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How I boil horns… euro mount..

woodsdog2 said:
Cool, can I see some of your unbleached skulls? I saw a post recently of your OH buck on the kitchen stove. Nice!
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None of these skulls had peroxide or bleach on them. Yeah, some of them will leach a little oil but I prefer that look. I think the sooner the hide is removed, and the sooner it's boiled, the better the outcome.
Side note: Isn't nature amazing? Check out the construction of those skull plates. That intricate joint acts like a complex tongue and groove creating superior strength rater than a straight joint. The amount of stress to a skull during a knock-down drag-out fight is substantial. These skulls are built to handle it.
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I usually try to write something on a skull identifying where it came from, year, or other details. I usually use a pencil in case I ever want to remove or change it.
I once saw some high quality sketch on a skull. The artist drew a rattlesnake that appeared as if it came in-out of the eye sockets. It WAS NOT cheesy looking. It was high talent and looked awesome. I wish I had a photo of that.
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This one was from Iowa. The elk shed was from Idaho. Note the date on the skull plate of the spike. I was a year and a half old when my dad shot that in Elk County PA. That was typical of antler size in Elk Co in those days. Now that area is producing some real trophies.
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Someday, someone might want to know some details of a skull. The other side has more info on it.
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Here's an incisor slice that came from Deer Age...lab aged teeth.
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I've done a few skulls. At least a dozen more that aren't in this pic.
Side note: that American flag is a reminder of 9-11. Back in 2001, the country came together. Seemed like every vehicle had an American flag on it. We were indeed united. But little by little, the flags started falling off vehicles and were laying along the road like trash. It was heart breaking to see the lack of regard.
This particular flag laid along my route for weeks. One day I couldn't take it any longer so I pulled over and picked it up. I'll never part with that flag. Never forget.
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Allegheny Tom said:
Arm and Hammer makes something called Super Washing Soda. It's sodium bicarbonate. Is that the same thing as soda ash?
Super Washing Soda was recommended by the taxidermist that taught me how to do euros.
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It could be. i never used it.
 
Topdog said:
My taxidermist said 7.5, I have no reason to doubt him he’s been at it 44 years, myself I have no idea how to age deer, he weighed 193 lbs dressed a couple days after I shot him, his head was longer then anything else I’ve soaked, he wouldn’t fit in the pan like the rest unless I turned it some.
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Aging by tooth wear essentially places a deer into an "age class". Tooth replacement ages young deer very accurately.
Immature deer (post replacement) is also fairly accurate within a year or 2.
The next 2 age classes are middle age and old age. Not necessarily a hard number, more like a range. I'd not be surprised at all if your buck is teetering on old age.
However, for whatever the reason, upper jaw teeth wear more than lower jaw teeth. Upper wear can be a little misleading.
If that were my buck. I would definitely send the incisors to DeerAge.
Impressive rack regardless of the age.
Congrats.
 
One thing I’ve found that works the best for me on the whitening step is to take white paper towel and cover the skull. Tear into pieces and wet it with cream and cover all the bone. When you do this the whitener sticks better and the paper towel holds the moisture so you get more direct contact for longer periods of time. It acts like a wick to get it into the eye sockets and other areas.
 
10essee said:
One thing I’ve found that works the best for me on the whitening step is to take white paper towel and cover the skull. Tear into pieces and wet it with cream and cover all the bone. When you do this the whitener sticks better and the paper towel holds the moisture so you get more direct contact for longer periods of time. It acts like a wick to get it into the eye sockets and other areas.
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I Do the same. I will even dump some liquid peroxide on the paper towels and into any crevices. It’s not as strong as the cream but seems to help.
 
I pretty much do the same but the past couple years I bring skull to one of those self service car wash and use their high power pressure washer for a few bucks put skull in milk crate and blow the bits out go back home and simmer little more and do some scraping with a long screw driver sharpen slightly on one to work the meat and gristle a little better
 
I've done 3 now not an expert by any means but what I've learned along the way:

1) Removing the brains and all that fat behind the eyeballs before boiling helps keep grease splotches from forming

2) Boiling ASAP, the day after it is killed results in a better product. Some combo of this and #1 resulted in the second one I did not turning out as well as I would like. I was busy and just coudn't get to it for a few days, and that one turned out with some grease splotches.

3) Some heat in combo with the peroxide paste speeds the process a lot. I just prop it beside a space heater. I prefer to keep the teeth natural color so I paint the paste on carefully. I used the 40 volume mixed with a peroxide whitening powder. The whitening abilities of the peroxide dissipates quickly, once mixed you have about an hour to work with it, according to a friend that works with the stuff on hair. 2 coats get a nice natural looking whitened-but-not-too-white appearance.

4) You definitely want to wrap the bases like OP did or the coloration can wash away (got lazy with the last one I did and it lost some color around the bases).

5) Someone asked about boil vs. simmer. I know this just from cooking. A simmer is considered about 185-195. Bubbles but shouldn't break the surface. Lower temps break down proteins and collagen in a more controlled manner than boiling. Meat cooked at a rolling boil is usually tough. In this application we definitely want to break it down to get it off the bone.

6) No need at all for a pressure washer, just grab a knife and start scraping.
 
I simmer first with just water 1:30 to 2 hours. Blow brains out and power wash most of the stuff off. Then I go back to simmer with fresh water and dawn soap or maybe 20 mule team borax for maybe 30 minutes. I feel like clean water pulls the fat out better. I then power wash wire brush and pick to get everything missed. I use volume 40 gel and 1 scoop of basic white powder applied liberally to everything I want white. After 24 hours rinse and it's done.
 
I've only done one, which was after my taxidermist wanted $225 to do it--easy decision to DIY there. (I'm willing to pay up for their shoulder mounts because they are absolutely incredible, but there's not much artistry to a euro mount that justifies a premium price...) I learned a few lessons along the way, including many of those mentioned above, but my #1 lesson was that if I can find someone to do it well for me for $100ish, I'm gonna spend that money every time and not give it a second thought. Haha
 
I you do not have a pressure washer or it is put away for the winter use a carwash bay. It works well and you can hit it with soap and water. Be carful around the sinus area in front of the eyes as they can be damaged. It does not make a mess of the carwash bay either, at that point most of the good stuff is gone.
 
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