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Treebolts revisited

rabidd099 said:
NICE! I like that drill. One of the ways you can keep your self from accidentally clinking the metal ends on the cartridge holder is to alternate the bolts, this way the bare metal end is surrounded by dipped ends. Probably won't work on the EDC pouch cause of the bolt heads but you could try. The 3/4 conduit does look oversized compared to the original, until you finish and dip it, then it is just a quiet little beast.

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Don’t know why I didn’t think alternating the bolts. I had them staggered in the picture because if I wasn’t careful the threads would touch when I pulled them out. Problem solved. Thanks.
 
@Nutterbuster yes that’s the one. I will include links going forward. In hindsight I remember you had your bolts alternating in the pictures you posted. Just slipped my mind. Last night I stood there in my garage looking at the bolts in the holder next to my climbing sticks. IMO it’s a no brainer. I want to thank you guys for all the great info in this post. Love this climbing method.
 
Sipsey said:
To find them in the dark simply break off some dried sticks and leave them protruding from each hole. Years ago I had fixed a great spot along a river. Got up super early, used a conoe and paddled downstream, followed my tack trail to the tree, and wound up waiting till daylight to see the holes. That's when I started placing sticks in them.
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I've been doing that for years. The only downside is they need replaced each time if you take them out. Taks are nice because they are permanent. I dont like the reflective taks for that because they are too visible to other hunters. And put taks below the hole not above so you don't accidentally knock them out when you step on the bolt.
I'm old school, though...I like the little stick method. I prefer a cut live stick, though. Dead ones are brittle and squirrels or coons can break them off. Live cut are flexible.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
I've been doing that for years. The only downside is they need replaced each time if you take them out. Taks are nice because they are permanent. I dont like the reflective taks for that because they are too visible to other hunters. And put taks below the hole not above so you don't accidentally knock them out when you step on the bolt.
I'm old school, though...I like the little stick method. I prefer a cut live stick, though. Dead ones are brittle and squirrels or coons can break them off. Live cut are flexible.
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Up in the great White north, those sticks get frozen into the holes when we get a storm with a little freezing rain or snow. I scuff the bark of the tree over the bolt holes with my hand saw. It shows up as lighter color in the early season and quickly turns darker, but the scuff mark remains making it easy to pick out against the texture of the bark (as long as you are close) I always know where the hole should be but sometimes I can be looking right at it (especially if I'm off at an angle, which I usually am) and still not see it.


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Bruce G said:
Really happy with how this came out. I’ll clean it up then dip it. I really like the 3/4. I decided to keep it at just over 6 inches. I can always make one longer if I decide I need the added torque. This will hold up much better than the original.
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What are you using as a bit holder for the auger. Great design!
 
I just bought a pack of drill bits from menards and used the 3/8 inch one for all my pre sets this year, worked awesome.

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So, how well does the EZ KUT drill bore into something like a rock hard osage tree? We don't have many around here but some of our Iowa farms are loaded with them. They make some really nice stand trees but, man, screwing a step into one is murder. Sure would be nice to use bolts to climb them.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
So, how well does the EZ KUT drill bore into something like a rock hard osage tree? We don't have many around here but some of our Iowa farms are loaded with them. They make some really nice stand trees but, man, screwing a step into one is murder. Sure would be nice to use bolts to climb them.
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Dont have any osage here, but it works great in a hop-hornbeam (Ironwood) up north. without issue, which is hard as...well iron.
 
Vtbow said:
Dont have any osage here, but it works great in a hop-hornbeam (Ironwood) up north. without issue, which is hard as...well iron.
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Thanks. There is another species of tree in Iowa that is about impossible to screw in even high quality steps like EZ Climb. We are due to draw next year...cant wait to take my whole saddle rig.
Last trip out there, I was using an old Trophy Line. Could never get comfortable in that thing.

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Allegheny Tom said:
Thanks. There is another species of tree in Iowa that is about impossible to screw in even high quality steps like EZ Climb. We are due to draw next year...cant wait to take my whole saddle rig.
Last trip out there, I was using an old Trophy Line. Could never get comfortable in that thing.

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yeah, drill is definietly easier than ezy's. Its removing the hard wood instead of compressing the fibers. this makes a huge difference on these rock hard trees.
 
I drilled a hole as close to the ground as I could today and tested each of my 14 carbon bolts. I bounced on the end of them pretty good for about 5-10 seconds then rotated them 180 degress and bounced on them some more. I could see them flex, but they were solid. I don't know if there is a cumulative effect with their use that would cause them to fail under normal use, but when I stand on them as one would climbing with the foot near the tree, there is no apparent flex and they feel really solid.
 
Sipsey said:
I have used a spare 3/8” ratchet with the quick release feature. Then used a socket designed to hold a bit. Drilled the end of ratchet for a wooden handle. Most everyone has spare ratchets laying around. It’s a fairly quick solution, though not as light as the original. There are even “composite “ ratchets with an offset for clearance for less than $20.00.
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This seems like an idea @Sipsey. I'd want to explore it and hear more about. Any photos/video of this cleaver idea? Is the socket adapter something like the one in the link below. One concern I'd have is the bit falling out the socket but I suppose it could be epoxied in the socket. Prob something I'm completely missing but why the need for a handle on the ratchet? Why not "ratchet" the bit to drill?

https://www.amazon.com/Bit-Adapter-Ratchet-Driver-Quick-Change/dp/B004DYKIH4
 
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