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Heavy arrow build thread

MathewsMan7

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Dec 2, 2019
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I wonder if the answer (to the question of which end to put forward) depends on whether you intend to shoot broadheads or not. Seems like small variances in straightness at the front end would be magnified by broadheads but probably not by target points. I'd like to listen to that podcast.

It's "On Point with Garret Weaver" Episode 85 "Getting Tuned Up with Greg Poole" It's 2 hours, but it's full of knowledge about building arrows that was BRAND new to me, and there's not a Ranch Fairy video that I haven't seen.
 

AKMonkey

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Nov 15, 2019
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I listened to a podcast and Greg Poole said after he cuts his arrows (the same way you and I do), he always puts the "crooked" side up front as opposed to the back. He did give a reason for this, but I don't remember it well enough and I will not perpetuate fake news, but I remember it made a lot of sense when I heard it, so I plan on doing that this Spring/Summer when I build my arrows for next Fall. He's represented America at worlds, so I know he knows what he's talking about. I also know that he cares way more about the micro tuning side of things more than most hunters, however, if it benefits in tuning, seems like a no brainer to do. Something to try :)
Just searched YouTube and found a video with Greg Poole going through some arrow shaft testing and tuning, and starting at about 17:15 he talks about putting the nock on the straightest end of your shaft "because that's the propelled end". That's it. No further explanation. I sure would like to see some actual tests with both target points and broadheads, to see how much difference it makes if the wobble is on the front or back, and if that differs for target points vs broadheads. Not sure that I want to change up my method just yet. May need to test this myself.
 

AKMonkey

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Nov 15, 2019
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Just searched YouTube and found a video with Greg Poole going through some arrow shaft testing and tuning, and starting at about 17:15 he talks about putting the nock on the straightest end of your shaft "because that's the propelled end". That's it. No further explanation. I sure would like to see some actual tests with both target points and broadheads, to see how much difference it makes if the wobble is on the front or back, and if that differs for target points vs broadheads. Not sure that I want to change up my method just yet. May need to test this myself.
Here's what I found:
 

MathewsMan7

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Dec 2, 2019
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Here's what I found:

I stand corrected! I went back and found where he was talking about this and he finds the end with the straightest 4 inches with a RAM Arrow Spine Tester and that’s his nock end...I completely misunderstood him. You are doing it correct, sir!
 

MathewsMan7

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Dec 2, 2019
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I stand corrected! I went back and found where he was talking about this and he finds the end with the straightest 4 inches with a RAM Arrow Spine Tester and that’s his nock end...I completely misunderstood him. You are doing it correct, sir!

So what he said in the podcast is consistent with this video. He elaborated a little in the podcast about “concentricity” something or other...I don’t know, over my head, but I will definitely do it this way on my next build.
 

AKMonkey

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Nov 15, 2019
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It's "On Point with Garret Weaver" Episode 85 "Getting Tuned Up with Greg Poole" It's 2 hours, but it's full of knowledge about building arrows that was BRAND new to me, and there's not a Ranch Fairy video that I haven't seen.
Just listened to the Garret Weaver podcast. The discussion of putting the nock on the straighest end of the arrow starts at about 1:04:00. He says that propelling the arrow from the straightest end is important. Then spin your point insert with a new field point and rotate the insert until you get a straight spin on the end that has the the remaining wobble. The arguement is that you can tune out the wobble with your insert and point (by rotating the insert), but on the nock end you're constrained by nock tuning. You rotate your nocks on bare shafts, shooting thru paper, to get consistency among your shafts.
 

deertrout

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Jun 20, 2019
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Northern Michigan
I dont know of a chart that compares mfgr to mfgr, but the Grizzlystik site does have charts for their own shafts.

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Thanks. I looked around some more and couldnt find one so I built an excel spreadsheet with the specs for every major manufacturer's arrow specs so you can compare them to one another. You can filter by manufacturer, model, spine, GPI, straightness, ID or OD. It's kinda cool, next step will be to add formulas to calculate momentum, KE, FOC, etc. I think you could easily turn it into an arrow calculator to see how different arrows would work with your setup. Just need to figure the formulas out.

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AKMonkey

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Nov 15, 2019
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Thanks. I looked around some more and couldnt find one so I built an excel spreadsheet with the specs for every major manufacturer's arrow specs so you can compare them to one another. You can filter by manufacturer, model, spine, GPI, straightness, ID or OD. It's kinda cool, next step will be to add formulas to calculate momentum, KE, FOC, etc. I think you could easily turn it into an arrow calculator to see how different arrows would work with your setup. Just need to figure the formulas out.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Can you share your spreadsheet here, either as an attachment or with a link? (Or did you already and I missed it?)
 

woodsdog2

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Jun 28, 2019
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Currently building some new heavier arrows for next year:

Easton Hexx's at 26.5" and 7.9 GPI = 209.35 grains
Bushing = 3 grains
Easton x nock = 9 grains
6" white wrap = 6.8grains
3 3" Vanetec VMax's with a 2 degree RH helical = 6.4g/ea
275 grains will be on the tip

Not quite sure if I want to go with 75 ethics inserts and 200 cutthroats or 150 ethics inserts and an array of 125 heads that would include cutthroats, stinger buzzcuts, etc. Or maybe just do some of each. A golf bag as RF puts it.

Should put me just short of 525 TAW and 21% FOC. Just did bareshaft paper tuning to settle on tip weights for my first time this weekend and loved it. Once I can decide what I want to do with the weight up front, I'll get to gluing everything. Then I'll nock tune and fletch. I love the process and the confidence it gives me.
Hokie what is your drawlength?
 

deertrout

Well-Known Member
Jun 20, 2019
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Northern Michigan
Can you share your spreadsheet here, either as an attachment or with a link? (Or did you already and I missed it?)
I havent shared it yet, I want to add some bells and whistles first. The tricky part is calculating FOC for an arrow you dont have in front of you- more specifically, calculating what the balance point will be. I've tried a couple formulas that should have worked but they are off. My bro-in-law is a math whiz and is taking a look at it to figure out what I'm doing wrong. It will basically be a fully functioning arrow calculator when I'm done. Will definitely share it in this thread as soon as its ready.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Bowmanmike

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Dec 15, 2019
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I love this forum!!!! It is awesome how topics are discussed even with people having different opinions on thing. Everyone stays civil and on point. A similar thread to this one turned into a **** show on AT recently.
This is a special place.
I am also building a heavy arrow,shafts are ordered and a friend has the ranch fairy test kit.
I am wondering if anyone has experience with the spinning inserts on the ethics archery site?
 

SaddleGuy615

New Member
Jun 24, 2019
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I may have missed this above but will a 300 spine shoot the same no matter who made the arrow?


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weekender21

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Aug 19, 2018
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I may have missed this above but will a 300 spine shoot the same no matter who made the arrow?


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In theory yes, two arrows of the same spine should shoot and tune the same. I have a spine tester and there is more of a variation in arrow spine than most realize. Even the same arrow model from the same manufacturer can vary from lot to lot (batch). At one point I was ordering two dozen shafts at one time to ensure I was getting shafts from the same lot.

But...if you’re shooting a .300 spine from one manufacturer you’ll likely have no problem tuning a .300 spine from another.


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slonstdy

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SH Member
Oct 10, 2018
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I love this forum!!!! It is awesome how topics are discussed even with people having different opinions on thing. Everyone stays civil and on point. A similar thread to this one turned into a **** show on AT recently.
This is a special place.
I am also building a heavy arrow,shafts are ordered and a friend has the ranch fairy test kit.
I am wondering if anyone has experience with the spinning inserts on the ethics archery site?

No one here has mentioned them that I've seen and I've seen comments directed towards the RF on his channel and he stated he hasn't had any experience with them. Not clear on the theory behind them but I did indeed notice different arrow flight when I insert tuned a few arrows as per RF recommendation with 100gr ethics ss inserts.
 

bowbender73

Active Member
Sep 21, 2015
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While learning to shoot traditional and being mentored by a trad only veteran, he preached heavy arrow over and over!
After hearing the ranch ferry a few weeks back on The Hunting Public podcast it all came back to me,it made perfect sense and I immediately ordered the test kit! I just need to pick up a few adult arrows in 250 & 300 to start gathering data.
The description that the RF uses in calling this method a hand load is spot on, as I do allot of work developing custom hand loads in rifles. There are many parallels, especially the fact that everyone’s set up will shoot differently.

I plan to use inserts and the 125 Magnus Buzzcut I’ve been shooting for years.
 
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Bowmanmike

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Dec 15, 2019
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The idea behind the spinning inserts is that the arrow spins fast and the head doesn't. Flatter trajectory,little higher speed. It sounds good in theory,especially for a heavy arrow to maybe offset the drop at distance a little. I wonder how their strength is compared to stationary inserts.
 

MathewsMan7

Well-Known Member
Dec 2, 2019
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I was wondering the same thing. Theoretically, they make a lot of sense. There's just not a lot of proven science-based info to specifically back them up, and I haven't seen many testimonials. They may be the real deal...just don't know.