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Need help sniffing fairy's dust

You have to put all the factors in your favor. If you don't bad things happen. I've had arrow stop dead. Like 1" of penetration. It's a bad feeling! I've done it at least 4 times over the years. Which caused me to aim too far back and then more bad things happen especially if they step forward at the shot. Now I just aim for the Vital V and let'r rip. I usually either break the shoulder going in or the shoulder going out. They don't go far when they can't run.
And sometimes being lucky (or aiming a bit further back where your margin is greater...) pays off.

I agree that heavy arrows and 2 blade single bevel heads are a good choice. I just don't think they're the only good choice, or that you ever have *all* of the factors in your favor.
 
I took what Ashby did and engineered my own arrow based in his principles. I have the extreme FOC and cuton contact, but with a light arrow.

My main concern is deer are very quick to react, and as a result cause bad hits or jump the string and smaller kill zone with a slow arrow. The arrow set up that I've been using gets pass throughs on shoulders, thighs, spines, etc. AND I get speed to minimize the effects of deer movement. I also get a bigger kill zone around my tree.
But this is my setup, and it works for my hunting style.
 
I took what Ashby did and engineered my own arrow based in his principles. I have the extreme FOC and cuton contact, but with a light arrow.

My main concern is deer are very quick to react, and as a result cause bad hits or jump the string and smaller kill zone with a slow arrow. The arrow set up that I've been using gets pass throughs on shoulders, thighs, spines, etc. AND I get speed to minimize the effects of deer movement. I also get a bigger kill zone around my tree.
But this is my setup, and it works for my hunting style.
Thats only some of ashbys principles if your not increasing weight. Hes pretty specific about his weight for bone breaking. 650 is his magic # shown in his data. Explain your setup. Interested in how your getting efoc and a light arrow.

Assuming you are using a light/weak spined arrow to keep weight light and balanced, you arent really using all his principles on penetration either (Stiff spine)
 
Sorry i see you specifically named the 2 things you took from it
 
And sometimes being lucky (or aiming a bit further back where your margin is greater...) pays off.

I agree that heavy arrows and 2 blade single bevel heads are a good choice. I just don't think they're the only good choice, or that you ever have *all* of the factors in your favor.
By factors I meant the bow & arrow only. As archers we have some control over what type of arrow we shoot. We can't control draw length and to some extent draw weight due to physical limitations but we can maximize them. If an archer applies the 12 factors that Ashby discusses, It's a culumative effect. The more factors that you apply to your set up, the more penetration that is possible.
 
How did you decide what worked best for you? That's one of the concept I cant seem to grasp to understand. Is accuracy and penetration the sign? So I have different weight inserts now, putting them on same length arrows. Just shoot them at different targets, record the grouping and penetration? Or is there an actual 'feeling' to what is right?
 
How did you decide what worked best for you? That's one of the concept I cant seem to grasp to understand. Is accuracy and penetration the sign? So I have different weight inserts now, putting them on same length arrows. Just shoot them at different targets, record the grouping and penetration? Or is there an actual 'feeling' to what is right?


If you want to spend dozens of hours and hundreds of dollars figuring it all out, you can. Or, if you're busy, and just want something that will significantly improve your odds without breaking the bank or wasting tons of time.........


 
According to RF, you'll get one weight combo that when shot out of the bow makes bullet holes when bareshaft tuning. That's the weight combo you use. You might have to play around with spine stiffness if nothing works at a target arrow weight. Once you know that, you can set up your arrow at that weight with any combination. He says to start at 550 grain arrow for deer.
 
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