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Fliplines

This is a 2 in 1 lanyard
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Ok now I see sorry I’m being difficult


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Add ropeman to 2 in 1 lanyard here.
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You're not being difficult. It's important to understand. I think that is why everyone demands videos.


This is simply an option. 2 lanyards works good as well. It all depends on how you want to climb.

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You're not being difficult. It's important to understand. I think that is why everyone demands videos.


This is simply an option. 2 lanyards works well as well. It all depends on how you want to climb.

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I’m going to use spurs and a hand climb top


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Rope grab and prussic are on the same biner. This creates a loop for adjustment of the rope grab. I call this my primary lanyard loop. Easy to adjust under load.

Now you encounter a limb. Take your secondary lanyard loop and hook it above the limb and secure to your saddle. Advance past the limb and adjust. If you prefer the primary linemans lanyard, transition back to the primary. Otherwise, continue to climb. However, if you don't mind the prussic, just drop the rope grab and stick with a single prussic in the middle.

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Rope grab and prussic are on the same biner. This creates a loop for adjustment of the rope grab. I call this my primary lanyard loop. Easy to adjust under load.

Now you encounter a limb. Take your secondary lanyard loop and hook it above the limb and secure to your saddle. Advance past the limb and adjust. If you prefer the primary linemans lanyard, transition back to the primary. Otherwise, continue to climb. However, if you don't mind the prussic, just drop the rope grab and stick with a single prussic in the middle.

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So how long do you make it?


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So how long do you make it?


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That is a personal decision. Depends on your tree selection. Generally 8 foot minimum. 9-11 feet is nice for many trees in the woods. 12-13 foot is nice as well but it's a lot of dangle on smaller stems. If you don't climb big trees it's over kill (like a long tether).

Practice and make a personal decision.

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That is a personal decision. Depends on your tree selection. Generally 8 foot minimum. 9-11 feet is nice for many trees in the woods. 12-13 foot is nice as well but it's a lot of dangle on smaller stems. If you don't climb big trees it's over kill (like a long tether).

Practice and make a personal decision.

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Thanks a lot bass this is big time helpful


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What non-steelcore rope has the best characteristics of an actual flipline (stiffer) even if it weighs a little more than amsteel? Bonus points if its available in 8 or 9mm and holds up to the ropeman 2 teeth. Because to me there is a huge difference between the functionality of a nice responsive flipline vs. a minimalist flaccid linemans. To some certainly worth the weight penalty.
 
What non-steelcore rope has the best characteristics of an actual flipline (stiffer) even if it weighs a little more than amsteel? Bonus points if its available in 8 or 9mm and holds up to the ropeman 2 teeth. Because to me there is a huge difference between the functionality of a nice responsive flipline vs. a minimalist flaccid linemans. To some certainly worth the weight penalty.
See post 8. You won't find it in 8 or 9 mm. It gets better with size.

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See post 8. You won't find it in 8 or 9 mm. It gets better with size.

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Which one is best?

Samson predator is some limp stuff and the ropeman 2 eats it for breakfast. I prefer the 2 for the higher safety rating fwiw.

I do like HTP. Is there one stiffer? The PMI staic that REI has by the foot is great too but only in 11 mm as far as I know and very bulky.
 
Which one is best?

Samson predator is some limp stuff and the ropeman 2 eats it for breakfast. I prefer the 2 for the higher safety rating fwiw.

I do like HTP. Is there one stiffer? The PMI staic that REI has by the foot is great too but only in 11 mm as far as I know and very bulky.
How stiff do you want it? It's rope. They are close enough to the same. It's a lot of fart smelling if you want differences.

Ropeman2 is hard on every rope. It's part of the cost of ownership

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How stiff do you want it? It's rope. They are close enough to the same. It's a lot of fart smelling if you want differences.

Ropeman2 is hard on every rope. It's part of the cost of ownership

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I want to consider the optimal properties of every cog in my wheel. A true flipline allows you to ascend a tree without touching bark. A flaccid rope you have to drag up the whole way. It is a huge difference in functionality. Not being accusatory just asking what the absolute best is.
 
I want to consider the optimal properties of every cog in my wheel. A true flipline allows you to ascend a tree without touching bark. A flaccid rope you have to drag up the whole way. It is a huge difference in functionality. Not being accusatory just asking what the absolute best is.

Deal with the bark. Even arborists don't regularly use steel core flip lines. Rope is quiet, light, and effective.

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Deal with the bark. Even arborists don't regularly use steel core flip lines. Rope is quiet, light, and effective.

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Chill there dude not calling you out just asking the world at large what the optimum rope is. Predator and HTP are two ropes with very different properties.
 
If I had to pick, I would choose predator. I like the color.

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I want to consider the optimal properties of every cog in my wheel. A true flipline allows you to ascend a tree without touching bark. A flaccid rope you have to drag up the whole way. It is a huge difference in functionality. Not being accusatory just asking what the absolute best is.

In the region where I worked, everything was called a flipline regardless of what it was made of. That was just the name for that piece of equipment so forgive me in advance if I'm not up on what you're referring to as "true flipline". Just reading between the lines here a little bit, if you're "dragging" the rope up the tree I can see why you're concerned about stiffness. That's more of a technique related issue and less a cordage issue.

So if you watch these two videos you can see the difference in techniques. In the first video, the climber is climbing a large tree with a flexible rope and to get it up the tree he's rolling it up the tree as opposed to relying on the shear stiffness of the rope to get it up the tree.

In the second video there's no rolling of the line, he's relying heavily on the stiffness of the line to support itself and get it up the tree. I'm assuming this is more along the lines of the technique you're using and that's why a more supple rope feels like it needs to be dragged up the tree.

So which is best? I dunno. Depends on the equipment you're using and how you're using it.
 
I've never had to "drag" any type of rope up the tree. I use either Yale Bandit or Predator most hunts and have no issues. Sure, a slightly "stiffer" rope may go up easier but it won't pack down as small. I'll take the small inconvenience of the limp rope just because it packs up so well with a spliced eye.
 
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