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Whats your secret to broadhead sharpening

Micneador

Micneador

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2020
Messages
884
Location
Sapulpa, Ok
So for the life of me I cannot get a head (single or double bevel) hair popping sharp. I've watched video after video on sharpening, followed to a T and can't get it right. I can get em sharp, but not shaving sharp. While messing with the samurai 125 grain heads the other night I got one side shaving sharp but I'm not sure how honestly. I didn't do anything differently than normal.
Currently have a diamond plate set, stay sharp guide and cereal box card with stopping compound.
 
The very first thing to do is make absolutely sure you have established a burr on the opposite side of the blade from where you are sharpening. A burr is a little roll of metal that curls over the edge. You should be able to feel it with your finger if you rub your finger perpendicular to the edge on the opposite side. Be careful. The burr should be formed in the early stages of sharpening, and it will follow through until the final stage. It just gets successively finer. On single bevels I set the initial bevel with 80 grit and work down to 2000 at the end. Usually it is 80, 120, 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1400, 2000 then to the glass.

At the end of the process, the best thing I have found to get a hair popping razors edge is the top edge of a glass car door window. That curved glass edge will make them insanely sharp. It works like a fine ceramic rod. Stropping across denim blue jeans pants leg also works but be very careful if your leg happens to be in the pants at the time.
 
NMSbowhunter said:
At the end of the process, the best thing I have found to get a hair popping razors edge is the top edge of a glass car door window. That curved glass edge will make them insanely sharp. It works like a fine ceramic rod.
Click to expand...

Im gonna need a video. I’ve been rubbing my broadheads on my car window and all it’s doing is scratching it up real bad. What am I doing wrong???
Just kidding I’m not really doing that, but definitely going to need some more info on the car window sharpening method.
 
I was mediocre at best when it came to sharpening stuff. For years, I shot Eclipse broad heads that came unsharpened out of the box. They were horrible for me to sharpen. I finally switched to Samurai heads which come very sharp out of the box. I was convinced that they were about as good as it could get. But all fixed blade heads need regular touching up to maintain an ethical edge so I bit the bullet and bought this KME kit. I couldn't be happier with it. It's made me realize that even "pre sharpened" heads leave a bit to be desired. This jig will take your edge to a crazy sharp level.
www.grizzlystik.com

GrizzlyStik sharpening kit from KME Sharpeners

NEW GrizzlyStik sharpening kit from KME Sharpeners!This is a must have kit for every bowhunter using cut on contact broadheads.Available only through GrizzlyStik.comWe have found that the KME sharpening system is the best way to sharpen all your cut on contact broadheads, AND all your hunting...
www.grizzlystik.com www.grizzlystik.com

Coating the bevel with a sharpie is really helpful towards keeping a consistent angle.
And sharpening in good light is important. I prefer direct, bright sunlight because it will show any flaws in the edge. If you can see the slightest "shine" on the edge (the edge, not the bevel) then it's not as sharp as it can be.
I also like to look at the final edge with a high quality magnifying glass.
 
When u color the bevel with a sharpie and using the staysharp are u removing all the black? If the guide and broadheads are at different angles u fighting a loosing battle.

First time sharpening a knife or broadhead with a jig/fixture normally very time consuming especially if hard steel. Keep working till the bevel on the broadhead has been reprofiled to the angle of ur jig/fixture. Might time hours or might take 5 minutes depending on how far off the angles are off. Once u have achieved the correct angle between fixture and blade sharpening in the future takes no time. 1 or 2 passes of a course grit and a couple high grit passes and u good. Strop can be the car window, cardboard, leather...I got a leather work apron from harbor freight for cheap that I use to strop and some cheapo Ryobi polishing compound I seen at the depot....those samurai broadheads shouldnt be too difficult with the nice straight edges...to me it sounds like u still getting a compound bevel and need to spend more time on the course grit removing the factory bevel angle and reshaping to match the staysharp fixture....
 
I should have mentioned I use the KME broadhead fixture. Match the factory bevel as best you can so you don't have to spend hours recontouring the bevel. Use a marker to color the bevel and that will show you where you are removing material. You want even removal. Don't use a lot of pressure as that will change the bevel as you go. Let the sandpaper do its work.

I wish I had some way to post a video of the car window trick, but I'm not interested in setting up an account on Youtube or elsewhere. It's too much trouble. We really need a way to post videos directly to the site like pictures.
 
Weldabeast said:
When u color the bevel with a sharpie and using the staysharp are u removing all the black? If the guide and broadheads are at different angles u fighting a loosing battle.

First time sharpening a knife or broadhead with a jig/fixture normally very time consuming especially if hard steel. Keep working till the bevel on the broadhead has been reprofiled to the angle of ur jig/fixture. Might time hours or might take 5 minutes depending on how far off the angles are off. Once u have achieved the correct angle between fixture and blade sharpening in the future takes no time. 1 or 2 passes of a course grit and a couple high grit passes and u good. Strop can be the car window, cardboard, leather...I got a leather work apron from harbor freight for cheap that I use to strop and some cheapo Ryobi polishing compound I seen at the depot....those samurai broadheads shouldnt be too difficult with the nice straight edges...to me it sounds like u still getting a compound bevel and need to spend more time on the course grit removing the factory bevel angle and reshaping to match the staysharp fixture....
Click to expand...
I do remove pretty much all of the sharpie. There is sometimes a little ink stain remaining.
The thing that I really like about the KME jig is that its infinitely adjustable unlike a Lansky which has pre set angles.
After I coat with the sharpie, my 1st light pass or 2 is with a fine stone. Doing it with a fine will show the angle of the jig better without really removing any steel. Once I determine the exact angle, then I will use the appropriate stones based on how dull the edge is.

This is another reason why I like a straight edged broadhead much better than curved edges.
Learning about the clotting cascade was a big factor for me. I used to be happy with a rough, filed edge but I now realize that the wounds they create clot faster than wounds made with a polished edge.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
I was mediocre at best when it came to sharpening stuff. For years, I shot Eclipse broad heads that came unsharpened out of the box. They were horrible for me to sharpen. I finally switched to Samurai heads which come very sharp out of the box. I was convinced that they were about as good as it could get. But all fixed blade heads need regular touching up to maintain an ethical edge so I bit the bullet and bought this KME kit. I couldn't be happier with it. It's made me realize that even "pre sharpened" heads leave a bit to be desired. This jig will take your edge to a crazy sharp level.
www.grizzlystik.com

GrizzlyStik sharpening kit from KME Sharpeners

NEW GrizzlyStik sharpening kit from KME Sharpeners!This is a must have kit for every bowhunter using cut on contact broadheads.Available only through GrizzlyStik.comWe have found that the KME sharpening system is the best way to sharpen all your cut on contact broadheads, AND all your hunting...
www.grizzlystik.com www.grizzlystik.com

Coating the bevel with a sharpie is really helpful towards keeping a consistent angle.
And sharpening in good light is important. I prefer direct, bright sunlight because it will show any flaws in the edge. If you can see the slightest "shine" on the edge (the edge, not the bevel) then it's not as sharp as it can be.
I also like to look at the final edge with a high quality magnifying glass.
Click to expand...
Never thought of the sharpie. Good idea. I sharpened Zwickys, Rothaars and Wenzel Woodsman for years (dating myself). I used a bastard file then a good flat stone, a steel then a smooth side of leather belt for a strop. I'd repeat the process over and over.....may take a few hours. I actually enjoyed doing it as a labor of love. I never was great at it but got them sharp enough to kill a few. Lots of good advice from many on this site!
 
Fgirtyman said:
Never thought of the sharpie. Good idea. I sharpened Zwickys, Rothaars and Wenzel Woodsman for years (dating myself). I used a bastard file then a good flat stone, a steel then a smooth side of leather belt for a strop. I'd repeat the process over and over.....may take a few hours. I actually enjoyed doing it as a labor of love. I never was great at it but got them sharp enough to kill a few. Lots of good advice from many on this site!
Click to expand...
I learned of the idea in this video from Grizzlystik.
BTW, As best as I can figure, Grizzlystik is the only place that sells this version of a KME.
www.grizzlystik.com

GrizzlyStik sharpening kit from KME Sharpeners

NEW GrizzlyStik sharpening kit from KME Sharpeners!This is a must have kit for every bowhunter using cut on contact broadheads.Available only through GrizzlyStik.comWe have found that the KME sharpening system is the best way to sharpen all your cut on contact broadheads, AND all your hunting...
www.grizzlystik.com www.grizzlystik.com
 
My number 1 piece of advice; take your time and be patient. It takes longer than you think. Don’t rush it and don’t skip steps. There is no set number of strokes or time limit per side. It takes what it takes. Also remember that something like the Iron Will is very hard and diamond plates work better.
 
Learning what works through trial and error. Took far too long for me but got it now
 
I'm assuming you've watched the Stay Sharp videos. Are you using the strip of paper to check the bevel on the flat side, opposite the sharpening?
 
Micneador said:
So for the life of me I cannot get a head (single or double bevel) hair popping sharp. I've watched video after video on sharpening, followed to a T and can't get it right. I can get em sharp, but not shaving sharp. While messing with the samurai 125 grain heads the other night I got one side shaving sharp but I'm not sure how honestly. I didn't do anything differently than normal.
Currently have a diamond plate set, stay sharp guide and cereal box card with stopping compound.
Click to expand...
Hey man! Don't stress, sharpening is one of those skills that takes a bit of time to figure out. I have spent the past two years or so learning how to sharpen knives and just now feel confident (I might be a slow learner, but that's beside the point).

I have the exact same broadheads as you, and this is what I did:

I have an edge pro sharpening system, and I bought the scissor attachment that probably works the same as your jig. So after you're done sharpening, do you do any deburring or polishing? That was THE trick for me that took so long to figure out about sharpening. I got myself a leather strop, one side coated in white compound (around 1k grit), the other in green (around 2500), and do about 100 passes with each side. For each 100 passes I do, I end by doing 10-20 progressively lighter passes on the NON-bevel side with the edge facing away from me and pulling toward me to lightly straighten the burr out of the C shape and in-line with the cutting edge....this last step is critical...it's what makes your broadhead "shaving sharp." If you don't have a strop, I'd highly recommend getting one. They are fairly cheap (40-50 bucks will get you a very nice one). Compound is super cheap too (and probably not necessary). If you're tight on cash, a leather belt works well like what Fgirtyman said. If you got any questions, feel free to DM me. I'd even be willing to facetime or video call to show you if you want!

Good luck and happy hunting!
 
The post above nails it.
I use KME broadhead jaws, take your time and finish with a strop. The strop part was the hardest step for me to learn. The KME system is a no brainer.
 
Agree with most everyone else. Get a quality setup with set angles and diamond stones. If I need to re profile one that’s what I use. Otherwise I mostly use a stay sharp guide and sand paper
 
For single bevel broadheads I use a KME sharpener, piece of float glass, and sandpaper in 220, 400, 1000, 2000 and 3000 grits. A sharpie to mark the edge and see how it is sharpening works great. Gets the edge to a mirror shine.
 
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