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WLR Hitch Discussion

I didn’t switch but I’ve use the sticht hitch a bunch and still do at time. You really need to have the right combo with any hitch for it to work as desired. Size as well as rope and cord type makes all the difference. I was using 8mm on 11mm and it was so hard to move. 9mm did much better. Like the WLR it will release while weighted. If you’re antsy about that then I will say the Sticht hitch requires just a little more pressure to break than the WLR in my experience. The sticht benefits from be more compact if that matters to you.

How much it takes to break a hitch is part of the equation but I want a hitch to maintain some friction unless I completely collapse it to rappel.
This was you have control. If you want to dole out a slow foot you can, not break the hitch and fly down 18 plus inches.
 
How much it takes to break a hitch is part of the equation but I want a hitch to maintain some friction unless I completely collapse it to rappel.
This was you have control. If you want to dole out a slow foot you can, not break the hitch and fly down 18 plus inches.
Yes I know. Sounds like you don’t have it tied right or dressed properly if it’s just sliding around or dropping you 18 inches,
 
Sounds like I only tied it while in my recliner on a loop around my foot.
Saturday is my day off this week and I will go fully weight it. I'm liking it so far.

My comment on friction hitches that will run fast is across the board.
It comes down to cord rope combinations and number of wraps and so on to get a hitch to behave.

I don't settle on just a good grab, I test the run and if I don't like it on (whichever hitch)I retie, change cord or even the hitch itself, until I get the desired effect.

I just brought this up because some may focus on just the good grab and not consider these things.
 
Sounds like I only tied it while in my recliner on a loop around my foot.
Saturday is my day off this week and I will go fully weight it. I'm liking it so far.

My comment on friction hitches that will run fast is across the board.
It comes down to cord rope combinations and number of wraps and so on to get a hitch to behave.

I don't settle on just a good grab, I test the run and if I don't like it on (whichever hitch)I retie, change cord or even the hitch itself, until I get the desired effect.

I just brought this up because some may focus on just the good grab and not consider these things.
Yea this is true. Lots of guys won’t have the different cords and ropes to try either and may settle for a less than ideal hitch set up. All those factors should be considered.
 
I spent last season with the Sticht. Very happy with it, but sometimes needed more pull to tend out the sla
I spent last season with the Sticht. Very happy with it, but sometimes needed more pull to tend out the slack than I expected. Really wrenched on my shoulder a couple of times while tending slack. Had a worse experience with JRB; tied with 6mm Beal I'd almost have to untie it to tend out my slack. Anyone switch from Sticht to WLR or Synergy-X? What are your thoughts?
The tending of the Sticht can be made easier by moving the lower section, ring and twist, a little farther down from the wraps, but too far and it won’t grab as reliably.
Or add a small piece of pipe to the twist.
 
I spent last season with the Sticht. Very happy with it, but sometimes needed more pull to tend out the sla

The tending of the Sticht can be made easier by moving the lower section, ring and twist, a little farther down from the wraps, but too far and it won’t grab as reliably.
Or add a small piece of pipe to the twist.
I'll do both things. I bought a bag of PEX components to use for that purpose, but they were about 1/8" too small to work with my hitch cord so I went without. Since then I bought a PVC nipple to cut down for the purpose.
 
I didn’t switch but I’ve use the sticht hitch a bunch and still do at time. You really need to have the right combo with any hitch for it to work as desired. Size as well as rope and cord type makes all the difference. I was using 8mm on 11mm and it was so hard to move. 9mm did much better. Like the WLR it will release while weighted. If you’re antsy about that then I will say the Sticht hitch requires just a little more pressure to break than the WLR in my experience. The sticht benefits from be more compact if that matters to you.
Thanks! I settled on 7mm Sterling on my C-IV. Tends easier than the 5.5 Beal Cordelette and 6mm PMC. I'll try Brocky's advice to make tending easier and play around with the WLR.

Have you tried the Cornell hitch? If not you should. I am a big fan of it
I looked at it, but at the time decided to focus on the JRB and Sticht. I'll have to take another look at it, thanks!
 
I took one end thru my figure 8 and then thru the leg where the cobra weaves begin and attached my figure 8.
My old system with the missing component, WLR hitch.
 

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To rappel just thread the 8 as usual. This means a quick unclip at the bridge.
Descend with friction hitch for saftey and for stopping to work hands free to collect platform and one stik or tethers.
 
To rappel just thread the 8 as usual. This means a quick unclip at the bridge.
Descend with friction hitch for saftey and for stopping to work hands free to collect platform and one stik or tethers.
Can you show it rigged through the figure 8 for rappel? Are you saying your carabiner connects to the figure which is tied to the WLR hitch instead of the carabiner connected directly to the WLR hitch? What is the purpose behind this? Thanks
 
You clip bridge to the 8.
Your rappel rope is not threaded during the climb allowing you to give or tend slack.
 

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Installing an 8 can be a pain when your hanging even requiring a lineman or second tether.
Also when I run a friction hitch at waist level it tends to bias my hang.
With the hitch above it doesn't.
 

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You momentarily unclip to pass the rope around 8 but you are holding both in your other hand.
Its a quick pass.
I do it without further tie offs.
 

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You can review my posts in the past.
I climb on my rappel rope.
One stik or 2TC..
 
Cool rig but I’d rather munter/super munter on my biner and not have the extra metal clanking around and metal on metal contact between the biner and figure 8.
 
Back to the WLR, how are y’all terminating it to clip into? I’m finding that the WLR seems to work well even with a really short loop tied with a hunters bend. Most hitches have seem to have a sweet spot with leg length, but I’m not really seeing that with the WLR. I like shortening it up tight on a tether to maximize adjustment, especially since it’s a bit of a long hitch anyway.

Works with eyes too, but for testing/retie-ing (sp?) I use a hunters bend to close the loop.
 
I made several climbs today.

I want to thank you guys for my new favorite hitch.
It does everything I want.
I don't suppose I have anthing more to add to this thread.
 

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I made several climbs today.

I want to thank you guys for my new favorite hitch.
It does everything I want.
I don't suppose I have anthing more to add to this thread.

Of course you do! Namely what cord on what rope? Also, that’s looks like the standard 3/3/4 version? 3 top wraps, 3 middle wraps and 4 cobra knots?
 
Of course you do! Namely what cord on what rope? Also, that’s looks like the standard 3/3/4 version? 3 top wraps, 3 middle wraps and 4 cobra knots?
i do 2-3 square knots (cobra weave) on the bottom. 4 was overkill and added too much friction to me.
 
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