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Whats your secret to broadhead sharpening

I tried to make a little pictorial....hope it helps. Same for broadheads also....this is a smiths sharpening fixture but roughly the same for all fixtures....
This is the first time sharpening this knife. Make note of how u clamp because once u reshape the bevel u want to clamp and resharpen the same every time....I used the thumb hole as reference so I can easy remember Screenshot_20220921-134640~2.pngScreenshot_20220921-134648~2.png

Color the bevel

Screenshot_20220921-134713~2.png

This fixture has 20, 25, 30, 35 degree bevel options....run the stone over the blade a handful of times and look at ur sharpie mark. Grinds on the front leading edge only and the angle is too steep....grinds back away from the leading cutting edge and angle too acute. Adjust the angle until u most closely match the factory....in this case the factory was between 20 and 25 but closer to 20 so I commit to 20 degrees....super fine really really sharp but won't be as durable....if the edge quality dulls too fast I can always change the profile later to 25.

See how it is only cutting the front leading edge?Screenshot_20220921-134757~3.png
 
It might take a while but recolor and course stone till u got a clean edgeScreenshot_20220921-134858~2.png

Swap to a higher grit and do it over again

Screenshot_20220921-134849~2.png
 
I try again with broadheads.....however I forgot to pic the tip sharpening procedure so I try and explain while we going along.

Tools needed: fixture, sand paper of various grits, screwdriver, sharpie, strop, lube, beerz and good lighting helps...file is optionalScreenshot_20221006-060015~2.png

Cutthroat factory bevel and burScreenshot_20221006-055958~2.png
Screenshot_20221006-060006~2.png

Get it chucked up in the fixture....pay attention and make that bevel lay flat as u canScreenshot_20221006-060023~2.png


First I knock off the bur with the file but the sandpaper works too. Lay the back flat against the abrasive surface and run the broadhead couple strokes and that bur will break and/or flip over to the bevel sideScreenshot_20221006-060035~2.pngScreenshot_20221006-060055~2.png

Color the bevel with sharpie and make 10 or 20 strokes on the lowest grit paper and look at the bevel and see if u need to adjust the way it is being help in the fixture...u want to be as close to factory as u can get. U can see the belly in this broadheadScreenshot_20221006-060104~2.png Screenshot_20221006-060159~2.png


Keep working the low grit....I stopped counting after 100 strokes cause I was gonna tell u guys how many it took to get the bevel reshaped but it was a bunch and took 8-10 minutes to accomplish

Look close and u see the tip and tail still aren't quite thereScreenshot_20221006-060207~3.png
 
Once the low grit is satisfactory u have a nice shiney bevel and a bur on the backside. Repeat the process, knock off bur, color bevel and 10 strokes....all the sharpie comes off real fast on the higher grits because u took the time with the low grits to get the bevel set to the fixture.Screenshot_20221006-060238~2.pngScreenshot_20221006-060247~2.png

Notice how the tailing edge isn't quite true/square/plumb whatever u wanna call it. I'm just gonna live with that and future sharpening will eventually get this bevel totally flat

Knock off the bur and repeat everything again with the higher grits....only takes 5-10 strokes for me once in the high grits so it goes much faster than initial low grit. I stop using the file to knock the bur off once I get into the higher grits and once in medium and high grits I'll start hitting the tanto tip. I'll cheat and just post the link to RF and he can explain it and save me the typing...sorry I forgot to document that part.Screenshot_20221006-060300~2.pngScreenshot_20221006-060327~2.png

Strop and check how easy it cuts paper....strop until u happy, remove from fixture and verify u cutting teeny tiny pigtails in paper, lube broadhead, and she's ready to go.

Screenshot_20221006-060334~2.png

 
Those were GREAT tutorials @Weldabeast! Thank you for putting in the time to show us. I'll be boxing up my broadheads and knives and mailing them so you can do a few more tutorials ;)
 
Red Beard said:
Those were GREAT tutorials @Weldabeast! Thank you for putting in the time to show us. I'll be boxing up my broadheads and knives and mailing them so you can do a few more tutorials ;)
Click to expand...
Yeah ...I'll use urs to show examples of how u can easily ruin a perfectly good broadhead and u can do a review on that companies return policy
 
I am a big fan of the stay sharp guides. They work great for me. The trick is to get the burr even. YouTube the innovative outdoorsman. He has great videos on how to use his guides. Link
 
Lots of good advice above.

I also use a KME and I only use heads with a straight cutting edge (currently using magnus)

I invested in a set of Shapton stones and wow they are sweet. They stay really flat and efficiently create a good burr. Also I like water stones for the lack of mess.

with the 15,000 grit stone (yes you read that right) I get a better more fine edge than final stroping on leather.
 
On the topic of sharp broadheads, and to avoid starting a new thread...

How are you guys protecting your edges (or your gear from your edges) while your broadheads are in storage off-season? I've got some 3-blades stuck in foam and my 2-blades with a layer of blue painter's tape. When I was making knives I was taught to wrap the blades with blue tape so I couldn't cut myself while shaping the handles and so went that route out of habit.
 
Iron_llama said:
On the topic of sharp broadheads, and to avoid starting a new thread...

How are you guys protecting your edges (or your gear from your edges) while your broadheads are in storage off-season? I've got some 3-blades stuck in foam and my 2-blades with a layer of blue painter's tape. When I was making knives I was taught to wrap the blades with blue tape so I couldn't cut myself while shaping the handles and so went that route out of habit.
Click to expand...
Packing tape works well.
 
Micneador said:
So for the life of me I cannot get a head (single or double bevel) hair popping sharp. I've watched video after video on sharpening, followed to a T and can't get it right. I can get em sharp, but not shaving sharp. While messing with the samurai 125 grain heads the other night I got one side shaving sharp but I'm not sure how honestly. I didn't do anything differently than normal.
Currently have a diamond plate set, stay sharp guide and cereal box card with stopping compound.
Click to expand...
I had the same problem until I found the Blade Sled. BladeSled.com to buy but they have a YouTube channel with demonstrations. I sharpened sim Slick Tricks and Exodus Swept razor sharp with just 400 grit. Rolls smooth. 2 angle choices on the one I got. Works great for me.

 
Micneador said:
So for the life of me I cannot get a head (single or double bevel) hair popping sharp. I've watched video after video on sharpening, followed to a T and can't get it right. I can get em sharp, but not shaving sharp. While messing with the samurai 125 grain heads the other night I got one side shaving sharp but I'm not sure how honestly. I didn't do anything differently than normal.
Currently have a diamond plate set, stay sharp guide and cereal box card with stopping compound.
Click to expand...
Maybe you have tough hair. Try looking at edge under a strong magnifier.
 
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