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Screw it, I'm going back to the whisker biscuit
- Thread starter thedutchtouch
- Start date
Might be a dumb question but what vanes are you using?
Kyle from DCA told me that his larger vanes may have cable contact on some of the newer bows that put the cable guards so close to the riser.
I’m sure you tried already but what happens shooting cock vane in different positions?
Kyle from DCA told me that his larger vanes may have cable contact on some of the newer bows that put the cable guards so close to the riser.
I’m sure you tried already but what happens shooting cock vane in different positions?
Shooting a WB has been scientifically proven to raise your testosterone levels
I mean I have set up QADs and it's not impossible. Far easier if you have a draw board to work with. Nevertheless it's more fun to **** on Questionable Archery Designs. Every winter I see one or two Integrates seize on local 3D track when it drops below freezing.
I apologize. I was rude.
So tell us about your WB.
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Nothing wrong with a WB. I even have one on my warfbow. Shhhhh...don't tell the guys over at the traditional section.
While I think limb driven rest like the Hamskea is better. I think the QAD has more clearance. So that shouldn't be a reason he keep making contact.
shoot what give you confident. And what get you into the wood!
While I think limb driven rest like the Hamskea is better. I think the QAD has more clearance. So that shouldn't be a reason he keep making contact.
shoot what give you confident. And what get you into the wood!
I'm using a drop.away rest this year after years of the WB. Honestly, i miss knowing that the WB is going to hold my arrow steady no matter what position I am in. I may end up switching back myself as I don't care about losing a few fps. There are definitely some pros that a WB has over drop away rests. Do what gives you the most confidence.
MFJJ (Podium Archer) got a 1.5fps difference in his testing. Not much at all.
That's what I thought as well, but I've done it 3x now and still getting some vane contact. Blazer vanes. I'm sure i could get it eventually but more interested in getting dialed in now that season is on.
Cut off vane...install feather problem solved hahahahaha
IMHO, getting vane contact from a QAD is not easy to do, unless you have something funky going on with arrow set up, or you didn’t time the rest, which is very easy to do.
I’ve shot QAD fall away for 20 years and never ever had a problem. I think the one I’m on now is close to 7 years old and it just works.
I would take it to a shop and let them look at it, or watch a couple YouTube videos. I would imagine you could resolve the issue fairly quickly.
I’ve shot QAD fall away for 20 years and never ever had a problem. I think the one I’m on now is close to 7 years old and it just works.
I would take it to a shop and let them look at it, or watch a couple YouTube videos. I would imagine you could resolve the issue fairly quickly.
I was gifted a QAD ultra rest and neither the owner of a well respected archery shop nor a professional archer could get it to time correctly. Swapped in a Ripcord and had no issues. Sent the rest back to QAD and they said it was fine.
So, I guess it depends.
Totally agree. I did exact same yrs ago. I just dont care for the WB here in midwest. Icen snow can really booger up a WB late season.
I always wondered if ice up was a bit of a myth. Perhaps this product helps against it.
BISCUIT SPRAY
www.scorpionvenom-archery.com
Time to move on from the unnecessary stuff in this thread and get back on track. We can give some vacations if you guys want them.
Timing is everything with a drop away.
A fine tuned bow makes all the difference in the world if you’re shooting a speed bow with lighter arrows.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A fine tuned bow makes all the difference in the world if you’re shooting a speed bow with lighter arrows.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorry. My fault. I was out of line and kicked it off. Won’t happen again.
I love the wb and have used it for nearly the entire time I’ve been bow hunting. Drop away rests always seemed unnecessarily fiddly to me. I would be paranoid about catching the cord on brush and screwing up the timing.
I've messed with cable and limb driven rests.
To be sure it is setup right, you should use a draw board.
You can make one for $50. Next spring, shoot me a PM and I can give you some tips.
I've gotten all of mine to be absolute lasers. The instructions or online tips aren't always the most efficient path. Folks seem obsessed with just snugging down the limb driven cord, but that will mean you have no idea when your rest drops in the power stroke and you'll have no way to replicate each the same after repairs/etc and whether it works is dependent upon where the cord is tied on the limb. For QAD and cable driven rests, the instructions on the back to let the cord pull through does not always work well with modern cams where the last few inches of draw barely move the cables at all.
To be sure it is setup right, you should use a draw board.
You can make one for $50. Next spring, shoot me a PM and I can give you some tips.
I've gotten all of mine to be absolute lasers. The instructions or online tips aren't always the most efficient path. Folks seem obsessed with just snugging down the limb driven cord, but that will mean you have no idea when your rest drops in the power stroke and you'll have no way to replicate each the same after repairs/etc and whether it works is dependent upon where the cord is tied on the limb. For QAD and cable driven rests, the instructions on the back to let the cord pull through does not always work well with modern cams where the last few inches of draw barely move the cables at all.
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I would love to blame the rest or the bow draw cycle, so maybe that's part of it. In reality it's probably something I'm doing, I thought it was nock height but I've changed that and it doesn't seem to have results, and messed with the rest timing, from too loose/not fully lining up the lines, to being spot on, to going slightly past, and it doesn't seem to make a difference either.
I need to get/make a draw board and go through the draw cycle slower to figure it out, but to me the get hunting with it ASAP easy button is to throw a WB on the bow and get some practice in with that instead of continuing to mess with it. I will return to the drop away in the future, just... not now. To be honest part of this is just me being fed up/frustrated with "wasting my time" tinkering with it instead of shooting it and have lost confidence in my ability to set up the rest in the short term.
It actually shoots decently well/groups fine as-is, I'm just worried that the black marks on the fletchings could translate to an errant shot when I'm in the woods and the WB is a "known" to me because I had one on my old bow the last 3 years. Hopefully it shows up early enough today that I can test it out, if not I've got some time tomorrow afternoon.
I need to get/make a draw board and go through the draw cycle slower to figure it out, but to me the get hunting with it ASAP easy button is to throw a WB on the bow and get some practice in with that instead of continuing to mess with it. I will return to the drop away in the future, just... not now. To be honest part of this is just me being fed up/frustrated with "wasting my time" tinkering with it instead of shooting it and have lost confidence in my ability to set up the rest in the short term.
It actually shoots decently well/groups fine as-is, I'm just worried that the black marks on the fletchings could translate to an errant shot when I'm in the woods and the WB is a "known" to me because I had one on my old bow the last 3 years. Hopefully it shows up early enough today that I can test it out, if not I've got some time tomorrow afternoon.