You are taught this knot to tie into your harness when you are on the sharp end of the rope when rock climbing for these same reasons. It's also a relatively easy knot to tie. Since the scaffold knot isn't fixed, it could open up the loop, and I'm guessing with enough movement back and forth (rubbing against the tree) possibly open up the knot itself. IT might take days of moving back and forth, but I think it's possible.
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What’s the downside, you end up with the same size eye you had with a figure 8? I guess assuming you have enough tag end to not pull through the knot.
 
What I have been doing to keep my tether from sliding down the tree when there's some slack in the tether is this. I have a relatively large eye on the end. Before I put the tag end through the eye, I twist the eye so that it looks like an 8. I fold the top of the "8" over the bottom which forms a double loop. When I feed the tag end through and cinch it onto the tree, it stays put very well. And it's pretty easy to undo when you're ready to leave. Not sure if this is an original idea but it works for me.
 
Tr33_n1nj@ said:
Also looking for a fix to this issue. I have been testing my OpLux tether and any time I take weight off the line it slacks and slides down the tree several (6+) inches. I’ve heard to wrap it twice around the tree and haven’t tried that yet, but wouldn’t I have just been better off sticking with HTP or Predator if I’m going to need twice the rope? Or do those ropes have the same problem?
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Use a castration band to narrow the tether eye then it will not move or use something like what is on the JX3 tether which keeps it from sliding


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Squirrels said:
Cause he’s a self proclaimed weight Winnie I’m guessing....sorry John I had to.
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You nailed my number 1 reason! Saves the weight of the triangle.

Second was that it would stop potential sliding. I have used the castration bands for that on the figure eight, this was just a bonus for me.

I agree that the knot could work loose over a period of time, but even more than being a weight weenie, I am not a fan of heights, so I constantly monitor my gear and knots the whole time in the tree, so any movement will be noticed. I am just testing this now, not going to use it in the tree, yet. Just don't see much difference in risk of the knot being around the rope vs. trusting it on the triangle.
 
Bwhana said:
You nailed my number 1 reason! Saves the weight of the triangle.

Second was that it would stop potential sliding. I have used the castration bands for that on the figure eight, this was just a bonus for me.

I agree that the knot could work loose over a period of time, but even more than being a weight weenie, I am not a fan of heights, so I constantly monitor my gear and knots the whole time in the tree, so any movement will be noticed. I am just testing this now, not going to use it in the tree, yet. Just don't see much difference in risk of the knot being around the rope vs. trusting it on the triangle.
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I really don’t see why it won’t work
Keep us posted


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I've been wrapping once around the tree and before I put the tag end through I pull a small section of rope through big loop. Thus creating a smaller loop and pulling the tag end through the smaller loop. Seems to lock it on but easy to loosen and slide around the tree
 
I don’t see a problem with it .... you could tie a stopper knot in the end for peace of mind. This knot is also recommended for use on amsteel. So I’m sure it would be good in your application. Of course I would test it on the ground ......
 
Harleycharlie said:
I don’t see a problem with it .... you could tie a stopper knot in the end for peace of mind. This knot is also recommended for use on amsteel. So I’m sure it would be good in your application. Of course I would test it on the ground ......
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Everywhere I've read it is NOT recommended to knot dyneema/amsteel. Can you post where you've found that recommendation?
 
I’m running single poachers/fisherman’s/scaffold on my tether. I’d recommend a nice tag (which you have) that knot slips initially but doesn’t budge once tight from my limited experience.

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Can you give a link to the website where that screenshot is from? Amsteels website still specifically recommends not using knots. I would be leary of taking the recomey of a 3rd party over the manufacturer, especially when the 3rd party just refers to the generic material and not the specific brand.
 
GCTerpfan said:
Can you give a link to the website where that screenshot is from?
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Looks like it’s this site here:
https://www.animatedknots.com/poachers-knot

Like you said I’d also a bit hesitant as I’ve seen Amsteel wiggle out and almost no load

To the OP, the only issue I see is rope on rope friction especially attaching the rope to itself, and not using a friction hitch it will move almost constantly as the rope settles. It may be safe the first dozen times but you will get premature wear on you line (your lifeline nonetheless!)
Also you mentioned that you know the knot may come undone but you always check your setup, great but Murphy’s law states the if it can come loose the ONE time you your life you don’t, that’s when it will happen.

My conclusion? Why not buy a lighter ‘biner?


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