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DIY cinching, retrievable anchor: JRB Cinch

Any thoughts on how the biner is being loaded? Seems I just saw something about correct loading being only in a longitudinal direction? Not that I expect it would fail, but I’m a small guy.


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Any thoughts on how the biner is being loaded? Seems I just saw something about correct loading being only in a longitudinal direction? Not that I expect it would fail, but I’m a small guy.


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Its a good question. Carabiners are primarily designed for tension loads along the spine of the device. Tension placed the other way will pull on the gate and is a "side load ". In this hitch, we are using the carabiner as a PIN or a Toggle, not a typical application. It takes a bending force, not a tensile force. All i can say is that this is what rappel rings were designed for: accepting a beaner just like that. A climbing rated beaner is extremely strong and getting a load in a very small area. I have put significant loads on em but have not pulled to failure. My guess is that the rope would break first, or our connection to it.

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thanks John
every thread of yours costs me money LOL
didn't have a ring so bought one, came the other day and I rigged it up and hung it in the back yard last night

one thing that I saw, my 10mm climbing rope really looks like it is under a lot of strain, where it comes thru the ring
and passes over and thru the biner
you think this is the same force as a typical knot?
one thing it does hold nice in the tree and is easy to move,
 
thanks John
every thread of yours costs me money LOL
didn't have a ring so bought one, came the other day and I rigged it up and hung it in the back yard last night

one thing that I saw, my 10mm climbing rope really looks like it is under a lot of strain, where it comes thru the ring
and passes over and thru the biner
you think this is the same force as a typical knot?
one thing it does hold nice in the tree and is easy to move,
Sorry i didn't reply sooner, but i have zero concern about a climbing rope passing thru the beaner and ring. The tension inside the rope is not amplified and is never greater than your body weight.

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With the Walmart hiking stick I was able to pretty easily set the rope at 11 feet using the cinch.


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I just set and climbed a few myself. Now, were ya able to retrieve it?

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Yes with just the hiking stick but do not at all recommend that method lol. I didn’t bother with adding a pull line and that would have been much easier. I did notice something about where to attach the pull line that I want to test.


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One thing that did seem pretty obvious is that climbing a knotty hackberry is going to be pretty much a no go for using a pole to set the rope high. But that isnt a real problem with how easy it is to set this system. Would obviously be a little slower but that's not a big deal for me. I am not trying to set any speed records getting up the tree anyway, at least normally. I would rather go slow an quiet than rush and end up making a bunch of noise.
 
I’m pretty new to saddle hunting and even newer to rappelling. I understand how this works from the photos and it sounds like it works well. Where my questions come are from the extra complexity compared to other options. Why not use a delta/quick link for the girth hitch and exclude the biner? The tether from the biner to the rappel ring seems very smart to make sure nothing can drop to the ground, but I’m missing the benefit of the second device.

Is it to make it easier to remove/loosen for moving? I’ve not had experience trying to pull any rappel setup down so I’m sure it’s something functional that I don’t know due to a lack of experience. You haven’t shown a reason to add complexity for no reason so I’m sure I’m just inexperienced.

Also, the pole idea seems like it would be a great use for any climbing. I always feel uncomfortable climbing with just a linesman belt as I know I’m a bit clumsy at times. With that in mind, I always like to have a tether as well. Using the pole so I only reposition the tether once in a climb (and likely out of an abundance of caution/fear place a second low tether while using the pole) would really save a lot of time for me in repositioning things every step or two.
 
I’m pretty new to saddle hunting and even newer to rappelling. I understand how this works from the photos and it sounds like it works well. Where my questions come are from the extra complexity compared to other options. Why not use a delta/quick link for the girth hitch and exclude the biner? The tether from the biner to the rappel ring seems very smart to make sure nothing can drop to the ground, but I’m missing the benefit of the second device.

Is it to make it easier to remove/loosen for moving? I’ve not had experience trying to pull any rappel setup down so I’m sure it’s something functional that I don’t know due to a lack of experience. You haven’t shown a reason to add complexity for no reason so I’m sure I’m just inexperienced.

Also, the pole idea seems like it would be a great use for any climbing. I always feel uncomfortable climbing with just a linesman belt as I know I’m a bit clumsy at times. With that in mind, I always like to have a tether as well. Using the pole so I only reposition the tether once in a climb (and likely out of an abundance of caution/fear place a second low tether while using the pole) would really save a lot of time for me in repositioning things every step or two.
When ya use a delta link as a running eye for a tether connection (what people frequently and incorrectly call a girth hitch):

1. Its not adequately stable. My cinch is very stable. Slack and whip test it all ya want, and it will not move from its position. The delta falls at a whim when ya take load off and whip the line... which is why most people who use them need some sort of a device to hold it in place.

2. Ya gotta open and close the screw link. Its minor, but if you have ever hunted in the freezing rain til your fingers are so cold ya have no strength and then tried to spin one open and couldn't, ya will appreciate something that you can operate with gloves on.

3. I can move this 20ft up the tree with a pole. Its easier to do than with the alternative.

4. Its easier when bypassing branches. No need to unscrew the delta every time we pass a branch.



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Ok, so the first video introduced the hitch and now that I am pretty sure its not a named device, I need to show u what we can do with it. This should be useful for stick climbers too.


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Need someone with a 3d printer to make an attachment hook for a hooyman pole. Then you would have a choice of a 10' pole that retracts to 28" and is 1.5# or a 5' pole that retracts to a foot. The hiking pole works well and is really light but not as strong for the side to side as the hooyman pole would be.
 
Thx for the suggestions. I was aware of the boat hooks but not the one Brocky showed. One of the reasons i showed 4 possibilities is because there are probably 100 we could list. I have also done full hitch climbs using nothing but a forked stick that I cut off a sapling. That small black hardware store hook I showed on the first telescoping pole will clamp onto anything.

Although i realize some will wanna find a long, extendable pole and SRT to a single anchor, for me personally, there's no way I will carry anything large into the woods. I will set multiple cinches as i "JRB hitch climb", working around branches, and I am feeling like a 6ft pole would be ideal... something that collapses down under 3ft. If anyone knows of anything, let me know. I have a collapsible hiking stick that I am rigging up next.

I definitely prefer a rugged metal hook rather than anything plastic or printed. I assume I may drop it from 25ft onto a rock at some point and i like to picture it not being a problem.

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I will probably just stick with the hiking stick too. A buddy has a 5' hooyman and the only time the pole gets used is pre-season pre-sets. Might see about rigging it up some sort of way and trying it since it packs down to half or less than the hiking stick. Really dont expect to have to make more than a couple transitions after leaving the ground normally to be hunting height as I seldom climb much if any over 20'.
 
How about a cinch on each end of a rappel length rope with JRB ascender hitch going toward each? Alternate moving ends up with the pole.
 
How about a cinch on each end of a rappel length rope with JRB ascender hitch going toward each? Alternate moving ends up with the pole.
Yes... that's what i have been testing for the last few months. But needed to release information in a logical order:
1. Buffalo Hitch is needed for the:
2. JRB Cinch
Also need :
3. Adjustable bridge
4. Compact JRB Ascender
5. Move Cinch with a pole

I was planning on using the JRB Ascender Hitch footloop in this system when I released that video. But in later testing, I realized that the Compact JRB Ascender makes a better design: more comfortable and easier to move.

Those are the building blocks for the new hitch climbing system. I will do that video soon.

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Well I’m all in on this for this season. Testing will start now that the weather is getting nicer. Can’t say thanks enough for the info you share.

Edit: Now I know why some of this is familiar. Mr Eberhart did an interview talking about how he setups on a tether and he suggested bringing a bite of rope through the sewn eye of the tether. This is much more than what that was, but it was an idea that made sense then as a tether setup when I saw it and makes sense now looking at this as a rappel setup. It’s a feature that makes sense and a good one to have in a system.
 
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Well I’m all in on this for this season. Testing will start now that the weather is getting nicer. Can’t say thanks enough for the info you share.
Well be safe, and make sure you ask me questions if you have them. I can improve the video content but I need to know what's missing or what's confusing

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