Best Traditional Arrowheads???

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

Just getting started in this traditional journey and just wondering about arrowheads. If this has already been covered in this forum please point me to it.
In your opinion, what is the best arrowhead for pigs?
Is the newer, manufactured in the last 10 years, better than the older ones?
If you like the older ones where is a good source to pick some up.
I read, that some guys have arrowheads from the 1960/1970s that they still use and swear are better than today's ones.

While we are at it, what about the same questions but for deer?
Thanks in advance!!

Information that may or may not matter:
My bow is a Big Jim Buffalo longbow 60"46#@28"
Arrow at this point are Dark Timber carbon 500 spine/8.5 GPI
100 grain brass inserts with a 200 grain field point. Total weight is 571 or something close.
Carbon to carbon is 29 1/4"
Throat of knock to the end of brass insert is 30"

 

[Blacksmith]

I'm kinda old school but IMO you can't beat the tried and true 170 gr. Snuffers. If you like a 2 blade, I've always had pass thrus w/ the 170 grn Zwickey. The 2 blade always passes thru but the 3 blade makes an aweful hole and lots to trail. JMO. I think having an arrow tuned to shoot perfectly from your bow is of utmost importance before you get to the broadhead.

 

[Swampwalker]

The best ones are sharp and fly where your looking. Many, many good heads out there. Not being snarky. But one should put more importance on where they be flying. IMO

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

I'm kinda old school but IMO you can't beat the tried and true 170 gr. Snuffers. If you like a 2 blade, I've always had pass thrus w/ the 170 grn Zwickey. The 2 blade always passes thru but the 3 blade makes an aweful hole and lots to trail. JMO. I think having an arrow tuned to shoot perfectly from your bow is of utmost importance before you get to the broadhead.

Thank you. Yes, I have to do a little more research on proper tuning for traditional gear.
Hopefully there is some good quality information out there for a visual learning person.

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

The best ones are sharp and fly where your looking. Many, many good heads out there. Not being snarky. But one should put more importance on where they be flying. IMO

Not snarky at all. I do have a lot of practice to do before actually hunting an animal for sure. I am a little nervous about sharpening my own broadheads but excited to learn.
Thank you!

 

[Blacksmith]

Not snarky at all. I do have a lot of practice to do before actually hunting an animal for sure. I am a little nervous about sharpening my own broadheads but excited to learn.
Thank you!

I think the 3 blade is the easiest to learn to sharpen, just lay 2 edges on a stone, diamond, or sandpaper & you can get them as sharp as you want. A 2 blade seems a little sharper w/the same effort BC the angles are different. Ranch Fairy has some good YT vids on sharpening.

 

[GeoFish]

Woodsman Broadhead

Woodsman Broadheads have a reputation for being deadly. Enjoy bigger wound channels and better blood trails with these superior 3-blade broadheads. A variety of styles and grain weights to choose from. Woodsman Broadheads are “the most deadly broadhead you’ll ever shoot.”

www.3riversarchery.com

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

I think the 3 blade is the easiest to learn to sharpen, just lay 2 edges on a stone, diamond, or sandpaper & you can get them as sharp as you want. A 2 blade seems a little sharper w/the same effort BC the angles are different. Ranch Fairy has some good YT vids on sharpening.

Thanks I will look at some of his videos.

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

Woodsman Broadhead

Woodsman Broadheads have a reputation for being deadly. Enjoy bigger wound channels and better blood trails with these superior 3-blade broadheads. A variety of styles and grain weights to choose from. Woodsman Broadheads are “the most deadly broadhead you’ll ever shoot.”

www.3riversarchery.com

I will give a look at these. I think I saw a reference somewhere on this brand and they were very pleased with their results.
Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[Will Harris]

if you get your arrows at those weights and setup dialed in and tuned well, you can push a 3 blade thru a deer np. much more consistent blood trails IMO. i've been using VPA 3 blades for years and no issues. even i can get them sharp

if you decide 2 blade single bevel, i have used rms cutthroats in 200gr and they work well also. anywhere from no blood trail to massive. i would advise someone to use something heads with bleeders on them

 

[kbetts]

ACE. Classic and cheap.

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

if you get your arrows at those weights and setup dialed in and tuned well, you can push a 3 blade thru a deer np. much more consistent blood trails IMO. i've been using VPA 3 blades for years and no issues. even i can get them sharp

if you decide 2 blade single bevel, i have used rms cutthroats in 200gr and they work well also. anywhere from no blood trail to massive. i would advise someone to use something heads with bleeders on them

3 blade fixed broad head with a chisel point (RamCat) is all I have used with my compound but that is at 70lbs and almost guaranteed pass through on ever shot.
I wasn't sure with the low poundage of my longbow if I could use a 3 blade and still get a pass through. Thanks for the information!!!

 

[Heydeerman]

ACE. Classic and cheap.

Hard to beat Ace

 

[Razorbak66]

I like the Simmons broadheads and they can be tricky to sharpen but it can be done many different ways and they make a huge hole. The woodsman is another great head. Ace and OG bear razor heads are awesome as well

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

I like the Simmons broadheads and they can be tricky to sharpen but it can be done many different ways and they make a huge hole. The woodsman is another great head. Ace and OG bear razor heads are awesome as well

It is hard not to take broadhead advice from someone with "Razor" as part of their forum name.
Are you a 2 or 3 blade guy?

 

[GCTerpfan]

3 blade fixed broad head with a chisel point (RamCat) is all I have used with my compound but that is at 70lbs and almost guaranteed pass through on ever shot.
I wasn't sure with the low poundage of my longbow if I could use a 3 blade and still get a pass through. Thanks for the information!!!

What’s your draw length?

Your bow weight is right at my personal tipping point for two versus three blade. 45 pounds and under I typically use a two blade head. Over 48 pounds I prefer a three blade. In between and it would vary.

Two versus three blade is a balance of trade offs. All things being equal, You will usually get a little better blood trail with a three blade at the expense of a little less penetration.

You will not be guaranteed a pass-through with your trad bow like you were with your compound but, absent of hitting any hard stuff you very likely will get one.

With those bow and arrow specs I’d personally shoot a big two blade or a small 3 blade like the 1-1/8” VPA. I wouldn’t shoot the ram cats out of any trad bow.

Regardless of the broadhead you shoot make sure it is SHARP. $6 Zwickys to Iron Wills all kill as long as they are sharp.

My dad killed two deer with 42# and a 3 blade 1-1/8” VPA this year. He didn’t get a pass through with either but in both cases the deer was spinning to run when the arrow hit it which sucks up energy and he broke ribs on both sides. On both deer the broadhead was poking the skin on the back side but didn’t penetrate it. His solution is to build himself a 48# bow. Only a bowyer changes his bow instead of his broadhead to get better penetration.

The 1-1/8” VPA’s have been my favorite three blade head for years, until @BTaylor recently let me try a prototype three blade broadhead he is working on. Only one deer so far with it but, I really liked the results.

 

[GCTerpfan]

What’s your draw length?

Your bow weight is right at my personal tipping point for two versus three blade. 45 pounds and under I typically use a two blade head. Over 48 pounds I prefer a three blade. In between and it would vary.

Two versus three blade is a balance of trade offs. All things being equal, You will usually get a little better blood trail with a three blade at the expense of a little less penetration.

You will not be guaranteed a pass-through with your trad bow like you were with your compound but, absent of hitting any hard stuff you very likely will get one.

With those bow and arrow specs I’d personally shoot a big two blade or a small 3 blade like the 1-1/8” VPA. I wouldn’t shoot the ram cats out of any trad bow.

Regardless of the broadhead you shoot make sure it is SHARP. $6 Zwickys to Iron Wills all kill as long as they are sharp.

My dad killed two deer with 42# and a 3 blade 1-1/8” VPA this year. He didn’t get a pass through with either but in both cases the deer was spinning to run when the arrow hit it which sucks up energy and he broke ribs on both sides. On both deer the broadhead was poking the skin on the back side but didn’t penetrate it. His solution is to build himself a 48# bow. Only a bowyer changes his bow instead of his broadhead to get better penetration.

The 1-1/8” VPA’s have been my favorite three blade head for years, until @BTaylor recently let me try a prototype three blade broadhead he is working on. Only one deer so far with it but, I really liked the results.

For some additional anecdotal evidence of penetration in that poundage rain. Two years ago I hunted with my 44# at 29” bow. I draw almost 30”. I killed two whitetails and a sika deer that year with a 2 blade broadheads. First Whitetail was with a SB Grizzley. I caught the back edge of the front side scapula. The Broadhead exited the backside of the deer but the arrow stayed in it when the deer ran off. Died in 40 yards.

Second white tail was with a Zwickey. The arrow zipped through the rib cage and barely slowed down.

The Sika deer was with a 1.75 Centaur 2 blade SB. I dead centered the knuckle of the front side shoulder. The arrow did not break it but the deer literally flopped over in front me me and did not get up. I put another arrow in its rib cage. I still have no idea why that deer just fell over.

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

What’s your draw length?

Your bow weight is right at my personal tipping point for two versus three blade. 45 pounds and under I typically use a two blade head. Over 48 pounds I prefer a three blade. In between and it would vary.

Two versus three blade is a balance of trade offs. All things being equal, You will usually get a little better blood trail with a three blade at the expense of a little less penetration.

You will not be guaranteed a pass-through with your trad bow like you were with your compound but, absent of hitting any hard stuff you very likely will get one.

With those bow and arrow specs I’d personally shoot a big two blade or a small 3 blade like the 1-1/8” VPA. I wouldn’t shoot the ram cats out of any trad bow.

Regardless of the broadhead you shoot make sure it is SHARP. $6 Zwickys to Iron Wills all kill as long as they are sharp.

My dad killed two deer with 42# and a 3 blade 1-1/8” VPA this year. He didn’t get a pass through with either but in both cases the deer was spinning to run when the arrow hit it which sucks up energy and he broke ribs on both sides. On both deer the broadhead was poking the skin on the back side but didn’t penetrate it. His solution is to build himself a 48# bow. Only a bowyer changes his bow instead of his broadhead to get better penetration.

The 1-1/8” VPA’s have been my favorite three blade head for years, until @BTaylor recently let me try a prototype three blade broadhead he is working on. Only one deer so far with it but, I really liked the results.

My draw length is 27 3/4" so with that I assume I am only getting 45# from the 46# bow.
Looks like I fall in that oh crap spot for bow poundage.
That is some good information and I am still laughing but very envious of your dad being able to just make a new bow for his needs.

 

[Just_Hangin_N_GA]

For some additional anecdotal evidence of penetration in that poundage rain. Two years ago I hunted with my 44# at 29” bow. I draw almost 30”. I killed two whitetails and a sika deer that year with a 2 blade broadheads. First Whitetail was with a SB Grizzley. I caught the back edge of the front side scapula. The Broadhead exited the backside of the deer but the arrow stayed in it when the deer ran off. Does in 40 yards.

Second white tail was with a Zwickey. The arrow zipped through the rib cage and barely slowed down.

The Sika deer was with a 1.75 Centaur 2 blade SB. I dead centered the knuckle of the front side shoulder. The arrow did not break it but the deer literally flopped over in front me me and did not get up. I put another arrow in its rib cage. I still have no idea why that deer just fell over.

So if I stay behind the shoulder on a broadside shot, I would have a decent chance at a pass through with a 2 blade but a slimmer chance with a 3 blade.
Maybe I need to get over a pass through and just understand that a well placed shot will do the trick without a pass through.
I have to get out of a compound mindset...lol
I plan on a lot of practice between now and next deer season.
Thanks again!!!!

 

[GCTerpfan]

So if I stay behind the shoulder on a broadside shot, I would have a decent chance at a pass through with a 2 blade but a slimmer chance with a 3 blade.
Maybe I need to get over a pass through and just understand that a well placed shot will do the trick without a pass through.
I have to get out of a compound mindset...lol
I plan on a lot of practice between now and next deer season.
Thanks again!!!!

In my experience with a 571 gr arrow and If you stay away from the shoulder I’d be willing to bet you will almost always get at least a hole on the backside with a 3 blade, and probably get a complete pass through. With a 2 blade you most likely will always get a pass through. Start getting up close to the scapula and/or have a quartering away shot where the arrow ends up around the offside shoulder you’d be more likely to get a pass through with a two blade, at the expense of a little less cutting area.

I wouldn’t say your in the oh crap spot, your just in the range that if you decide to shoot a 2 blade, you could make it a bigger 2 blade and be okay but, if you decide to shoot a 3 blade I’d make it a narrower 3 blade like a 1-1/8” VPA.

At least that’s my opinion from playing with several different broadheads out of several different poundage bows the last couple of years. The benefits of your Dad being a bowyer is you also get lots of bows to play with.