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How to overcome flinch with rifles/handguns?

When I pattern new turkey loads or sighting in my rifles I can hold on the target easily it’s the trigger pull that does it for me. I’ve gotten significantly better in recent yrs just concentration on holding it on the target and not letting the fear/panic take over.

Always been like that. Target shooting only and only with long guns. Pistol no issues. Bow no issues. Any type of game no issues.

I shoot my guns at a range maybe 2-3 times a yr. If I had issues with wild game I’d practice but for whatever reason I don’t
 
Weldabeast said:
Are u shoot at a range or out in the woods somewhere? I don't like being around other people and don't go to the gun ranges close to where I live in the city cause they crowded. I drive and hour to public range in the national forest. Pull up at dawn and u normally by urself. I shoot as little as possible to make me confident I'm on target and accurate shooting at paper. I don't like shooting at paper.....I wish I had private land I could shoot at. Interactive targets are so much more fun to me...those rolling ball style were the yardage is constantly changing are real fun....and being alone not having to watch other people makes more enjoyable.
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Same here I go out to a small country sportsmans club I belong to that have separate outdoor alleys separated by woods. I reload my own so I shoot all the time. 22, 9mm, 357mag, 44mag. I also take the grand kids and shoot pellet guns and BB guns with them. They like the interactive target spinners, rolling ball, and air pumped up water bottles the most. They get the metal clink, visual movement and the air bottles blow up with the pellet guns.
 
For me at least, it’s all a mind game. I know the big bore will hurt but which is more important, the pain or the shot.

With small bore, I’ll plink all day long but with big bore, I only look for the 1-2 shots of accuracy. Essentially, I only “prove” accuracy with big bore and have my fun with small bore.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Don't overdue shooting high-recoil rounds from a bench. I've done enough recoil damage to my shoulder that shooting a couple rounds of trap will leave my right hand numb for a day or two; pulling the trigger on most deer rifles is painful.
 
As others have said, dry fire practice will help immensely. Bolt-action rifles are easy, just turn (but don't fully cycle) the bolt, so you don't eject your snap cap. Revolvers and single/double action pistols are easier to dry fire than Glocks, because you can manually reset the trigger (by thumb-cocking the hammer, or just another trigger pull). There are Glock dry-fire gizmos on the market and even a DIY version: https://dryfiretrainingcards.com/blog/diy-dry-fire-cord-make-your-own/
But, a 10mm is a heck of an introduction to pistol marksmanship... I wouldn't personally recommend trying to teach yourself on a 10mm if you have other options available to you.

One thing you can do to address your shot anticipation is a cadence drill. Either count down - out loud or in your head - or use a metronome (which probably means an app on your phone). Execute a perfect shot cycle - including follow-through - on every 'beat'. Focusing on maintaining an even cadence and perfect shot cycle should hopefully distract yourself from anticipating the shot.

Another thing you can do is balance a penny on your front sight, and focus on keeping the pistol steady enough through your shot cycle that you don't drop the penny.
 
I don't plan on continuing to learn with a 10mm, it was more of a " prove you can hit this can, so we can go hunting" slash just having fun at the range. I do think that it was a mistake in hindsight to "start" there but it is what it is. I've been doing some dry fire practice at home, hope to get back to the range this weekend. I'll be getting a 22lr and a 9mm for pistol range practice, just need to let the credit card cool off a bit after buying myself a fancy pack.
 
thedutchtouch said:
I don't plan on continuing to learn with a 10mm, it was more of a " prove you can hit this can, so we can go hunting" slash just having fun at the range. I do think that it was a mistake in hindsight to "start" there but it is what it is. I've been doing some dry fire practice at home, hope to get back to the range this weekend. I'll be getting a 22lr and a 9mm for pistol range practice, just need to let the credit card cool off a bit after buying myself a fancy pack.
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Consider getting a 22 pistol. Or a pistol that has 22 conversion kit. My favorite is 9mm too, but even 9mm ammo is getting pricey. Speaking for a friend (well, FIL), as I stop shooting regularly.
 
HuumanCreed said:
Consider getting a 22 pistol. Or a pistol that has 22 conversion kit. My favorite is 9mm too, but even 9mm ammo is getting pricey. Speaking for a friend (well, FIL), as I stop shooting regularly.
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Sorry, yeah that's what I meant a 22 pistol and a 9mm pistol, and then something else and then something else... Lol
 
HuumanCreed said:
Consider getting a 22 pistol. Or a pistol that has 22 conversion kit. My favorite is 9mm too, but even 9mm ammo is getting pricey. Speaking for a friend (well, FIL), as I stop shooting regularly.
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Don't overlook revolvers. A .357, which is certainly adequate for anything smaller than a moose or brown bear, can be loaded with .38 Special, or even primed cases with a bit of wax, or a foam earplug, or a cotton ball, pressed into the case mouth. You can usually find a Lee Loader on an auction site with a bit of patience. I've got a 4" N-frame and a lightweight J-frame. And a Taurus knockoff of a J-frame. And a stainless Charter Arms Bulldog in .44SPL. The triggers are excellent, they carry easily enough, hit hard enough to be practical for most reasonable situations, and the manual of arms, while more complicated than swapping out a magazine, can be picked up with a few hours of practice. I prefer dry-fire practice with my wheelguns than I do with my EDC autoloaders.
 
Iron_llama said:
Don't overlook revolvers. A .357, which is certainly adequate for anything smaller than a moose or brown bear, can be loaded with .38 Special, or even primed cases with a bit of wax, or a foam earplug, or a cotton ball, pressed into the case mouth. You can usually find a Lee Loader on an auction site with a bit of patience. I've got a 4" N-frame and a lightweight J-frame. And a Taurus knockoff of a J-frame. And a stainless Charter Arms Bulldog in .44SPL. The triggers are excellent, they carry easily enough, hit hard enough to be practical for most reasonable situations, and the manual of arms, while more complicated than swapping out a magazine, can be picked up with a few hours of practice. I prefer dry-fire practice with my wheelguns than I do with my EDC autoloaders.
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I agree completely! Revolvers are reliable too. But again like all weapons, don't go for the big boys unless you're ready. Also understand some ammo have different powder load, you can crack a bone in your hand if you were shooting practice light load and didn't realized you change to heavy load...ask me how I know!

One of the best scene in cinematic history
 
I am a rifle manufacture and make them big and small.
As I matured my desire for rifle recoil deminished.
I have shot many rifles, shotguns and handguns.
About two years ago I had a customer with a Pre64 Winchester model 70 in 375 H&H with no brake. I personally own a Sako Model 995 in 375 H&H with a brake. Had a friend/customer that was going Brown Bear hunting in Russia. I worked up some 270 grain Barnes TTXX bullets loaded in the 375 H&H. My rifle has a very moderate recoil. The customers Winchester had been bedded about 30 years ago and was spraying bullets at 100 yards. I removed the bedding and rebedded it with a free floating barrel. I then adjusted the 8 pound trigger down to about 2 pounds.
I went to test fire this rifle and after the first shot I found myself flintching badly. It was just not pleasant to shoot. I had to really work and concentrate to shoot this rifle. I got it down to sub MOA groups. I recomendation to anyone shooting a light heavy recoiling rifle is to put a brake on it. I also recomend wearing both good ear plugs and head set shooting muffs. Then get ample trigger time with that rifle. Many of my 22, 6mm, and 6.5mm target rifles are both low recoil and heavy. Most of those shooters use brakes on their rifles not so much for prevent kick but to make it so they can follow up their shots with seeing the bullet impact.
Hope this helps you understand that you ar not alone with recoil induced flinching. I can happen to the best of shooter. I once had a guy come to me and ask me to build him a 300 Win Mag for target shooting. He had little to no shooting exprience. After tlking with him for 30 minutes, I asked him to step out on my deck and to lay down prown. I stepped in front of him and he asked what I was doing. I told him that I was going to share the experience of shooting a 300 Win Mag from the prone position. I rared back and kicked his shoulder with my boot. He jumped up and said what the hell. I told him there were 19 more rounds in the box and to lay back down. I ended up building him a 308 Wincester. He later thanked me an said I could not have explained it any better.
 
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