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Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?

The utube guy hunt primitive has data/info on tapered shafts showing big improvements in penetration with his wood-reed arrows and stone points.
Hes got an FOC video that's worth watching...interesting how it went the other end of the spectrum....gotta love our shiney slick steel.
 
The main reason I gravitate towards Ashby findings is because of the extent of HIS research. I use tapered shafts, but not because I've personally tested dozens of shaft styles on thousands of real world shots. None of us in this discussion have quantified our results to the extent Ashby has. Our positions are largely anectotal based on a relatively small sample. I'm relying on his tests and data and he says tapered shafts penetrate better than parallel shafts. Barreled shafts penetrate the worst.
Thank you
 
I love the experimental archeology aspect of Ryan Gill's work and what he is doing. It is very interesting.
 
I've found "arrow heads" all my life around here and only a few, what I used to call "bird points", are really what I now consider to be an actual stone point used on an arrow. I guess the rest are atlatl and spear points.
 
I've found "arrow heads" all my life around here and only a few, what I used to call "bird points", are really what I now consider to be an actual stone point used on an arrow. I guess the rest are atlatl and spear points.
Occasionally you'll hear collectors of arrowheads describe some heads as being "single bevel" design.
Seems like this stuff is not really new at all.
 
“The history of the bow and arrow is the history of mankind”
Fred Bear

Unsurprised that nothing is new. The real question was did the Neanderthals argue about FOC on a cave wall? Because then even the idea of arguing on a forum wouldn’t be new….
 
Occasionally you'll hear collectors of arrowheads describe some heads as being "single bevel" design.
Seems like this stuff is not really new at all.
No, single bevels have been around a long time. I wish I could remember where I saw it, but it was a great hypothesis about the origin. It may have been Ryan Gill. Basically, when you use a stone point it gets dull. You have to knap it back sharp. For a point on a haft, it is easier to knap one side of a point then turn it over 180 degrees and knap the other side. After repeated resharpening you get a single bevel.
 
No, single bevels have been around a long time. I wish I could remember where I saw it, but it was a great hypothesis about the origin. It may have been Ryan Gill. Basically, when you use a stone point it gets dull. You have to knap it back sharp. For a point on a haft, it is easier to knap one side of a point then turn it over 180 degrees and knap the other side. After repeated resharpening you get a single bevel.
Look at that channel I posted.....it covers what u are describing in detail
 
One thing that I've heard Ashby say during one podcast was how imperative it is for actual recovery of a fatally hit critter is to have an exit wound. He discovered that fact when he was guiding in Africa. He found that recovery rates went up when there was an exit hole. He wasn't exactly referring to the rate of lethality, he was referring to the actual recovery of the animal. We can all agree that our goal isn't to just kill the critter, we have to actually recover it.
I've said this in many of these discussions...On quartering away shots, we are actually aiming for the heavy bone of the far shoulder. Our arrow build should reflect the fact that we will hit heavy bone and also that our recovery rates will be higher if we breach that shoulder bone on the exit side.
 
So give me a list of good broad heads and a target weight and FOC for a 27" draw and 65lbs
 
So give me a list of good broad heads and a target weight and FOC for a 27" draw and 65lbs
This is the wrong way to go about this....my suggestion is this..with ur existing arrows verify it is bareshaft tuned. Look at ur existing arrows spine. If it's on the weaker end bite the bullets and get 1 of the test kits with a couple arrows of different spine, inserts, and field points. If u got like a 350spine already just get a field point test pack. Find what ur bow likes and the highest weight that has a trajectory u ok with. With all the different broadhead offerings u might find that u can use ur existing arrows and get the weight in just the broadhead. With that weight in mind...now u start broadhead shopping
 
So give me a list of good broad heads and a target weight and FOC for a 27" draw and 65lbs

 
Since 2013:

I’ve had a single arrow not make two holes on deer and hogs. It was a 485 grain arrow out of the hickory creek mini with a rage broadhead on it. I hit the deer high in the shoulder. My guess is scapula only, but likely in the thick front edge. I flat out missed, I ain’t blaming the setup.

I’ve shot something on the order of 30 animals. There was maybe 4-5 in the beginning of that stretch that were killed with 600ish grain arrows with nap spitfire. Since then, all with small cut on contact 2 blade or exodus heads. All with 510gr-585gr total arrow weight at speeds of 260-290fps. I’ve broken multiple humeruseseses, scapulas, spines, ribs, and leg bones. Most of the kills were with 510gr going 280fps.

Minimum of 250fps, single pin, out to 30 for deer for me. If I were less than 450gr to hit minimum 250fps(short draw folks), I’d move my effective range in to keep with one pin and arrow weight up. Cut on contact 2 blade head with 200gr total up front. Easy to buy tune and shoot.
 
I will shoot a deer at any angle inside of 15 yards with a 2 blade razor sharp head and minimum 500gr TAW, 200 up front, and 280fps speeds. And I’ll bet my bow I’m making two holes. I’m sure I’ll be proven wrong at some point. But I wouldn’t make the same bet on any less than 450 TAW/200/250
 
It's like trucks owners....some guys are fine stock and stock in awesome. But some guys get a lift and tires and it is awesome too but works better off-road...it can take u further and safely get u back and can some some pretty extreme stuff (kylers 550ish).....then there are the guys who want 1tons and giant v tread tires and triangulated 4link suspensions and 500hp engines.....is it needed...no....but is sure is fun....hahahaha
 
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