Whats your preferred tuning method?

[Halfstep]

[QUOTE="Black Titan, post: 824445, member: 32227"

I've read about the spine testers, and have considered looking into it, but they're pricey! I've seen where some will put a divot in their press arms and squeeze the arrow that way with a field tip in each end. I may try that and compare my findings.

BT

I bought one used on here at significantly less cost. It also doubles as a spinner.
[/QUOTE]

I have a spine tester. They come in handy at times especially on cheaper arrows. Good arrows usually have pretty consistent spine around the diameter of the shaft and from shaft to shaft.

The spine of a carbon arrow is not linear to the length of the shaft like aluminum arrows. The spine of a carbon arrow spirals down the shaft so this can make spine aligning more difficult. Cutting carbon shafts will change the dynamic spine location so any spine alignment needs to be done after the arrows are cut. Even after spine aligning, the arrows need to be group checked and if there are flyers, they need to ne nocked tuned to tighten up the groups.

Firenock makes a nice spine alignment tool called PAPS that uses a vibrating module to find the dynamic spine location. I haven't used one but do believe it would do a good job. https://firenock.com/paps/

 

[Camelcluch]

Tuning is an overall look to me. I’m not that good or better than most. I look at the end result more than a single perfect ingredient. I’m blessed to be able to shoot every day and accept the good, the bad and the process. My bare shaft may not be perfect at the end but my bow shoots. It shoots better than me, I just have to get out of the way.

 

[woodsdog2]

Tuning is an overall look to me. I’m not that good or better than most. I look at the end result more than a single perfect ingredient. I’m blessed to be able to shoot every day and accept the good, the bad and the process. My bare shaft may not be perfect at the end but my bow shoots. It shoots better than me, I just have to get out of the way.

This is so true! ^^^ Bernie Pellerite was/is an Archery coach and he wrote a book in the late 90’s entitled “Winning Form” or something like that. Anyway, as you can guess, at the end of the day, once a bow is tuned properly, it’s us who need the constant upgrades and practice not the bow. Too many of us get caught up in the gear….. get it, do too. But we could all do better by getting some good coaching lessons and concentrate on our form flaws to increase our down range accuracy and ultimately boost our confidence.

 

[OSUTodd]

I do pretty much the same as the OP, but I also try varying the insert/point weight. Sometimes adding or subtracting a bit fixes the paper tune problem without adjusting anything on the bow.

 

[Halfstep]

Tuning is an overall look to me. I’m not that good or better than most. I look at the end result more than a single perfect ingredient. I’m blessed to be able to shoot every day and accept the good, the bad and the process. My bare shaft may not be perfect at the end but my bow shoots. It shoots better than me, I just have to get out of the way.

Tuning is very subjective meaning the better one can shoot, the better the tune they can achieve. One can't tune better than they can shoot. When one shoots with proper form and proper draw length, they have a good foundation that makes tuning a lot easier with consistent results. A lot of guys don't paper tune because they can't achieve good results. So, they use some different tuning method that hides their bad shooting habits so they can feel as if their bow is tuned. Guys have the mindset that their bow is either tuned or not tuned. But, in reality a bow's tune can fall anywhere between a poor tune to a great tune depending on the shooter's skills, knowledge and ability.

So, you are right. Tuning is a process that changes over time as the shooter changes, good or bad.

 

[Camelcluch]

I didn’t mention it before but I do all my tuning over time. I never do all this in one day. Again, it’s a process and can take several weeks for me to get the right flight. I just spent yesterday getting windage dialed in. Shooting at 80 until I had acceptable hits. It took a while but I’m very confident in good shots and my bad shots are minimal.
I think over all people will do better if they have confidence in the equipment’s ability. I believe my set up hits what I point it at. This makes shooting easier.

 

[10essee]

Nock tune up close to get them all the same doesn’t even have to be a bullet just all the same, will fix that at distance. Then fletch up 9 and keep 3 bare. Then straight to 20 and beyond with 3 random fletch and one of the bare. Keep backing as far as form will allow. Broadhead fletch bare all together

 

[Ehunter]

Little late to the conversation, but.....The guys at Victory Arrows told me to always take an inch off the nock end, then the rest off the point end when cutting arrows. From there, I bareshaft to bullet holes at 6-9 feet. Moving nocks as needed, etc. Fletch all of them up, then start with the old school French Tuning. Usually use 1 inch tape rather than a piece of string though. Eyes aren't what they used to be. lol Get it well tuned back to 40-50 yards, then screw on the broad head of choice. Personally use fixed blades (1 1/4- 1 1/2 in.) Make a few small adjustments to get BH and FP hitting in the same spot, then call it good. Have used about every tuning method out there, and French Tuning seems to give me the most "forgiving" tune there is. Got a lot of back problems, so not always standing perfectly straight up, etc. Still hits where I aim though.