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Need help sniffing fairy's dust

HuumanCreed

HuumanCreed

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2020
Messages
2,683
Location
Westminster Maryland
Ok, I cant stand the guy. His voice cut my soul every seconds that I watch his video. But under all that arrogant condesensing smug exterior, he make a strong argument backed by facts/experience/example. So I'm going to give it a try with some spare arrows, not buying any more arrows due to wife knowing how many arrows I already have.

Mathew Creed at 63lbs and 27DL

Carbon Express Mayhem Hunter DS 350 Spine currently at 32in 9.8GPI no insert

G5 Montec 100gr

So what would be the best way to make an 'adult' arrow?
What inserts systems should I get, how long should I cut arrow?
Can I stay with 100gr boardheads or is it better to go 125, 150, 200?

Would I be able to feel any difference practicing with heavier arrows? I am expecting slower speed and more trajectory due to lost of speed. But what else can I expect? Or is the only noticable different would be in actual hunting scenario?

Example of your arrow built is welcome.
 
Assuming the spine at your current arrow length can take the weight increase, knock out or unglue your old inserts and put in 100 grain Brass inserts from gold tip or whatever other brand you works with your arrows.
Then buy a couple 100, 125 field points (cheap and easily available) And figure out with one shoots best. Or just buy field tips in the same weight of your existing broad head and let er fly. If neither shoot well(And you are sure your bow is tuned) then you have no choice but to shorten your arrow length Or go up in spine! Pretty simple, good luck!
 
gcr0003 said:
Assuming the spine at your current arrow length can take the weight increase, knock out or unglue your old inserts and put in 100 grain Brass inserts from gold tip or whatever other brand you works with your arrows.
Then buy a couple 100, 125 field points (cheap and easily available) And figure out with one shoots best. Or just buy field tips in the same weight of your existing broad head and let er fly. If neither shoot well(And you are sure your bow is tuned) then you have no choice but to shorten your arrow length Or go up in spine! Pretty simple, good luck!
Click to expand...
I’d buy one 100 grain insert and 1 100 grain field point and ruin one arrow before doing or buying anything else.
 
I think the key take aways from becoming a duster is not about the weight as much as perfect arrow flight via super tuning arrows via insert tuning, nock tuning, and changing the spine dynamics via point weight...
 
You also have to make sure the inserts are the right outside diameter to fit in the inside diameter of the arrow shaft. If you like your broad heads you can add screw in weights to the back of the 100 grain brass inserts if you want to add more weight. You will not get quite the same foc bang for your buck as a heavier broad head but it will be close.
 
gcr0003 said:
Assuming the spine at your current arrow length can take the weight increase, knock out or unglue your old inserts and put in 100 grain Brass inserts from gold tip or whatever other brand you works with your arrows.
Then buy a couple 100, 125 field points (cheap and easily available) And figure out with one shoots best. Or just buy field tips in the same weight of your existing broad head and let er fly. If neither shoot well(And you are sure your bow is tuned) then you have no choice but to shorten your arrow length Or go up in spine! Pretty simple, good luck!
Click to expand...
Why not just start with at quick sanity check with some heavy field points in unmodified arrows? If he can't get those to fly well, then probably best to look into different arrows if going down this path.
Say something like https://www.3riversarchery.com/screw-in-heavy-weight-field-point-test-kit.html (understanding that these effectively lengthen arrows so if a result is borderline maybe still worth pursuing)
 
mattsteg said:
Why not just start with at quick sanity check with some heavy field points in unmodified arrows? If he can't get those to fly well, then probably best to look into different arrows if going down this path.
Say something like https://www.3riversarchery.com/screw-in-heavy-weight-field-point-test-kit.html (understanding that these effectively lengthen arrows so if a result is borderline maybe still worth pursuing)
Click to expand...
I’m right there with you. If I remember correctly OP was already on the list for the ranch fairy test kit and he couldn’t get them to fly right. I may be wrong but I thought I remembered trying to reach out to help.
 
rhagenw said:
I think the key take aways from becoming a duster is not about the weight as much as perfect arrow flight via super tuning arrows via insert tuning, nock tuning, and changing the spine dynamics via point weight...
Click to expand...

I would expand my search beyond Troy for super tuning advice. Hate to say it, but the guy misses some basic stuff (like how to properly tie a d-loop so that your arrow doesn't lift off a drop away rest).
 
raisins said:
I would expand my search beyond Troy for super tuning advice. Hate to say it, but the guy misses some basic stuff (like how to properly tie a d-loop so that your arrow doesn't lift off a drop away rest).
Click to expand...

yes I agree and so does ole RF he admits not being a bow tech he mentions in nearly all videos Make sure your bow is in spec
 
Screw in outserts. Add some weight. See how they fly. It might be to soft for the weight, so you might have to stiffen up.
Is the RF test kit still floating around? Some guys were doing the test and passing it on to the next guy.
 
Tuning those arrows will get tricky if you add a ton of weight. But it could work. Here’s what I recommend. Go to Walmart and get some hot melt for $3. Then go to the hardware store and get some 1/4 inch threaded rod for about $2. Cut the rod into chunks that weigh different weights, 50,75,100,125 whatever you want. Smear up some hot melt on the rod and insert and shove them in. This way you can test and easily remove and change weights. It works good for getting around buying expensive inserts too. That’s how all my arrows are
 
HuumanCreed said:
Ok, I cant stand the guy. His voice cut my soul every seconds that I watch his video. But under all that arrogant condesensing smug exterior, he make a strong argument backed by facts/experience/example. So I'm going to give it a try with some spare arrows, not buying any more arrows due to wife knowing how many arrows I already have.

Mathew Creed at 63lbs and 27DL

Carbon Express Mayhem Hunter DS 350 Spine currently at 32in 9.8GPI no insert

G5 Montec 100gr

So what would be the best way to make an 'adult' arrow?
What inserts systems should I get, how long should I cut arrow?
Can I stay with 100gr boardheads or is it better to go 125, 150, 200?

Would I be able to feel any difference practicing with heavier arrows? I am expecting slower speed and more trajectory due to lost of speed. But what else can I expect? Or is the only noticable different would be in actual hunting scenario?

Example of your arrow built is welcome.
Click to expand...
He's the kinda guy that you either love him or hate him. Personally I like the way he doesn't suger coat it. He is basically a regular guy who ran into penetration problems by following the crowd. He went looking for answers and found them in the Ashby Reports. (This is almost my EXACT story). I have talked to him several times. He has always been willing to help. What's important is that the content is valid and relatable. You have to have an open mind. Althoug alot of what he talks about is totally transferable to a lighter setup. IE Bad arrow flight is bad no matter what set up your shooting. I started my Ashby arrow set up pre- Ranch Fairy so I was pleased that someone was willing to preach against the choir and promote Ashby set ups.
The key for you will be to start with stiff shaft so you can load up the front. We have very different setups so mine won't work for you. My current arrow Kinetic 200's 31" long w/ a 29" draw 70lb Bowtech Experience. 75gr inserts and 225 grain Helix single bevel and a Ballistic collar. 700 grs ish. It's been a lethal set up. Very durable which is Ashby's 1st rule. Durability is a must no matter what set up you choose to shoot. Anyway, shoulders are now no problem. In fact I went thru the knuckle of a 150" 10 pt and out his belly he went 40 yds. My taxidermist didn't save it but said it was shattered. he thought I shot it with a rifle. That was with a similar arrow 605 grs ish. That was lighter setup but I do know that arrow worked very well. I beefed up this because I also hunt elk. Maximum Penetration on an elk is a priority.
You might be able to get those 340's to fly especially if you cut them down to 28-29". I don't think you'll be able to put 200gr out front. Someone w/ arrow spine program will know better. I have a feeling 300's will be better but you never know till you shoot them. I can tell you that if you follow his tuning advice and play around with different weights up front eventually you'll find a combo that flies. I bareshaft extensively. Bareshafts will tell you a lot. Keep playing till you find the right combination. I would defintely recommend single bevels. They really do a number on bone. I shoot them at all angles now. No more do I have to sit there and wait for them to give me that perfect angle. I've had many bucks come in range that never gave me the shot I needed. That 150" is perfect example. He wasn't going to give me another shot. I shot him full frontal. He now sits on my wall. Also I aim further forward than I used to. No more gut shots because I was afraid of the shoulder. Plus they all seem to die within sight.
That's short testimony of experience w/ Ashby / Ranch Fairy set up's. The Fairy Dust is a real thing. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me.
 
HuumanCreed said:
Ok, I cant stand the guy. His voice cut my soul every seconds that I watch his video. But under all that arrogant condesensing smug exterior, he make a strong argument backed by facts/experience/example. So I'm going to give it a try with some spare arrows, not buying any more arrows due to wife knowing how many arrows I already have.

Mathew Creed at 63lbs and 27DL

Carbon Express Mayhem Hunter DS 350 Spine currently at 32in 9.8GPI no insert

G5 Montec 100gr

So what would be the best way to make an 'adult' arrow?
What inserts systems should I get, how long should I cut arrow?
Can I stay with 100gr boardheads or is it better to go 125, 150, 200?

Would I be able to feel any difference practicing with heavier arrows? I am expecting slower speed and more trajectory due to lost of speed. But what else can I expect? Or is the only noticable different would be in actual hunting scenario?

Example of your arrow built is welcome.
Click to expand...
Would an aluminum arrow fit the movement?
 
OP, As others have said, you may have to go to 300s. I posted a heavy arrow test kit, search for it and get on the list. It’ll be a lot easier to just go with your inserts and get some varying weight field points that way you don’t have to dork around with swapping out inserts. Some folks end up with a lighter insert but heavier broadhead and vice versa. If you do consider an outsert to beef up your arrow tip
 
If your interested ive got a Valkyrie arrow setup to try. Cost ya shipping.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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