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General Arrow Guidance & Help

Arkie

Arkie

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Aug 27, 2020
Messages
985
I finally got around to shooting the Bob Lee Blackhawk I got a few weeks back.

I haven’t had any issues getting a bare shaft to fly correctly with the other recurves I have; however, I’m having a difficult time getting a bare shaft to fly straight out of this bow.

My form is not perfect, but it’s good enough that I can be comfortable with the flight of a bare shaft.

Today I shot the following arrows with points anywhere from 100 grain to 315 grains.
GT Hunter XT 300
GT Hunter XT 340
GT Hunter XT 400
Easton Axis 300 (might have been a 340)
Easton Axis 400
Black Eagle Vintage 600
Easton FMJ 340
Black Eagle Deep Impact 300

Everything kept hitting nock left and changes in point weight really didn’t affect it much.
Seems that it’s definitely a “me” problem after trying that many arrows, spines, and point weight.

Any guidance on what spine/point weight should work and any tips on what I may be doing to cause this are greatly appreciated.


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Lots of questions here. Draw weight at your length?
Center shot or shooting around a lot of bow? Brace height? 3 under or split? Shelf or elevated rest?

And have you shot any fletched arrows out of it?

All you can expect are guesses from anyone posting on here but give us something to start on.

My supercurve was very hard to tune. I finally ended up with a nock height of 7/8 and brace height of 8 5/8 for my three under style. Took me a while to get there.
 
Phopkins said:
Lots of questions here. Draw weight at your length?
Center shot or shooting around a lot of bow? Brace height? 3 under or split? Shelf or elevated rest?

And have you shot any fletched arrows out of it?

All you can expect are guesses from anyone posting on here but give us something to start on.

My supercurve was very hard to tune. I finally ended up with a nock height of 7/8 and brace height of 8 5/8 for my three under style. Took me a while to get there.
Click to expand...

Sorry, should have included some more details.

27.5 DL
55# at 28”
This will show my ignorance, but it looks to be cut to center or even past center (added a pic)
3 Under
8.25” Brace Height
Off the shelf (has leather on the shelf to elevate it)
Shot some fletched Black Eagle Vintage 600s & some fletched Black Eagle Deep Impact 300s out of it, still nock left

dc68a0f459445615e6775e476dd1dce2.png


c820aeb7a909702526d06fbd5971385c.png



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Phopkins said:
Have you raised the nock height? Try it at 1" to bottom of nock point as an experiment.
Click to expand...

This is probably the best advise. Always
start nock high because if the arrow is bumping off the shelf it’ll take forever to dial anything in…

Sadly I’ve learned this the hard way.


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I haven’t taken it up that high yet, but I’ll give that a try.


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How tight are your nocks on the string? Are you adjusting nock tightness with sandpaper, fingernail file, etc?
Rule of thumb has always been just tight enough for the arrow to hang on but loose enough that the arrow will fall off when the string is tapped.
But with my new arrow build, I got better flight with the arrows snapping on to the string tightly.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
How tight are your nocks on the string? Are you adjusting nock tightness with sandpaper, fingernail file, etc?
Rule of thumb has always been just tight enough for the arrow to hang on but loose enough that the arrow will fall off when the string is tapped.
But with my new arrow build, I got better flight with the arrows snapping on to the string tightly.
Click to expand...


Loose nocks can be an issue, especially for us 3 under shooters. If you try it with a nock that doesn't fit the string and draw back you have to pinch the arrow between the nock point and your finger tightly or the string can loose contact with the throat of the nock. Because of the string angle it is only touching the throat at the top anyway. But if it doesn't touch at all and only contacts at the ears bad arrow flight is often the result. As well as risking a dry fire if it were to fall off at release.
 
Phopkins said:
Loose nocks can be an issue, especially for us 3 under shooters. If you try it with a nock that doesn't fit the string and draw back you have to pinch the arrow between the nock point and your finger tightly or the string can loose contact with the throat of the nock. Because of the string angle it is only touching the throat at the top anyway. But if it doesn't touch at all and only contacts at the ears bad arrow flight is often the result. As well as risking a dry fire if it were to fall off at release.
Click to expand...

Good point…

You might want a second knock set just under the arrow knock to keep it from slipping down the string. That way you won’t have to worry about keeping pressure upward on the arrow knock.
46a810ed04831a2cb1e6084482ac2c27.jpg



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That gap between your strike plate and arrow rest looks weird to me. It may have nothing to do with it, but you might want to tinker with that rest and see if anything changes.
 
Brace sounds high, but I'm not familiar with that particular bow.

I'm the same draw and use a 29" GT 400 with 100 grain brass insert and 175-200 on all my bows to 60 or so pounds. I had a mid 50's bow that liked the same arrow but with a standard insert and 250 up front.
 
tyson12590 said:
That gap between your strike plate and arrow rest looks weird to me. It may have nothing to do with it, but you might want to tinker with that rest and see if anything changes.
Click to expand...

Yea, After I try the nock height I may have to change this if I’m still getting odd flight. That’s how it came so I haven’t touched it yet.


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I would also look at broadhead tuning with fletched arrows. Clay has a great video on it and I have had much better results than bareshaft tuning. Take a video in slow mo on your phone behind you and lined up with your arrow. Watch it frame by frame and see how your arrow is interacting with the bow shelf.
 
I would either replace the leather pad or bevel the front as their is no interfence and move the gap to about 3/16 to 1/8” for the groove and switch to 400 spine shafts with at least 50 to 75 grain insert and start with 150 grain head and make sure the nock snaps on the string and it can rotate smoothly. You don’t want it to tight or loose and if three under definitely put another nock set. Use masking tape temperaily and start at 1” above and shoot at 10 yards and start being nock down little at time until it balances out to slight nock high and slightly weak shaft reading and important shoot it the way you normally shoot wether it’s canting or straight up and down that way your consistant
 
Razorbak66 said:
I would either replace the leather pad or bevel the front as their is no interfence and move the gap to about 3/16 to 1/8” for the groove and switch to 400 spine shafts with at least 50 to 75 grain insert and start with 150 grain head and make sure the nock snaps on the string and it can rotate smoothly. You don’t want it to tight or loose and if three under definitely put another nock set. Use masking tape temperaily and start at 1” above and shoot at 10 yards and start being nock down little at time until it balances out to slight nock high and slightly weak shaft reading and important shoot it the way you normally shoot wether it’s canting or straight up and down that way your consistant
Click to expand...

What would you replace it with? Some fuzzy Velcro? I was thinking about taking it off and replacing it before I started the process again.


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