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Screw it, I'm going back to the whisker biscuit

Halfstep said:
How are/were you trying to time the drop away rest?
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I followed the rough steps of put it on, attach the cable loose enough that it slips through but stays in the same spot on the bow string, draw it back and the cord slides through, tighten it down and verify the lines on the rest line up at full draw. I don't guarantee I did this correctly, which is why I'm going to give it another go after this season, just want to take it out of the equation this year as I'm too frustrated/don't trust it at this point and want to simplify to get in the woods with that bow.

It's also an excuse to build myself a draw board this winter when season is over
 
When you get the time to fiddle with the drop away rest....

How have you checked for vane clearance/interference? Have you shot thru paper with a fletched arrow and a bare shaft to see if there is a difference in the paper tear?

Take some lipstick and put it on the very edge of the vanes and see any lipstick gets rubbed off after a few shots. This will verify that you have fletching contact and if you do, try rotating the nock to another vane or position and repeat the lipstick test.
 
thedutchtouch said:
Feeling better about this decision already. Tomorrow we go to the archery range to get it done tuned. (Lol that was supposed to be fine tuned but I'm liking the autocorrect) View attachment 91923
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Woah dude. You don’t have to show off all your money with that Surly!

I am designating your set up as the WEZBV. Wheezy Bee Vee. The most bomb proof light weight way to go possible. I love it.
 
Halfstep said:
When you get the time to fiddle with the drop away rest....

How have you checked for vane clearance/interference? Have you shot thru paper with a fletched arrow and a bare shaft to see if there is a difference in the paper tear?

Take some lipstick and put it on the very edge of the vanes and see any lipstick gets rubbed off after a few shots. This will verify that you have fletching contact and if you do, try rotating the nock to another vane or position and repeat the lipstick test.
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Did not get to even trying to arrow tune/shoot thru paper as I assumed the fletching contact (got small black streaks on the vanes) would mess things up.

Did not check for vane clearance too much-they are blazer vanes so relatively small/standard, I figured they should clear the rest. Examining the rest, the felt is worn on the part that drops away, further reinforcing I likely didn't time it correctly and it was dropping too late?
 
Chrighton said:
I like the WB and may also go back on my Darton I bought from @woodsdog2.
In reference to your pic above I always set up my odd fletch on top so none travel through the black whiskers on that same WB. I think the black ones are a bit stiffer maybe. I'm not saying it's right or wrong just how I had always done it.
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Second this. I think of dark whiskers as the shelf and I do believe they’re stiffer than the lighter whiskers. Send the cock feather up-ways. It’ll preserve the life of the biscuit.
 
DelaWhere_Arrow said:
Second this. I think of dark whiskers as the shelf and I do believe they’re stiffer than the lighter whiskers. Send the cock feather up-ways. It’ll preserve the life of the biscuit.
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Will do. I had been adjusting it to the left at like 30 degree increments to see if that changes anything with the QAD contact. If anything it seemed to make it worse so they are all back to vertical now. (Didn't shoot the bow last night, just bolted everything on, I'm sure more than the vane direction needs to be adjusted today)
 
thedutchtouch said:
I've been trying off and on all summer to get my new bow set up with a drop away rest, and I keep getting fletching contact on the rest. I am 100% sure I am doing something wrong, still figuring this all out on my own, and sure that this is a fixable problem, but season has begun and in the interest of hunting with this bow this year... I'm taking the whisker biscuit off my old bear cruzer bow and bolting it on the elite omnia tonight. The heck with it, I want to hunt deer under 35 yards, and that will get it done. No point having this fancy bow and not using it.

Also seeking advice for how to set up the drop away (qad) correctly next summer lol.
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Your rest string is to long/short possibly
 
This may be a stupid question but it seems like one that maybe should have already been asked. What is your arrow setup and tell again what the bow specs are? Just wondering if your contact issue may not have been influenced by a spine issue.
 
How long is your string loop? Are the loop knots sitting right up against the arrow nock? You may need to tie on a longer loop or open up the gap in your current loop to allow the arrow nock to have a little more room.

With a drop away, at full draw, when fully engaged the rest is rigid and has no give. And, if you have a loop and you are pulling directly behind the arrow nock, your arrow might be floating, bouncing or knuckling when shot. You might need to tie on a small string nock below the arrow's nocking point, so you are pulling the loop a little below center and applying a little downward force to the arrow to give it some guidance.

I like to tie on a small nock on the string above the arrow and tie a longer nock on the string below the arrow. Then the loop gets tied on up against the tied on string nocks. This eliminates loop pinch and allows the arrow to be drawn with downward force. This is a good technique especially with the ultra-high let-off on a lot of today's short ATA bows. At full draw, there isn't much load on the string, and it can be easily manipulated by the loop especially if it is too short or squeezing the arrow nock too tightly.

Also consider how much face pressure is being applied to the string at full draw. With these high let-off bows, a little too much string pressure can cause tuning nightmares.
 
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