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Saddle Hunters! New Way to Climb!

fawnzy

Well-Known Member
Jul 4, 2014
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Whoa-eh!
Is that price in pesos? It doesn't look like any r&d has been done since 1961!
Maybe cutting down a climber will work.


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Maustypsu

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Oct 5, 2015
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fawnzy said:
Whoa-eh! Is that price in pesos?

No kidding! I was only able to order two at that price. I'd like to have more than one back up... but hey, 5 grand on climbing methods is all I can spend each season... :eek:
 

fawnzy

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Jul 4, 2014
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I wonder what patent protection there is. Would a different shape on the tree end, such as a cam, and the use of a cable be sufficient ?


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Erniepower

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Oct 25, 2015
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The great thing about patents is that if you are only building for personal use, they aren't protective. It's when you try to sell and make a profit that the protection kicks in.

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doc

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Jul 25, 2016
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As far as I can tell, those devices were invented and thus patented (or not) back in the 60's. You can make them commercially all you want... Patents only last 20 years. I think that these would be improved with LW climber straps. Still requires a tree with no branches though.

Doc
 

g2outdoors

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Oct 3, 2014
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It's in Hindi, but you get the idea.

[youtube]1iAo4bPMKWU[/youtube]
 

doc

New Member
Jul 25, 2016
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For what it is worth, here is the patent for the Swiss Tree Bicycle that was mentioned above.

https://www.google.ch/patents/US3078951

If someone handy with metal were interested, I suspect that you could create a reasonable makeshift version. Hunting from a saddle, you don't need both feet. All that is needed is one foot. If there were an easy way to get one foot set on the tree, then this device would enable any of the sit > move tether up the tree > stand > repeat methods that have been shown. It would be incredibly fast...

Just thinking out loud.
 
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fawnzy

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Jul 4, 2014
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g2outdoors said:
It's in Hindi, but you get the idea.

[youtube]1iAo4bPMKWU[/youtube]
Wow! Safety is paramount!



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fawnzy

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I think it's either biopic ate the Swiss or make small climbers as we know them but like the Swiss climber one would be a different height than the other. That way you could keep them level with each other at height and use them as a platform.


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fawnzy

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Jul 4, 2014
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Duplicate (for you Americans)


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Stoney_06

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Jul 21, 2016
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For what it is worth, here is the patent for the Swiss Tree Bicycle that was mentioned above.

https://www.google.ch/patents/US3078951

If someone handy with metal were interested, I suspect that you could create a reasonable makeshift version. Hunting from a saddle, you don't need both feet. All that is needed is one foot. If there were an easy way to get one foot set on the tree, then this device would enable any of the sit > move tether up the tree > stand > repeat methods that have been shown. It would be incredibly fast...

Just thinking out loud.
This has officially peaked my interest. Time to fire up the mill and welder.

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bubba g

Well-Known Member
Mar 15, 2016
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I think you might as well just use a lower platform from a climbing tree stand rather then use one of those tree bicycle contraptions...

You've probably all seen this video... I'm sure it is someone who posts in here...


edit... He uses the seat to a lone wolf hand climber.. or the XOP strike force like I have which is identical the to lone wolf for a lot less money... He is up, and down that tree in under 4:30 if you subtract the time it takes for him to walk over to the tree... The seat is very light, I'm sure you can get it over branches by taking it off, and reattaching it while hanging from your tether..


 
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Stoney_06

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I have an idea here guys. Bear with me. A single piece of appropriate strength square tubing about 18" in length (shorten to preference. I got big trees). About 6"off center of your tubing either way drill a 3/8" hole through. Then cut from one side to create a rounded notch. Rotate the tube 90° so the notch opening is facing you. To the outside edge of each notch, about .25" or more, drill a .25" hole through. Then take a piece of flat metal strap the same width as your tubing. Use a self taping screw and attach the strap to the inside side of the notch. Leave the screw lose enough you can rotate the strap over the opening of the notch. Rotate the strap and drill a .25" hole in it that lines up with the .25" hole in the tubing. Repeat the process 6" off center on the opposite end of the tubing so your notches with covers are 12" apart. The notch openings and covers are now the bottom of the bar. Go to the opposite side, the top. Drill small holes to accept pop rivets on the outer ends and wide enough in for your boots to fit between the holes. Cut yourself 4 nylon straps and rivet one with a washer in each hole. Setup the straps with whatever hardware you want so they can adjust and fit your boots. Finally add some skid tape for traction if you like.

Now go to to your local cable or fitting store. Get them to make you a .25" cable that's 36" in length (adjust to preference). Have them pressure fit those metal nubs on the ends AND THEN every 3" in along the cable for both ends. Do however many knobs as you want. Get two .25" safety retaining pins while you're there for later

To use, swing the covers so the notches are open. Flip your cable around the tree. Pull the cable firmly around the tree and place in the notches with the little knobs holding the cable length in the tube. Close the covers and lock with your safety retaining pins through that outside cover hole. Make sure the tubing step is above the cable. Place your feet through the loops, adjust bit straps, and start climbing like you would a climber tree stand. The tubing should push down on the cable pulling it tight. This way there's no weight being placed on those covers which should be facing down.

What do you think? Crazy? Do my instructions make sense? I realize I'm just spit balling here. Maybe I should draw up the design to help with the visual.

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redsquirrel

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Feb 19, 2014
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I have an idea here guys. Bear with me. A single piece of appropriate strength square tubing about 18" in length (shorten to preference. I got big trees). About 6"off center of your tubing either way drill a 3/8" hole through. Then cut from one side to create a rounded notch. Rotate the tube 90° so the notch opening is facing you. To the outside edge of each notch, about .25" or more, drill a .25" hole through. Then take a piece of flat metal strap the same width as your tubing. Use a self taping screw and attach the strap to the inside side of the notch. Leave the screw lose enough you can rotate the strap over the opening of the notch. Rotate the strap and drill a .25" hole in it that lines up with the .25" hole in the tubing. Repeat the process 6" off center on the opposite end of the tubing so your notches with covers are 12" apart. The notch openings and covers are now the bottom of the bar. Go to the opposite side, the top. Drill small holes to accept pop rivets on the outer ends and wide enough in for your boots to fit between the holes. Cut yourself 4 nylon straps and rivet one with a washer in each hole. Setup the straps with whatever hardware you want so they can adjust and fit your boots. Finally add some skid tape for traction if you like.

Now go to to your local cable or fitting store. Get them to make you a .25" cable that's 36" in length (adjust to preference). Have them pressure fit those metal nubs on the ends AND THEN every 3" in along the cable for both ends. Do however many knobs as you want. Get two .25" safety retaining pins while you're there for later

To use, swing the covers so the notches are open. Flip your cable around the tree. Pull the cable firmly around the tree and place in the notches with the little knobs holding the cable length in the tube. Close the covers and lock with your safety retaining pins through that outside cover hole. Make sure the tubing step is above the cable. Place your feet through the loops, adjust bit straps, and start climbing like you would a climber tree stand. The tubing should push down on the cable pulling it tight. This way there's no weight being placed on those covers which should be facing down.

What do you think? Crazy? Do my instructions make sense? I realize I'm just spit balling here. Maybe I should draw up the design to help with the visual.

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Can you sketch something up? I am having trouble visualizing.
 
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