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Amsteel tether
- Thread starter Nugget
- Start date
ThereWillBeSpuds
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2019
- Messages
- 648
Amsteel is extremely static and also doesnt play well with most (all?) Friction hitches or mechanical adjustment devices. Not the best choice for a tether imho.
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This has been asked many times on this forum. I think I asked it myself a couple years ago.
I was always told that the general consensus has been that Amsteel is not recommended for tethers.
But if that were still the case, then why is the utilibridge okay to use? It uses a prusik.
I'd like to hear the latest thoughts from some rope gurus about prusiks on Amsteel. Is the full bury effective and is it safe?
I was always told that the general consensus has been that Amsteel is not recommended for tethers.
But if that were still the case, then why is the utilibridge okay to use? It uses a prusik.
I'd like to hear the latest thoughts from some rope gurus about prusiks on Amsteel. Is the full bury effective and is it safe?
ThereWillBeSpuds
Well-Known Member
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- Nov 12, 2019
- Messages
- 648
Im by no means an expert, but the utilibridge skeezes me out. Samson wouldnt endorse this, Id bet.
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Yeah, I've wondered about it, too.
Used 20' of 1/4" full barried for the main and 45" of 1/8" for the continuous loop prusic. I'm starting to test it out in the backyard and I have to say I'm impressed so far.
One thing I've noticed and addressed is the locked brummel loop looked questionable with the 180 degree bend when looped on itself around the tree (hope that made sense). Felt that would be a point of failure. Instead of using that loop, I ended up using the loop on the other end which is an improved button knot with the tag ends barried back into the line. Now the down line isn't against the 180 degree bend of brummel loop but instead nested against the button knot. Top vs bottom in picture. The solution was totally accidental but now I feel much more comfortable. And yes, it's crazy light.
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One thing I've noticed and addressed is the locked brummel loop looked questionable with the 180 degree bend when looped on itself around the tree (hope that made sense). Felt that would be a point of failure. Instead of using that loop, I ended up using the loop on the other end which is an improved button knot with the tag ends barried back into the line. Now the down line isn't against the 180 degree bend of brummel loop but instead nested against the button knot. Top vs bottom in picture. The solution was totally accidental but now I feel much more comfortable. And yes, it's crazy light.
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It’s all a bit of grey area given how we use these products vs. their usual applications. But it’s a general consensus that even though it’s possible it’s not the best choice of tether material. Given available options & specs vs. weight /bulk of other accepted methods. Every one has to evaluate their own methods & live with it. I’m against it given other options!
My new H2 has the bridge made out of Amsteel with a type of friction knot but its not a prusik but is the same principal. I haven't hunted with it yet but have tried it in the yard and it works great. I am going to try your idea in the yard myself except 1/8 and 7/64 but I'm light at 160 soaking wet.
I reported on this. I haven't really tried anything new.
SRT on 3/16" UHMWPE (Amsteel)
I bought a 50 foot winch rope kit kit from HF made from UHMWPE. I was thinking 50 feet is the perfect length for an SRT climbing line. I tried hanging from the line with my Petzl ascender and it worked OK. The rope was a little deformed but it is tough and strong. I have been thinking about...
saddlehunter.com
What is your weight tho.
There's a guy on YouTube with a channel called "HowNOTtoHIGHLINE" that does some crazy break tests on amsteel. After seeing his tests, I'm feeling a lot more confident that this is a viable solution. I'm going to continue to test as much as possible until hunting season. If I don't post anymore then maybe it wasn't a good idea.
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LAKY
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 3, 2019
- Messages
- 459
Have you considered turning the end of that prusik into a soft shackle (prusik/soft shackle combo) and doing away with the carabiner all together? I really don't know in our application if we produce that much friction on our bridge/carabiner connection. Doing away with metal would be awesome. maybe a friction saver over the amsteelI was bored being locked up in the house so I went ahead and fiddled.
This is what I ended up with.
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I think I prefer to keep the carabiner so my bridge which is also amsteel can slide back and forth more freely. The madrock biner is super light anyways and the whole thing is compact enough as it is.
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One possible negative is how fast the Amsteel would wear and fray against the tree bark. I know guys have mentioned that they only use Amsteel rope mods for a year and then retire them - @DaveT1963 I think.
Good call Dan. Maybe a sleeve will help prevent or slow down the fray.
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I'm 175lbs.