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Identify and educate please

BTaylor said:
This was what I was referring too.


"Do persimmon seeds need scarification?


The persimmons need about 60 days of cold stratification. Since you collected directly from fruit then they will need a mechanical scarification also. Rubbing each seed on some sandpaper will do the trick---this will just improve the germination."
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So what about the male female tree thing( I think this is one of the trees that have a male and female)
 
Weldabeast said:
Just like @BTaylor said....u gotta rub it gently then u know which is which
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So maybe i'm not explaining it well. And with all of the gender confusion going on in the world right now maybe its just me. If I plant a seed will it grow a male or a female tree? Is there a way to tell with just the seed or have to wait and see if one puts on fruit 5 years from now. Should i plant 10 seeds and hope some are male and some are female. Do you have to have both sexes to have fruit on the female tree.
 
CooterBrown said:
So maybe i'm not explaining it well. And with all of the gender confusion going on in the world right now maybe its just me. If I plant a seed will it grow a male or a female tree? Is there a way to tell with just the seed or have to wait and see if one puts on fruit 5 years from now. Should i plant 10 seeds and hope some are male and some are female. Do you have to have both sexes to have fruit on the female tree.
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Just plant an Asian persimmons and you won’t need to cross pollinate. They can produce fruit and seed by themselves…
 
CooterBrown said:
So maybe i'm not explaining it well. And with all of the gender confusion going on in the world right now maybe its just me. If I plant a seed will it grow a male or a female tree? Is there a way to tell with just the seed or have to wait and see if one puts on fruit 5 years from now. Should i plant 10 seeds and hope some are male and some are female. Do you have to have both sexes to have fruit on the female tree.
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Or plant like 6 seeds spaced about 15 to 20 foot apart and let nature do the rest
 
CooterBrown said:
So maybe i'm not explaining it well. And with all of the gender confusion going on in the world right now maybe its just me. If I plant a seed will it grow a male or a female tree? Is there a way to tell with just the seed or have to wait and see if one puts on fruit 5 years from now. Should i plant 10 seeds and hope some are male and some are female. Do you have to have both sexes to have fruit on the female tree.
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If I was going to raise some american persimmons from seed I would probably start 30-50 and then pick the best seedlings at the end of the first growing season. Shirley you will get some of both male and female.
 
CooterBrown said:
So maybe i'm not explaining it well. And with all of the gender confusion going on in the world right now maybe its just me. If I plant a seed will it grow a male or a female tree? Is there a way to tell with just the seed or have to wait and see if one puts on fruit 5 years from now. Should i plant 10 seeds and hope some are male and some are female. Do you have to have both sexes to have fruit on the female tree.
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Yes, you need both male and female for optimal fruit production. You won’t know which you have for ~7 years. 50/50 is a rough guess but you may end up with more of one or the other.

Good news: you can bark graft female persimmon scion wood onto male trees once they’re mature and you know what you have.

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Fl Canopy Stalker said:
Just plant an Asian persimmons and you won’t need to cross pollinate. They can produce fruit and seed by themselves…
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You can purchase grafted American persimmon that are guaranteed female. Better than planting a non native.


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gcr0003 said:
I have read differently. Do you have a reference that states that?
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There are hundreds of species of oaks and basically, all can be put into 2 groups: the red oak group And the white oak group. The distinction between groups is clearly observable in the cellular structure when you look at a board cut from one of these trees. For us hunters the important thing to understand is that generally speaking, white oaks Have much less tannin than red and therefore require less energy for deer to digest. Under normal conditions deer will choose white oaks Over red oaks.
 
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Jammintree said:
There are hundreds of species of oaks and basically, all can be put into 2 groups: the red oak group And the white oak group. The distinction between groups is clearly observable in the cellular structure when you look at a board cut from one of these trees. For us hunters the important thing to understand is that generally speaking, white oaks Have much less tannin than red and therefore require less energy for deer to digest. Under normal conditions deer will choose white oaks Over red oaks.
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Another hypothesis I’ve heard tossed around in academia recently is that deer eat white oak acorns first because they’re aware those acorns won’t be available long. In the right conditions white oak acorns can sprout within a few days. They can casually clean up red oak acorns (that require stratification) all fall/winter and into the spring in some cases.

Deer are concentrate selectors, ignoring what appears to be prime food one day any hammering it the next. Not much is know on just how they’re able to select the absolute most beneficial plant on a daily, weekly, seasonal basis. But it’s damn impressive.


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GCTerpfan said:
Yes, it’s early but I noticed this morning walking out of church that the parking lot was covered in red oak acorns. Then the wife and I went on a hike this afternoon and I saw several other red oaks that were staring to drop already in Garrett County.
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Walking the pups this morning I was getting shelled with red oak acorns. Whites not dropping yet
 
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