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Tethrd ESS Sliding Inner Panel

TimbeHuntin

TimbeHuntin

New Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2020
Messages
34
Location
Central VA
I bought an ESS from the classifieds as my first saddle and put it through its paces for the first time yesterday. I absolutely loved it in the tree- super comfortable and I wish I’d have hopped on the saddle train sooner.
My issue comes when walking with the saddle. When the belt is tightened down snug, it pulls on the outer panel (the one with the lineman loops), directly allowing slack in the inner panel. Eventually it works itself loose, dropping down behind my knees. I hook the plastic clips in as demonstrated by [mention]valerio024 [/mention] ‘s YouTube video (which are a pain to deal with in the dark- especially since I haven’t stitched them in place as he suggests). And it still managed to slide loose after a bit of walking.
Is there a better strap alignment method for two panel saddles than the cheap plastic clips? Do I just need to wear the saddle way up above my hips for walking?
I’m asking before I stitch in the plastic clips in case there’s a better option.



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I was involved with testing and critiquing the Recon which, both the ESS and the Recon are essentially Anderson slings.
With the Recon, we tried having the belt attached to the strap the way the ESS is. We found that it does not work as well as having the belt attach (and pull) on the plates (or the D rings in the case of the ESS).
When the belt pulls on the plates, then it pulls equally on all sections/straps.
IMO, even the Recon webbing belt misses the mark slightly. I much prefer a bungee belt. Always stays tight when needed, it self adjusts when hanging, and it never sags when unweighted while tethered.
 
Apex7 said:
Put it in your pack until you get to your tree and then put it on .
Click to expand...
I'll give an opposing opinion on carrying saddles and putting them on at the tree.
Just my opinion based on 50 seasons deer hunting and over 40 seasons climbing trees (Art, I realize that you are quite experienced too).
When a hunter arrives at his tree, its important to be as efficient as safely possible to get up the tree quickly. Goofing around with gear on the ground is inviting being seen by deer.
Also, when the saddle is put on at the truck you KNOW that everything is in order...no forgotten accessories, no twisted straps or gizmos to mess with in the dark at the base of the tree.
When talking about modern design saddles and slings that are so light and user friendly, I just don't understand the concept of carrying it in the pack.
But to each his own. If its working for ya.....

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Continuous loop of shock cord tied with overhand knot Thread a barrel stop on both strands, pull up to knot. Loop around one strap of both panels and pull stop and knot through loop(girth hitch). Cinch stop down tight. Remove at tree. Curse that professional saddle makers missed such an obvious flaw.
 
kyler1945 said:
Continuous loop of shock cord tied with overhand knot Thread a barrel stop on both strands, pull up to knot. Loop around one strap of both panels and pull stop and knot through loop(girth hitch). Cinch stop down tight. Remove at tree. Curse that professional saddle makers missed such an obvious flaw.
Click to expand...
Bungee belt? Who wouldda ever thunk of that? Lol.

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kyler1945 said:
exactly!

so many uses. I actually have some 3/16” shock cord that’s super heavy duty. I can’t find any hardware to stop it. Need some more info on your zip tie method.
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I will type about the zip ties a little later when I have time.
For shock cord, go to SgtKnots web site and get the marine grade shock cord. The stuff is awesome...very high quality. Never loses its stretch.
I see that Sgt also has dyneema shock cord. I need to try some of that.
 
What diameter for the shock cord?

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kyler1945 said:
exactly!

so many uses. I actually have some 3/16” shock cord that’s super heavy duty. I can’t find any hardware to stop it. Need some more info on your zip tie method.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the long post but this takes a bit to fully explain.
Zip ties make the best cord locks for bungee cord. I think the smallest zip ties work the best because they bit into the cord better than a large zip tie.
There are a few ways to rig zip ties on shock cord. I f you zip them tight tight, they form a rock solid end stopper or non-adjustable continuous loop.
But if you zip them just tight enough they become an adjustable stopper. Click the zip click-by-click until you determine just how tight it should be.

How it works...
When the zip tie is in a section of shock cord that is relaxed (not stretched) the diameter of the cord is at it's greatest and the zip locks tight on the cord. But if you stretch the cord, then the cord's diameter decreases and will allow the zip tie to be slid to where ever it's needed. This can be used on a continuous loop so the loop size can be changed, or it can be used to adjust where on the cord you want a hook. I use 3/16" chock cord and those little wire/spring hooks. Feed the cord thru the center of the spring/hook and place a medium tight zip tie on the hook-side of the spring hook. Tighten the zip click by click and test how well it holds when you push on the hook. if it slips, the click the zip one or two more clicks and test it again. When it holds you know it's tight enough but then you need to test that it's not too tight. Grab the tag end of the cord and stretch it and the hook/zip should slide where you want it. Release the stretch and the hoof should lock in place.

As for a belt application, there are a few different ways to anchor it to a sling, but IMO it should attach on the plates (Recon) or D rings (ESS). Pulling on the plates/D rings will pull on all straps simultaneously. Having the bungee belt adjustable allows it to be fully tightened (for walking with dump pouch weight attached) or adjusted 1/2 loose when tethered, which will allow the sling to "open up" when under weight, but it won't slip down when you unweight the tether (readjusting your position etc).
One detail about this...I feel this works best when the bungee pulls from the center of the plates/D rings. Just hooking the bungee to the top or bottom of the hardware pulls the plates/D rings on an angle. It will kinda work, but an even, center pull on the hardware is much better.
There are alternative ways to hold the bottom section from sagging while walking but this methods don't address sling sag when unweighted under tether. The bungee belt address every issue of a loose sling.

Full disclosure:
I have not tested the bungee in any type of fall situation. But I don't see how the bungee would be any less safe that a loosened or unbuckled belt such as how many guys employ the belt when tethered. With use of leg straps, there should be no issues with the bungee in the event of a slip or "fall".
 
Put a carabiner on the bottom belts, in between the support straps. Easy to get off once your tethered in.

Put the saddle in your pack when your on the ground.
 
Might not be the same exact application, but this video has an explanation of zip ties and shock cord that made things a bit easier for me to visualize:
 
five said:
Might not be the same exact application, but this video has an explanation of zip ties and shock cord that made things a bit easier for me to visualize:
Click to expand...
I changed it up slightly since I made that video. I'm no using metal for my yokes. I'm using the tri slides with a home stitched piece of webbing to attach the belt.
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It only takes about 30 seconds or so to put it on. I carry mine in my saddle bags on my e-bike so I never can forget it. But that's me and I also get to my tree early enough that I take my time getting setup. I know every one doesn't use a bike but years ago I use to put it on at the truck but I didn't like it so I started putting it in my pack and I liked that much better than walking in with it on.
 
Apex7 said:
It only takes about 30 seconds or so to put it on. I carry mine in my saddle bags on my e-bike so I never can forget it. But that's me and I also get to my tree early enough that I take my time getting setup. I know every one doesn't use a bike but years ago I use to put it on at the truck but I didn't like it so I started putting it in my pack and I liked that much better than walking in with it on.
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I respect that.

I like walking with mine on. No issues at all. I only bike a couple times a season, but I don't think I have an issue there either. With the panels overlapped up high and belt cinched tight it rides nicely.

It is the unweighting of the saddle with a loosened belt that bugs me. This was one of the few things that I didn't like about my JX3 also. I guess my Kite conditioned me to expect the saddle to stay put on my body when unweighted. Maybe I'm just a belted and leg looped single panel guy.
 
TNSTAAFL said:
I respect that.

I like walking with mine on. No issues at all. I only bike a couple times a season, but I don't think I have an issue there either. With the panels overlapped up high and belt cinched tight it rides nicely.

It is the unweighting of the saddle with a loosened belt that bugs me. This was one of the few things that I didn't like about my JX3 also. I guess my Kite conditioned me to expect the saddle to stay put on my body when unweighted. Maybe I'm just a belted and leg looped single panel guy.
Click to expand...
A bungee will keep the saddle in place when the saddle is unweighted.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
A bungee will keep the saddle in place when the saddle is unweighted.
Click to expand...
I've been following your posts on that and have it on my to try list.

Saw your new version with the webbing ends. Wish there was a less DIY'y way to go about this.
 
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