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Hickory Creek Koolaid

Jtaylor

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2018
Messages
1,789
Anyone have ideas how to repair a few chips in the camo dip paint on the limbs? In bright sun I've noticed small hairline cracks in the camo dip on the limbs, not the limbs themselves and the small chips seem to follow these cracks.
I'm rough on gear and have chipped a few areas of the camo dip off the limbs and it tends to continue to peel the more the limbs flex.
I was thinking some epoxy or something that wouldn't interact with the bare glass/resin that's showing after chipping the dip paint off.
It's not a big deal yet but I'd like to catch it before it gets any worse and stop the potential peel. I could get ahold of Jerry but I'd almost rather hear it from someone who's made a repair on a compound bow or mini and had good success.
 

Vtbow

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2018
Messages
5,433
Anyone have ideas how to repair a few chips in the camo dip paint on the limbs? In bright sun I've noticed small hairline cracks in the camo dip on the limbs, not the limbs themselves and the small chips seem to follow these cracks.
I'm rough on gear and have chipped a few areas of the camo dip off the limbs and it tends to continue to peel the more the limbs flex.
I was thinking some epoxy or something that wouldn't interact with the bare glass/resin that's showing after chipping the dip paint off.
It's not a big deal yet but I'd like to catch it before it gets any worse and stop the potential peel. I could get ahold of Jerry but I'd almost rather hear it from someone who's made a repair on a compound bow or mini and had good success.
flexible clear coat of some sort.. Epoxy will yellow and chip over time due to flex and uv exposure. An acrylic matte clear coat, or even a flat clear nail polish should seal it up and be flexible enough to not peel. Even a wipe on minwax poly would probably work well and is super easy to apply.
 

philsanchez76

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
1,166
Location
TN
Anyone have ideas how to repair a few chips in the camo dip paint on the limbs? In bright sun I've noticed small hairline cracks in the camo dip on the limbs, not the limbs themselves and the small chips seem to follow these cracks.
I'm rough on gear and have chipped a few areas of the camo dip off the limbs and it tends to continue to peel the more the limbs flex.
I was thinking some epoxy or something that wouldn't interact with the bare glass/resin that's showing after chipping the dip paint off.
It's not a big deal yet but I'd like to catch it before it gets any worse and stop the potential peel. I could get ahold of Jerry but I'd almost rather hear it from someone who's made a repair on a compound bow or mini and had good success.
Hmmm... purely a guess, but I use OSI Quad max clear caulking all the time in construction. It stays permanently waterproof and flexible for something like 30 years, I use it in all my window, door and siding projects. you could try small amounts of that and just smooth it on with your finger into a thin layer. It will continue to flex without cracking. FYI mine is doing the same thing, but since it keeps killing deer I haven't tried to fix it yet!
 

dubbeltap69

New Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2021
Messages
21
It turned out that the whisker biscuit was not EXACTLY centered (it was close) and that the string loop was centered on the whisker biscuit but they were both a little lower than the latch in the back for the string (which was perfectly centered). It took a little while for me to figure out but I found that if I left the bow uncocked, put the arrow in the whisker biscuit, wove the arrow through the string loop and then put it on the anti dry fire that I could slide the cheek rest over it and it kept it there. This gave me a straight line all the way between the 3 points where I could adjust the whisker biscuit. (having trouble uploading a pic but will try harder if helpful to anyone). Once you start to get it tight turning the screw moves the whisker biscuit a little so you have to take that into account. Once it was perfectly centered on the main body (I drew marks with pencil as well on center of body and center of whisker biscuit) I adjusted the string loop by tightening/loosening the limbs until it was perfectly centered as well.

Since doing this the bow has shot awesome. It is dead on now every time and I can see that the arrows are hitting straight on whereas before they would be a little tilted in the target. My horizontal was fine but I imagine that the same thing could happen and you could have to adjust that if there is variability in that plane where your arrows hit.
Just wanted to pass along my appreciation for your post. I was having same exact issue for the past few months but turns out with the horizontal adjustment - field points flying great, my new single bevel broad heads though were flying very erratically (lots of tail wobble). Because of your post I finally looked at the rest on my bow and with my naked eye thought, "well maybe the rest could move a wee bit over". Goodness what a simple solution. I probably only moved .020" or so. I scored a line with my utility knife before I moved it, and then moved it over just the slightest amount. Instant fix. I do still get some tail wobble, but not nearly as bad. I might try to adjust it slightly more, but a big part of me is saying to just leave it right where it is. Thanks again.
 

kyler1945

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SH Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
5,606
Location
Willis, TX
Anybody explored this option? I'm confused as to how you mount the bow sight.

I want to go to a pin sight on my mini. It’s one thing I liked about the big bow he makes. I hate a scope for bow huntjng. I’ve got a good answer on the reflex red dot now. But I may have to look into this
 

philsanchez76

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
May 20, 2019
Messages
1,166
Location
TN
Anybody explored this option? I'm confused as to how you mount the bow sight.

That's super cool. I'd be interested in that for sure. I have no idea how he is mounting the front pins. Only reason I still stick with the Hawke scope is it really does give me an extra 10 minutes of good light when im hunting in dark areas. But whenever it craps out I may switch to something like this.
 

swampbuck

Active Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 8, 2015
Messages
137
Location
GA
Only possible downside I see to the method shown in the video is visibility at dark:30...

Right now, I'm running an AT3 red dot with no magnification and low light is more of an issue that I thought it would be. You're looking at the riser on the left and the stirrup on the right. It's just a little annoying because it's harder to judge the critter's body language when you're engaged in the shot. I would see the bow sight as having the same issue, but regardless, I'll probably give it a try.

As @kyler1945 said, scopes generally suck for bowhunting, especially for what I consider to be about a 30 yard weapon.
 

woodsdog2

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2019
Messages
4,518
When I had mine I changed out the OG scope and mounted a reddot on it with different crosshair options. I liked the simple red cross hair the best but the circle and dot worked well too. Yes, you see a bit of the stirrup and a bit of the riser but it does allow you to focus in on your aimpoint better. Kind of like a built in EZV concept. Sight picture of the target is somewhat diminished however. I wonder if there would be room for a magnifier in front of a small red dot to blur out stirrup and riser in the overall sight picture. But then for a decent magnifier you're talkin' almost as much as the Mini.
 

Heydeerman

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SH Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2015
Messages
807
Location
Muskingum County, Ohio
I tried an EZV crossbow sight on my Mission and it worked well. The scope was better so I switched back and sold the sight. I wish I still had it to play with on my mini. The stock scope is low end but it works. I’d much rather have a more open sight picture.
 

ryansean

Member
SH Member
Joined
Sep 2, 2019
Messages
49
Location
Illinois
Update:

Zeroed it back with field tips on old and new arrows, then tried the Kudu 125s on the new DCA arrow that came apart previously. Hit about 5-6 inches left, adjusted scope and its on now. 3 consistent groups. Is it possible that not having the vanes aligned properly interfered previously with the biscuit? New to all this. Used to a scope and rail and prepackaged excalibur bolts and broadheads. This session I made sure to align the odd colored vane outward each time. Not sure I did that before.

Next I tried the 125 WASPS on the same arrow. Went far left. Decided that I'm shooting Kudus since I don't feel like figuring that out since they were half the cost of the Kudu. Will a change in broadhead cause that much of a difference in flight at 20 yards?
Did you ever get this straightened out?

My 125 grain field points are shooting good groups from 20 to 50 yards. When I use the same arrow(s) with the 125 broadheads I'm getting about 7" left and 4" low at only 20 yards.

If I put the field points back on, I'm hitting center again. I tried another brand of broadheads and am getting the same results left and down.

Any suggestions? I've read about spine issues, but my setups are all 300 spine, 50 grain insert, and 125 broadheads /field points. Thanks
 

dubbeltap69

New Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2021
Messages
21
Did you ever get this straightened out?

My 125 grain field points are shooting good groups from 20 to 50 yards. When I use the same arrow(s) with the 125 broadheads I'm getting about 7" left and 4" low at only 20 yards.

If I put the field points back on, I'm hitting center again. I tried another brand of broadheads and am getting the same results left and down.

Any suggestions? I've read about spine issues, but my setups are all 300 spine, 50 grain insert, and 125 broadheads /field points. Thanks
Check to see if your rest is inline (up and down) with your nock, and check that your rest is inline (left and right) with your string. Field points are forgiving, broadheads aren't. I had to adjust my rest probably .030" to get my broadheads to fly straight consistently, but now it's working great.

Good luck.
 

midTNhunter

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2018
Messages
45
the hickory creek is 2 for 2. two shots taken, two deer down inside 30 yards. while the scope leaves a lot to be desired from a clarity standpoint, it is dead on accurate and holding zero. so thankful i saw @Nutterbuster 's video on it last year. only issue ive experienced is the quiver broke. for a bow at this price point...a little disappointing but i love the bow and if saving $ on the scope/quiver keeps hickory creek in business i can live with that.
 

kyler1945

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SH Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2016
Messages
5,606
Location
Willis, TX
the hickory creek is 2 for 2. two shots taken, two deer down inside 30 yards. while the scope leaves a lot to be desired from a clarity standpoint, it is dead on accurate and holding zero. so thankful i saw @Nutterbuster 's video on it last year. only issue ive experienced is the quiver broke. for a bow at this price point...a little disappointing but i love the bow and if saving $ on the scope/quiver keeps hickory creek in business i can live with that.
Is the quiver still a kwikee? Can’t really blame that on cost or brand of bow.

Nice work!

Pics of deer?!
 

kobudo

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2017
Messages
673
Location
Barron County Wisconsin
I received mine yesterday, set up and shot it today. I only have 20 yards in my yard, but it was pretty accurate. Scope clarity is sub par. That trigger rattle is going to drive me nuts though. I snapped off the red lever used to release the quiver in about 5 minutes of using it.
It came from the factory with a lock nut and set screw installed, so you would have to take them off to disassemble into 2 parts. The take down knob was in the package separate with directions. This was great, as I didn't have to purchase a lock nut, as I want to keep it together.
My daughter likes it.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 
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