So, here are some notes after doing 7 climbs and hunts using this method since last Thursday.
The first morning it was pouring rain. I went up a 12" tree and I'll admit it wasn't a whole lot of fun with water running down the inside of my armpits every time I slid my tether up the tree. Once I got up 20+ feet and started getting set up, I realized I had dropped my bow rope on the way up, so I got to try this method twice in the rain. Bonus! Luckily the rain quit at daybreak.
Up until this point I had tried this method with my Tree Saddle, but I hunt out of a Guido's Web. I found the fork to be a bit of a PITA with this method. It kept getting caught on the foot rope as well as pinching it if I wasn't paying attention. I ended up removing the fork for the evening hunt and haven't put it back on. I also believe there is something different in the design of the GW that makes it more difficult to use this method than the TS, but I haven't had a chance to get back in the TS to try to figure this out.
I'll admit, when I tried my 2nd climb that evening on an 18" tree and couldn't get off the ground, I felt like this method had some real limitations, as in only trees 12" and under. I just couldn't slide my foot rope up high enough to in turn be able to slide my tether up any further. I bailed and went up a 10" tree instead, which was a breeze. I sat there in that tree trying to figure out if this climbing method was really just a flawed idea that only works in certain situations or if I was just missing something. My ropes hadn't completely dried from the morning rain and the temperature had dropped considerably, so when I went to get down after dark, the normally soft and limp ropes now were a little stiff and held an open shape when I loosened them up. Because of this my foot rope dropped a little farther than I had planned and my feet came off my board. No problem, I just tightened the rope around the tree again and stepped back onto the board.... wait a minute.... what if I did this while ascending a tree? Pretty much the same thing I have now seen posted by another hunter (I can't remember his name without looking it up, Dave Mullen maybe?). I guess the only difference is I use both feet with something rigid to stand on and use a prussic for adjustability.
The next morning I attacked a different 18-10" tree using this newfound twist. I'd like to say I shot up the tree like a squirrel, but in reality I was learning and tweaking as I went, so I was more of an inch worm than a squirrel. The next 4 climbs I continued to do it this way instead of keeping my feet on the board. Doing it this way allowed me to go up bigger trees as well as get the maximum bite per cycle. Basically, I would raise my tether and then kneel against the tree to get my feet off the board. I would then raise the foot rope right up to just below the tether and then walk my feet up the trunk of the tree until I was back on the board. At this point you can either get into a squatting position and stand straight up or pull yourself up with your arms using your tether. Actually, a combination is probably best, but it sounds like more work than it is.
One thing for sure is that with both the foot rope and tether taught and with you in a standing position, the spot where each rope goes around the tree has a huge influence on efficiency and ease of climb. Too long and you have to reach too far above your head, too short and you can't get enough bite per cycle. I found the tether should be at shoulder height and the foot rope should be a little below crotch level. On me this is a little less than 30" of distance, which is about how far up a tree I could go with each cycle of moving each rope.
A lot of people like to use strapping for there tethers, bridges, etc. It certainly reduces bulk and some weight, but it sure can make an awful noise if you scrape it against a tree when it is stretched tight. The only other real noise issue I had was a spot on my GW where the strap that runs under the aluminum seat was under tension and was pinching the camo fabric against the seat really hard whenever I leaned back into the seat. This created a really bad creaking noise that I know wouldn't happen with the TS. I think I may be able to alleviate this on the GW with a piece of plastic bag or thin plastic sheeting between the seat and fabric. In any event, the actual climbing method can be super quiet if you stay off those loose barked trees like hickory. Those types of trees are impossible to climb quietly with any method unless they are pre-set anyway.
The piece of wood I used was 18" oak which I sanded to remove any sharp edges. I ran a piece of strapping through 3/8" holes drilled at either end of the board and up to a prussic knot that attached to the foot rope, which created a 10" high triangular opening into which my feet went. Someone suggested a longer board, which I am going to try (24") although the 18" fits nicely in my backpack. A longer board would obviously provide more room for your feet on larger trees. Another note: I used the foot rope/board combo as my platform for EVERY sit and I was bowhunting. I'll admit, I never had the opportunity to take a shot, but I did try every shooting position I'm used to and I think this has some real potential.
As it stands now, I'm just as excited about this method as I was on day one, even if I had some doubts for a few moments. I wish I had stumbled onto this back in September when there was still some hunting to be done...
The first morning it was pouring rain. I went up a 12" tree and I'll admit it wasn't a whole lot of fun with water running down the inside of my armpits every time I slid my tether up the tree. Once I got up 20+ feet and started getting set up, I realized I had dropped my bow rope on the way up, so I got to try this method twice in the rain. Bonus! Luckily the rain quit at daybreak.
Up until this point I had tried this method with my Tree Saddle, but I hunt out of a Guido's Web. I found the fork to be a bit of a PITA with this method. It kept getting caught on the foot rope as well as pinching it if I wasn't paying attention. I ended up removing the fork for the evening hunt and haven't put it back on. I also believe there is something different in the design of the GW that makes it more difficult to use this method than the TS, but I haven't had a chance to get back in the TS to try to figure this out.
I'll admit, when I tried my 2nd climb that evening on an 18" tree and couldn't get off the ground, I felt like this method had some real limitations, as in only trees 12" and under. I just couldn't slide my foot rope up high enough to in turn be able to slide my tether up any further. I bailed and went up a 10" tree instead, which was a breeze. I sat there in that tree trying to figure out if this climbing method was really just a flawed idea that only works in certain situations or if I was just missing something. My ropes hadn't completely dried from the morning rain and the temperature had dropped considerably, so when I went to get down after dark, the normally soft and limp ropes now were a little stiff and held an open shape when I loosened them up. Because of this my foot rope dropped a little farther than I had planned and my feet came off my board. No problem, I just tightened the rope around the tree again and stepped back onto the board.... wait a minute.... what if I did this while ascending a tree? Pretty much the same thing I have now seen posted by another hunter (I can't remember his name without looking it up, Dave Mullen maybe?). I guess the only difference is I use both feet with something rigid to stand on and use a prussic for adjustability.
The next morning I attacked a different 18-10" tree using this newfound twist. I'd like to say I shot up the tree like a squirrel, but in reality I was learning and tweaking as I went, so I was more of an inch worm than a squirrel. The next 4 climbs I continued to do it this way instead of keeping my feet on the board. Doing it this way allowed me to go up bigger trees as well as get the maximum bite per cycle. Basically, I would raise my tether and then kneel against the tree to get my feet off the board. I would then raise the foot rope right up to just below the tether and then walk my feet up the trunk of the tree until I was back on the board. At this point you can either get into a squatting position and stand straight up or pull yourself up with your arms using your tether. Actually, a combination is probably best, but it sounds like more work than it is.
One thing for sure is that with both the foot rope and tether taught and with you in a standing position, the spot where each rope goes around the tree has a huge influence on efficiency and ease of climb. Too long and you have to reach too far above your head, too short and you can't get enough bite per cycle. I found the tether should be at shoulder height and the foot rope should be a little below crotch level. On me this is a little less than 30" of distance, which is about how far up a tree I could go with each cycle of moving each rope.
A lot of people like to use strapping for there tethers, bridges, etc. It certainly reduces bulk and some weight, but it sure can make an awful noise if you scrape it against a tree when it is stretched tight. The only other real noise issue I had was a spot on my GW where the strap that runs under the aluminum seat was under tension and was pinching the camo fabric against the seat really hard whenever I leaned back into the seat. This created a really bad creaking noise that I know wouldn't happen with the TS. I think I may be able to alleviate this on the GW with a piece of plastic bag or thin plastic sheeting between the seat and fabric. In any event, the actual climbing method can be super quiet if you stay off those loose barked trees like hickory. Those types of trees are impossible to climb quietly with any method unless they are pre-set anyway.
The piece of wood I used was 18" oak which I sanded to remove any sharp edges. I ran a piece of strapping through 3/8" holes drilled at either end of the board and up to a prussic knot that attached to the foot rope, which created a 10" high triangular opening into which my feet went. Someone suggested a longer board, which I am going to try (24") although the 18" fits nicely in my backpack. A longer board would obviously provide more room for your feet on larger trees. Another note: I used the foot rope/board combo as my platform for EVERY sit and I was bowhunting. I'll admit, I never had the opportunity to take a shot, but I did try every shooting position I'm used to and I think this has some real potential.
As it stands now, I'm just as excited about this method as I was on day one, even if I had some doubts for a few moments. I wish I had stumbled onto this back in September when there was still some hunting to be done...
