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Why Bolts over Screw ins?

weekender21 said:
Where are you buying the carbon bolts? Tape just for added grip?
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Rock west composites is where I bought the carbon rods. I think I had them cut them into 2 ft pieces for cheaper shipping and then I cut them to 6 inch lengths and beveled the insert ends with an arrow cutoff saw. The tape is just to make them quieter and for gripping. I put replective tape right at the point where they would be completed inserted into the hole so I can tell they are fully seated and if I drop one I can find it easier. I put reflective tape on almost everything, flashlights, pruners, drill, bolts, saws, arrows, etc.

Rod - Pultruded Unidirectional - 0.375" x 96 Inches 47311-L96.... this is from the order form. I ordered with some buddies and we ordered 5 rods to get a cheaper price.
 
Trueblue said:
Yep, me too
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These look very nice. That's only 10 dollars more than just the drill bit replacement assembly at EZ Kut. I'm positive Treehopper design will make drilling a lot easier too. Looks like you saddle hunters are bringing back the demand for good products! I have 3 Simmons drills plus a Simmons drill copy I had made by a machine shop but I'm still gonna buy one from Treehopper just to test out.
 
Rod in SC said:
These look very nice. That's only 10 dollars more than just the drill bit replacement assembly at EZ Kut. I'm positive Treehopper design will make drilling a lot easier too. Looks like you saddle hunters are bringing back the demand for good products! I have 3 Simmons drills plus a Simmons drill copy I had made by a machine shop but I'm still gonna buy one from Treehopper just to test out.
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I have one of the original treehopper drills, and it ROCKS!
 
What size hole does the treehopper drill. The ez kut uses 3/8 bolts so will the treehopper accept the same bolts
 
Gi
Rod in SC said:
These look very nice. That's only 10 dollars more than just the drill bit replacement assembly at EZ Kut. I'm positive Treehopper design will make drilling a lot easier too. Looks like you saddle hunters are bringing back the demand for good products! I have 3 Simmons drills plus a Simmons drill copy I had made by a machine shop but I'm still gonna buy one from Treehopper just to test out.
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Give us a review/comparison when you can.
 
huck72412 said:
I’ve been considering reflective tacks directly above or below each hole. I think @denots is putting a dot of green spray paint on each hole. Probably gonna try that as well.
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NON reflective tacks placed below each hole.
I don't want reflective tacks...too easy for others to locate my tree and snoop around. The tack only has to be visible to me when I'm climbing.
And put them below the holes...less chance of knocking it out with your boot.
 
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There are things that I think, and there are things that I know.


Things I know...
I know that bolts beat the crap out of screw-in steps.

I absolutely know that screw-in Ameristeps are the worst (insert profanity here) things made. They hands-down suck.

Cranford EZ Climb are pretty nice. I have a bunch of them, but I like bolts better.

Even Cranfords aren't always easy to start, or screw, or break free on some trees. And sometimes they are so tight to break free, that I have to change my body angle to get enough leverage. I hate that loud "snap" they make on some trees when breaking the free to unscrew.

I have had, and heard of, the pin breaking on Cranford steps. I was at ground level when mine broke. They aren't as bomb-proof as grade 8 bolts.

And sometimes Cranford lags actually need to be pried out of the body when folded. Kinda sucks to be half way up the tree and need to use the lag from one step to pry free the other lag so I can screw it in.

Pointy lags on Cranford, if not totally closed (and I have ones that won't totally close), will end up jabbing holes through packs and pockets.

Cranford stow okay but not nearly as small and quiet as bolts.

Cranford ain't cheap$$$

Bolts are cheap.

Bolts take slightly longer to install the 1st time but then are lightning fast to remove or replace afterward.

Yeah it takes a little more time to drill holes, but it also takes less effort. Some trees are damn tough to screw steps into. Hard trees drill easily.

Bolts pack so nicely. They take up a fraction of the pack space that steps take.

The best coating for grade 8 bolts is high quality heat shrink tube. the good stuff is more durable than rubber dip and is fast and neat to use. No need to dip, drip and wait to dry. Just cut the shrink tube to the right length, slip it on the bolt and heat it...done and ready to use in less than a minute.

I'll still keep my Cranford for certain applications (like soft trees) but I know bolts are now my go-to step method. I love them!
 
Should I be concerned about using bolts on trees that I might log in the future or want to preserve for wildlife value? Any long term tree health (or death) issues with repeated use? I’m sure this varies by tree species and specific bug species, just curious if anyone has experienced long term tree damage.

I have plenty of trees I’m not concerned about but don’t want to ruin a prized white oak that attracts deer every fall.


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weekender21 said:
Should I be concerned about using bolts on trees that I might log in the future or want to preserve for wildlife value? Any long term tree health (or death) issues with repeated use? I’m sure this varies by tree species and specific bug species, just curious if anyone has experienced long term tree damage.

I have plenty of trees I’m not concerned about but don’t want to ruin a prized white oak that attracts deer every fall.


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This has been asked in other threads. The comparison that gives me comfort is maple syrup tapping. That doesn't kill trees.
I think you need to compare bolts to screw in steps...if you would screw a step in, then why not a bolt?


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weekender21 said:
Should I be concerned about using bolts on trees that I might log in the future or want to preserve for wildlife value? Any long term tree health (or death) issues with repeated use? I’m sure this varies by tree species and specific bug species, just curious if anyone has experienced long term tree damage.

I have plenty of trees I’m not concerned about but don’t want to ruin a prized white oak that attracts deer every fall.

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If you leave the bolts in trees the timber value goes to zero. Always remove bolts, at least at the end of the season. We are stewards of the resources we've been given. Even if you own the timber and never plan on selling it, remember the trees will be here long after you're gone and it not responsible to leave land mines in the timber for those who will come after you.
 
Where to buy Grade 8 Allen head bolts and the high quality shrink wrap?

What made the old school woodpecker drill so much better than today’s options? Do you think the new TreeHopper will live up to the old Woodpecker drill?
 
Allegheny Tom said:
This has been asked in other threads. The comparison that gives me comfort is maple syrup tapping. That doesn't kill trees.
I think you need to compare bolts to screw in steps...if you would screw a step in, then why not a bolt?


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Click to expand...

I’ve never used a screw in step on our property. Just curious if anyone has first hand experience. I’ve never personally seen a tree die from screw in steps but it’s probably better to leave them (or bolts) in the tree vs. removing them and leaving a pathway for insects.


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weekender21 said:
I’ve never used a screw in step on our property. Just curious if anyone has first hand experience. I’ve never personally seen a tree die from screw in steps but it’s probably better to leave them (or bolts) in the tree vs. removing them and leaving a pathway for insects.


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I think the main issue is potential pest intrusion, vs. any damage from the holes in particular. For prized trees I have the possibly paranoid preference to preset SRT.
 
weekender21 said:
I’ve never used a screw in step on our property. Just curious if anyone has first hand experience. I’ve never personally seen a tree die from screw in steps but it’s probably better to leave them (or bolts) in the tree vs. removing them and leaving a pathway for insects.


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There has never been a single substantiated case of tree death by way of screw-in steps, bolts or spurs. The records date all the way back to the days of Noah. He was quoted in the book of Genesis as saying that he had to remove many many screw-in steps from the gopher wood trees that he used to build the ark.
 
Buckhorn70 said:
Where to buy Grade 8 Allen head bolts and the high quality shrink wrap?

What made the old school woodpecker drill so much better than today’s options? Do you think the new TreeHopper will live up to the old Woodpecker drill?
Click to expand...
I didn't buy allen heads. I wanted them, but I thought the price was higher than the return. I bought hex heads, and then bought HALF INCH shrink tube, instead of 3/8". This plan allowed me to take the bolt heads to my grinder and round off the heads...it was fast and easy. The underside of the heads actually had a slight score mark that I used as a line to grind to. It gave me a perfect 1/2" head that the shrink tube fit over, and I still had a little head on the bolt, which I like.
This is similar to the tube I used...3:1 shrink ratio and built in adhesive.
Can't seem to cut and paste the Amazon link, but the stuff came in 4', was 3:1 shrink, with adhesive, marine grade. I will try to post a link later when my wife is off the computer.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPJBYV3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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