@Psomeone and
@Aksisu11 I've been under the impression that 3d printed parts wouldn't be strong enough for something like a platform, step or climbing stick parts. If I'm wrong please enlighten me
Yes and no, (sorry this is long)
Depends on the material used, how the models are built, and how they are printed . Do a little research so many cool materials and printers out there and they are constantly coming out with new ones,. (this machine
https://markforged.com/mark-two/ for instance prints in carbon fiber, I want one, yes would easily print them strong enough but expensive) ultimate goal of mine is easy to print safe parts we can all print and use hope it helps the community.
Materials:
PLA doesn't have strength and tends to break easy without warning, prints like a dream though, ( I don't recommend for anything your apply weigh to at height) ok for bow hangers, gear holders (arrow mounts), wind indicators,
ABS tends to be stronger and holds up well (think desk phone housing) but is finicky to print (hot bed temps, and easily influenced by temp changes in the atmosphere around it) depending on the machine, (if you have good prints with proper structure you can get away with this material for some applications) hint: if you machine isn't enclosed a box over it can help with temp problems
PC-ABS, PC, and NYLON are all tougher (engineering materials) and hold up pretty well but require higher temps or heated beds and enclosed build chambers. That being said the layers have to melt together and bond properly to get the benefits of the material. But these are strong or tough materials.
Models:
Built with even walls that aren't overly thick, Machines fill the inside with cross hatch patterns or solid fill these can be weak spots or places to much heat builds up causing warp, fans can help here too. Most parts fail due to small cross sections where force is applied. More walls help print strength too by adding exterior walls, see printing wall layers below.
Printing:
Most parts that fail due to printing are because the layers haven't bonded or delaminate (not melted together properly). For best strength I suggest printing layers so the exterior vertical surface takes the brunt of force. On the step posted above for instance, the bottom of the step is flat to meet up with the print bed. doing this keeps the the outside walls 1 continuous strand so if they don't bond perfectly the would have to pull apart instead of delaminating. I also like to print infill at 50-60% with multiple exterior wall layers to 3 or so.
That was fun, there are other options for materials out there best to read up on them.
The steps posted above have a 3/8" grade 8 bolt running though them which works 2 fold, attaches it to the alum tube and provides a backup in case there is a plastic failure. I haven't tested this yet (my printing time is limited to when i get access to printers) I highly encourage people that want to give this idea a shot to wear good harness and try close to the ground until they are satisfied. But at risk of quoting others "It's your life I take no responsibility be sure be safe"
The platform is still a work in progress for these concepts I think this will work with proper plastic, again haven't tried it yet. I was trying to channel the forces into the aluminum.
Hope this helps some.