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Carabiner or quick link for tether attachment??

I have a question on this, if using a figure-8 to attach (instead of scaffold or similar), does it matter if I use a delta or oval?
Or is there still an advantage to going with a delta.
 
bj139 said:
Could you show a picture? I am confused as to how this is dangerous.
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Me too. Is this what they mean by ending up on the point? To me that is where it should be in this case.

It is a screenshot from DIY sportsman and his video here.
 

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raisins said:
I believe he is using a soft shackle in place of a screw link.
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Hmmm. That’s interesting. I’ve never saw one of those before. I’d like to hear more opinions on that. That is very intriguing. It’s definitely lighter.


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arm breaker said:
Me too. Is this what they mean by ending up on the point? To me that is where it should be in this case.

It is a screenshot from DIY sportsman and his video here.
Click to expand...

The two statements were not necessarily connected. I was answering two questions one after the other. It seemed someone thought I used them and was giving instructions on where to tie on them. I was stating that I don't use them. And that no matter where you tie it that it will tend to go to the ends because you can't tie it perfectly in the middle of one of the long sides, so it will always start to slide to one side or the other. Same with the triangle, over time it will end up in a corner and I orient that so that the gate is up.

Also, the oval link that DIY is using appears larger than the Petzl Go link, but I don't wanna dig mine out right now.

I'm gonna stop mentioning this when it comes to the oval links because of the hassle and at least half of all people disagree. It isn't a pronouncement based upon testing, it is just my horse sense based upon the slip knot and the weights of the oval and triangle being similar and one obviously way wider. I will still tell people not to tie scaffold knots to rope or webbing though. That probably hasn't been tested because I don't think climbers would ever conceive to tie such a connection, but it isn't intuitive to some folks since a "knot is a knot" at first.
 
I probably wouldn’t use them like the picture, would go with the screw link, or carabiner, the tree would have to be very small for it to be a concern of bending a carabiner. Plus the soft shackle has a Technora cover that would abrade against itself, maybe a polyester, or nylon cover would be better. I mostly use them in place of carabiners if they don’t have to be opened frequently, eliminates metal to metal contacts.
 
I used an oval screw link and a scaffold knot. I rappelled down 5-6 times this year, and I was probably near 300lbs w gear. Several times I came to sudden stops from rappelling by letting go of the lever on my MSG so it stopped letting rope through. I did this near the ground as a test that under a "shock" load everything would work ok. Had no problems with a knot slipping up the end of the screw link.

My only real problem with it is the squeaky noise it makes while screwing it open/closed.

Not contesting what anyone has warned about, just testifying I also thought about it, tested it, had no problems personally. YMMV.
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It would take a lot of force to pull the screw link through the knot, because that same force is also trying to squeeze the knot together.

Graphite powder works good to quiet the gate.
 
Came up with another option while researching a double 6mm tether. The toggle, or dogbone is quick, quiet, and locked in place by tying a slip knot/ overhand on a bight in the large loop shown on the left. The toggle on a Prusik hitch helps to lock the size of the loop.
C6E5FCD5-D0BB-4EE6-AE5C-52D59E090AC8.jpeg
 
Brocky said:
Came up with another option while researching a double 6mm tether. The toggle, or dogbone is quick, quiet, and locked in place by tying a slip knot/ overhand on a bight in the large loop shown on the left. The toggle on a Prusik hitch helps to lock the size of the loop.
View attachment 40645
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Do you really want those wooden dowels supporting you in the tree? You could fall against the tree and the dowel could be pushed out of the loop.
 
No, but it’s hickory, didn’t break just playing with it, and they narrow at the center, tight knot or splice and they can’t come out. The Tylaska ones come with a small cord that helps prevent it from coming out. The Tylaska dogbones are the way to go, aluminum or stainless. I made the wood one years ago from their measurements to get an idea what they were. Toggles were used on sailing ships years ago, doubt they would if they broke easily.
 
What manufacturer and size of threaded Delta Link will best and most safety serve the intended application?
 
Brocky said:
No, but it’s hickory, didn’t break just playing with it, and they narrow at the center, tight knot or splice and they can’t come out. The Tylaska ones come with a small cord that helps prevent it from coming out. The Tylaska dogbones are the way to go, aluminum or stainless. I made the wood one years ago from their measurements to get an idea what they were. Toggles were used on sailing ships years ago, doubt they would if they broke easily.
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Using them to hold sails would probably not cause injury if they came out.
 
Brocky said:
Says the guy who’s not in the middle of the ocean!
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I imagine the sails would be tied at some point and not just held with a stick all around. If not, Darwin would be proud.

I just had a thought. A carabiner would be lighter and stronger than a dogbone. I would use that.
 
Better take a closer look at the aluminum ones, plenty strong and much lighter.
 
Why not just use a loop and center link to the rope. Maybe not as tidy as scaffold knots but pretty much the same as girth hitched.
 
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