Widening a sit drag

[Oldnotdead]

Ok so I thought I posted this ask, I know I typed it, but can't find it. Lets try again.
You guys post SO MUCH great info it can be over whelming ,but also hard to find what may already be here. Either this or I'm dense, may be both.
I want to make the sit drag "deeper" so has anyone made an inside liner that makes the sit drag deeper with webbing folded over and stitched around the edge anchored to the lower side of tether loops? If you understood that, was it still comfortable, give any better lower back and or thigh support?

 

[Peterk1234]

I know what you are saying, but if you are going to go to that much effort, then why not make one from scratch. Here are two versions I made. Both are about an inch and a half wider. My padded one is my favorite. It is stupid comfortable. Pete

 

[EricS]

There are a few double sit drags where someone sewed two together. When I first got into saddlehunting I ran two sit drags that were independent of each other. I think I remember someone cutting one down the middle and adding an elongated football type shape of fabric in the middle. I would run two with two different bridges or one with a back support strap. If I was good enough at sewing to add a piece of fabric I would just build the whole thing.

 

[GodsCountry]

I know what you are saying, but if you are going to go to that much effort, then why not make one from scratch. Here are two versions I made. Both are about an inch and a half wider. My padded one is my favorite. It is stupid comfortable. Pete
View attachment 10733

View attachment 10734
View attachment 10735

Do you take orders?

 

[benny a gregoire jr.]

How wide you thinking? This is my Sit Drag Mod

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk

 

[Oldnotdead]

Thanks guys and great designs.
You ask why and I'll be honest, I sew, been sewing for years. I wouldn't trust my life on my stitching...lol though I will be wearing a second harness that I'll be tied in with.
The insert or overlay as it were would still use the original materials strengths. It would allow for a bit higher belt to be added and leg straps if wanted. I dont worry about warmth because I don't deer hunt in warm temps. I love the bridge spacer.

 

[Oldnotdead]

Well guys I felt good enough to hook the sit drag up and hang around the living room a bit. Now I understand the pinch factor. So I now know the pattern for add on liner. I have also considered the bridge spacer to stop bunching. I see some use carbon and others rods. I don't want end wear that could damage the material in rubbing. I had the long thin Nylabones you buy your dog come to mind. Tough ,smooth,rounded ends. We'll see. I'm thinking I'll go with a cordura material. I just need to figure the correct webbing as a "piping" . Stiff but still pliable to handle a bit of a curve sewing.

 

[Oldnotdead]

The material for the sit drag mod arrived tiday. It is a 600 denier polyester old style army camo pattern ..as heavy or heavier than the sit drag material. So very pleased 60" wide by 3 ft and they sent it on a heavy cardboard tube and great box. 8.09 a yard with free shipping. It's enough to make a few saddles.
I'm thinking I will buy more as rain caps for my ground blinds to lengthen their life span and fix a couple of rips in the hub blind. Can hardly wait to get started.

 

[Peterk1234]

The msterial for the sit drag mod arrived tiday. It is a 600 denier polyester old style army camo pattern ..as heavy or heavier than the sit drag material. So very pleased 60" wide by 3 ft and they sent it on a heavy cardboard tube and great box. 8.09 a yard with free shipping. It's enough to make a few saddles.
I'm thinking I will buy more as rain caps for my ground blinds to lengthen their life span and fix a couple of rips in the hub blind. Can hardly wait to get started.

Keep us posted and don't forget the pictures

 

[ImThere]

Heck ya!
X2 on the pictures.

*safety statement to follow

Remember to test and ground level and back it up with a RC

Make sure you feel safe!




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[Oldnotdead]

Thanks will do..
So I'm thinking that our next evolutionary change will have to be narrower finger tips for portable device usage. "msterial"...lol You guys will see a lot of that, there's so many I can't catch them all !

 

[Oldnotdead]

Ok excuse the cleaning towel, it is thin and easy to fold into shape I invision with out bulk. This way I can get it to measurement before making a paper pattern. Give me your thoughts on this. I want to cut Two pieces partial sew them together with the strapping sandwched between. Top and bottom then slide the sit drag between the layers and finish sewing the edges while attaching straps to sit drag and sit drag to material. Then attach the tactical belt bottom edge catching sit drag top just along material. sewing the sit dag along top and bottom length wise. A molly strip on back and leg strap. Give me your thoughts. Remember for newbies like me. This is comfort based ONLY, NOT SAFTY. I will have a harness on and be attached by both.

 

[Oldnotdead]

Well Ive been a bit busy and STILL recovering from that flu bug, man it just wont give up! Anyways seeing thanks to another member I got a great deal on a ropeman I did a bit more work on the sit drag modification. I didn't get any thoughts on what my plan was so went ahead and measured out the pattern and cut the 2 pieces. Seeing I am recycler I decided on using the straps I cut off the sit drag.. Very heavy and difficult on the curve . So I pinned everything and then used embroidery needles and the heavy thread to secure the curve folds in the strap only. This has fattened it making it easier for sewing on the machine. I used a dbl thread over head locking hand stitch for this. Only bent one needle so not bad. The top will be a bit easier because I've left it more squared. Once I get the straps attached to the bottom piece, I'll sew the top piece on then secure the sit drag in the center. Then add the belts and molly webbing.
in the mean time I found Ottertex material at 6. 99 a yard for the tops of blinds and maybe a saddle to be sewn by either our shoe repair or seamstress. Using this design but wider with longer bridge straps.

 

[Peterk1234]

So are you sewing the material you have shaped and pinned to the sitdrag? And is the pic above how wide you are going to make it, or is this getting folded over? That is one big sitdrag, if I am looking at it correctly

Hurry up and finish this thing. I am dying to see the end result. Pete

P.S. I love the fact that some others like the idea of a custom sitdrag. Our local saddlepalooza is coming up soon and I cannot wait to compare what I have against the legit saddles. I have never sat in one.

 

[Oldnotdead]

Once I get the webbing sewn to the material and then the top piece lined up and edges sewn ( which will sandwich the webbing inbetween). I will place the sit drag in the middle to a comfortable position an finish the edges catching sit drag. The sit drag will only be as deep as the light non printed color you see ,minus one inch along the top that I will fold over the top webbing. I want a bit more on back and much more on upper thighs. Then when I add the belt I'll catch the sit drag length wise and run another line of stitching along bottom of sit drag. Handles will be folded and reinforced. Total depth is 15 " I have a one inch seam around the out side. My biggest concern is getting correct tension and making it through the folded webbing. Thats where I bent the embroidery needle. Oh and the tactical belt, thats pretty thick

 

[Oldnotdead]

So guys this has been a slow go. Time and setting up the machine. We have a small home and the grand kids have been visiting. I decided to hand stitch the webbing under the hem. I wanted the machine stitching to go easier. This has allowed me to use it unfinished to see how I like it. Wow what a difference from just the drag. SO much more comfortable. Low off the ground I feel very safe. When done I see no issue with feeling comfy at height.
So I'll be machine stitching everything I hand stitched, adding the belt and tabs for the leg straps. Then I will place the top material with stitched slits for the waist belt and the extra end loops to feed through. Those loops attach the sit drag to the safety harness at the linesman loops. They are like linesman loops. I'll then add the molly webbing along the back. Eegads! Hand stitching was tuff. Broke two needles and had to use pliers. Though I used double thread, staggered stitching,back stitched. Doesn't look pretty but it's pretty strong. Tha said I still want the lock machine stitching. I'm rather pleased thus far.

 

[EricS]

It’s hard to tell from the picture but that looks like a basic running stitch. I personally wouldn’t hang from anything that wasn’t lock stitched. It’s easy to do but time consuming with a speedy stitcher and is as strong as any machine.

 

[Oldnotdead]

This I know, thus the machine stitching I mentioned. As stated this was to make that easier. Though also because I may just take it in and have our shoe repair guy do it. This way he knows exactly what's to be done. As far as testing low I have been practicing out of it because I know how much back stitching,stop knots and the number of "blocks" I did. With double thread I had to do it in sections. It is not continuous. There is also 2 lines,of stitching along the lower leg webbing. When done the drag it's self will be stitched down both sides. I also use my harness when in it to get use to that. This is for back relief more then speed in setting up or long forest hikes to hunt. Turkey season has driven home the whole long sits thing for me. I'm about wrecked from it. BTW this is a wrap on spring turkey, with a bird coming in,figures

 

[Oldnotdead]

EricS I do welcome and appreciate you bringing home the safety concerns in proper stitching, that is of the upmost importance especially when back up safety equipment isn't being planned on. There are several excellent posts on here about the proper lock stitch to be seen on machines. Just setting up your machine to sew isn't going to cut it . Getting the proper tension upper to lower has to be there in order to ensure a proper stitch.
Thanks

 

[EricS]

I get it. I use the speedy stitcher. That’s why I don’t make saddles. It would take me 6-10 hours just to stitch what you have so far.