No, I recommend bare shaft tuning at 7 yards.
Ur bow still out of tune if it can't handle a jump of 25gr
100 grain half out plus 100grain head and then 125 head? What shaft? Knowing the actual draw weight would be good. That said, In my head your setup doesnt scream weak to me with your draw length and calling it 60# draw weight. I would think it would be stiff if anything.I’m teetering the line of not stiff enough. 27.25” 100 grain half out 350 spine. 27.5” draw shooting 55-60 lbs
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100 grain half out plus 100grain head and then 125 head? What shaft? Knowing the actual draw weight would be good. That said, In my head your setup doesnt scream weak to me with your draw length and calling it 60# draw weight. I would think it would be stiff if anything.
100% agree with you, and my tuning process is pretty similar to yours. Also on the same page with fixed heads. I went with Ramcat this year, very similar to the QAD except that the blades will pivot backwards, which I’m thinking might be a bit easier to pull out of targets, but has its own set of minor drawbacks. Pulling the occasional practice shot out of the target is still a bit of a pain but the things fly great, so I’m finding field point practice is darn near close enough. Keep learning and tweaking but not sure I’ll ever have full accuracy confidence in a big fixed blade head shot from the treestand.yep, some fixed heads are way less critical to form and tuning flaws
some of the best flying heads that are almost hard to make fly bad have been, for me, QAD Exodus swept blades
folks say it doesn't matter what head you shoot if your bow is perfectly tuned....sure, but that requires a perfect shooter in the field while in a tree stand wearing a parka with a big buck making you nervous.....i go with a forgiving setup to make my job easier.....on days where i might have to shoot past 30 yards or it is really windy, i use a sevr 1.5 mechanical (i keep 2 qads and 2 sevrs in my quiver)
This is true for a fletched arrow but not a bare shaft.7 yards or 21 feet is the best distance for bare shaft tuning.My understanding - and I'm happy to be wrong - is that, out of a compound, the arrow is out of paradox after 8-9 yards. So, I put the paper 1-2 yards in front of my bag target, and shoot 10 yards from the paper, so 11-12 yards from the bag. Too close to the paper and the paradox/flexing will throw off your results.
What happens to a bare shaft between 7 yards and 10 yards? I would have thought that 7-8 yards would be the minimum distance to get relevant results, but those same results would hold for a (moderately) longer distance as well.This is true for a fletched arrow but not a bare shaft.7 yards or 21 feet is the best distance for bare shaft tuning.
There might be an archery club with a winter indoor league. My small town has one, they rent the 4H building at the county fairground. I've got to renew my membership for Thursday night league. If so you could paper tune when people aren't actually competing. Just don't shoot broadheads at the range targets.Looks like I’m going to have to figure out how to shoot farther than 10 feet inside
Bet she didn't go far with that shot?