Just searched YouTube and found a video with Greg Poole going through some arrow shaft testing and tuning, and starting at about 17:15 he talks about putting the nock on the straightest end of your shaft "because that's the propelled end". That's it. No further explanation. I sure would like to see some actual tests with both target points and broadheads, to see how much difference it makes if the wobble is on the front or back, and if that differs for target points vs broadheads. Not sure that I want to change up my method just yet. May need to test this myself.I listened to a podcast and Greg Poole said after he cuts his arrows (the same way you and I do), he always puts the "crooked" side up front as opposed to the back. He did give a reason for this, but I don't remember it well enough and I will not perpetuate fake news, but I remember it made a lot of sense when I heard it, so I plan on doing that this Spring/Summer when I build my arrows for next Fall. He's represented America at worlds, so I know he knows what he's talking about. I also know that he cares way more about the micro tuning side of things more than most hunters, however, if it benefits in tuning, seems like a no brainer to do. Something to try
Just listened to the Garret Weaver podcast. The discussion of putting the nock on the straighest end of the arrow starts at about 1:04:00. He says that propelling the arrow from the straightest end is important. Then spin your point insert with a new field point and rotate the insert until you get a straight spin on the end that has the the remaining wobble. The arguement is that you can tune out the wobble with your insert and point (by rotating the insert), but on the nock end you're constrained by nock tuning. You rotate your nocks on bare shafts, shooting thru paper, to get consistency among your shafts.
Thanks. I looked around some more and couldnt find one so I built an excel spreadsheet with the specs for every major manufacturer's arrow specs so you can compare them to one another. You can filter by manufacturer, model, spine, GPI, straightness, ID or OD. It's kinda cool, next step will be to add formulas to calculate momentum, KE, FOC, etc. I think you could easily turn it into an arrow calculator to see how different arrows would work with your setup. Just need to figure the formulas out.
Can you share your spreadsheet here, either as an attachment or with a link? (Or did you already and I missed it?)
Hokie what is your drawlength?
I havent shared it yet, I want to add some bells and whistles first
. The tricky part is calculating FOC for an arrow you dont have in front of you- more specifically, calculating what the balance point will be. I've tried a couple formulas that should have worked but they are off. My bro-in-law is a math whiz and is taking a look at it to figure out what I'm doing wrong. It will basically be a fully functioning arrow calculator when I'm done. Will definitely share it in this thread as soon as its ready.
Would DEFINITELY be interested in checking this out!
I assume Grizzlystiks would shoot differently because they are tapered...built in 5% FOC.
