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I'm about to spend a few bucks.

K

K98Al

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2023
Messages
63
Goal for 2024: Get proficient with compound bow, kill an elk, deer, and perhaps a pig.
I've not shot a bow in a few years (other that occasional one-off) - been hunting with x-bow. Started that because shoulder surgeries precluded my using a recurve, and I wanted to extend hunting season, (was mostly muzzleloader guy)

So - I'm about to blow a bunch of cash at the local bow shop. Looking at an Elite bow, WB rest, Scott release, not sure about sights. Thinking of launching Tooth of the Arrow solid points.

Any input/critique invited, and appreciated. I'm not a complete newbie to archery at all, but a lot has changed as far as equipment refinements. I'm not chasing perfection, just solid dependability.
 
So not to start a brand loyalty or fan post, but have you considered Mathews? The only reason that I ask this, is (if necessary, as I did note shoulder issues) that you can change draw poundage on the new bows with the replacement of a module instead of new limbs...
 
Sekhunter said:
Elites are great bows, with the shoulder issues you’ll want the smooth mods not the performance mods. Go shoot as many 50-60 pound bows as you can, get what feels best to you, grip, draw and shot feel. It’s an additive venture
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This^^^. Shoot a variety of bows and you will know which is the right bow for you. Elite makes really good stuff but the same can be said for pretty much all of the Mfg's these days.
 
Not sure about all the major bow companies but a lot of them just released the 2024 lineup, which means the 2023's should be going on sale and used flagship bows that a year or two old will start to show up at your local bow shop. I would suggest taking a few trips to shoot what they have and be patient for the right bow to show up at the right price. With modern compounds the differences in technology isn't as noticeable to the average shooter so staying on the cutting edge of technology isn't paramount IMO. Shoot everything that is in your draw weight and length range and let the bows tell you what you should get
 
Given you’ve had shoulder issues think 50-60 lb range and maybe move up from there, 60lb pull will kill anything in North America especially with coc heads. Elite makes some smooth shooting bows, Bowtechs “ss” series bows are designed to be as smooth shooting as possible. Also, going 50-60 lb pull will give you a much smoother shooting experience especially with let down where a 70lb pull will try and tear your arm off. Can’t go wrong with a wb and a solid three pin. Whatever release aid you get settle on one that’s adjustable, I’m partial to Hot Shot thumb releases myself. Some bows come ready to hunt but those are typically lower price bows (mission, diamond) or something you might find at cabelas (which aren’t bad bows despite all the trash talk, their bows are made by bear). Since you’re getting back into compounds I’d keep your setup as simple as possible to start with which is why I recommend wb and simple three pin. Don’t let a shop talk you into $500 worth of sights and rests. You have all year to tinker with your setup until next season. The other reason I recommend basic setup is that will allow you to get proficient with shooting your bow from the saddle position. It’s different than shooting from a stand and takes practice, especially your weak side shot. Can’t work on that if you’re always derping around with your bow. Any, just my thoughts.
 
@woodsdog2 always seems to have something nice in Classifieds. Did he finally sell that Mathews Legacy? Lol. That one earned the nickname, “TTT” / ”bump”.

I still have mine, it’s as solid a shooter as ever.

The main advantage of the newer cam systems is in potential. Greater FPS or momentum. Tuning and keeping them tuned is maybe less simple/bomber, idk.

Closest I’ve come to pulling the trigger on a new bow was last season’s Carbon Elite.
 
I had a similar problem....rotator cuff issues which caused me to use an XBow for many years.....figured bow technology had improved a lot in that time and wanted to go back to a compound rather than upgrade my ancient Excalibur crossbow, so I did exactly what the guys above have recommended....went to the local bow shop and test shot a bunch of different bows. I was kinda figuring on going with a top of the line bow, like a Mathews or Hoyt, but after my experiences settled on a PSE Drive NXT ready-to-shoot package set at 50 lbs. I chose this bow because it was the smoothest pull of all the bows I tried and figured it would be least likely to cause shoulder issues to resurface. It was a bonus that the price for a ready-to-shoot kit was way lower than just a bare bow at the top end of the other manufacturers range. I already had lots of Gold Tip carbon arrows that would work, so that reduced costs even more.

Since then I replaced the rest with a Hamskea one, added some better stabilizers and may consider changing the sights to a slider this year. But all of those accessories could move to a new bow if I ever decide to upgrade down the road.

Also am building some slightly heavier arrows for this year, using 6.5mm (just because I have a ton of lumenoks that will fit so didn't want to go smaller diameter at this time) match grade Easton shafts. I do my own wraps and fletching and will run Iron Will SB 125gr CoC (cut-on-contact) broadheads which should give me a total arrow weight in the mid or high 400 grain range, which is what I want. Right now I'm in the low 400 range with 100gr heads.

As I practice more over the winter, I expect I'll up the poundage to 55 and maybe even 60 lb draw, if I feel my shoulder will deal with that, to get a bit more speed with the slightly heavier arrows, and flatten the trajectory a bit more.

Anyway....long story short....the advice is good....go to a good bow shop and shoot a bunch of bows and see what you like best. I did and came out spending way less than I expected and got a bow I am very pleased with in the process, surprisingly not the brand or top end that I had expected to go with.
 
Exhumis said:
Given you’ve had shoulder issues think 50-60 lb range and maybe move up from there, 60lb pull will kill anything in North America especially with coc heads. Elite makes some smooth shooting bows, Bowtechs “ss” series bows are designed to be as smooth shooting as possible. Also, going 50-60 lb pull will give you a much smoother shooting experience especially with let down where a 70lb pull will try and tear your arm off. Can’t go wrong with a wb and a solid three pin. Whatever release aid you get settle on one that’s adjustable, I’m partial to Hot Shot thumb releases myself. Some bows come ready to hunt but those are typically lower price bows (mission, diamond) or something you might find at cabelas (which aren’t bad bows despite all the trash talk, their bows are made by bear). Since you’re getting back into compounds I’d keep your setup as simple as possible to start with which is why I recommend wb and simple three pin. Don’t let a shop talk you into $500 worth of sights and rests. You have all year to tinker with your setup until next season. The other reason I recommend basic setup is that will allow you to get proficient with shooting your bow from the saddle position. It’s different than shooting from a stand and takes practice, especially your weak side shot. Can’t work on that if you’re always derping around with your bow. Any, just my thoughts.
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So long as it doesn’t ever shift on the bow, I can’t imagine anything working better for me than a 3 pin sight for any shot I’d take on a game animal.

Mine cost like $30 and have served me well for decades. The design would only be improved in my estimation by a dovetail style connection.

For a rest, I like the WB for spot and stalk, especially during any crawling around. But a containment style drop away is a bit more forgiving of torque and string pressure and nearly as good on a stalk. Those are perhaps a bit less bomber and some have trouble tuning them on occasion. I have had (an old model) one fail to drop, but the upside is still there for me. The bearings have improved since they came out many years ago, and I’ve been happy with my current rest for several years. Food for thought.
 
Plebe said:
So long as it doesn’t ever shift on the bow, I can’t imagine anything working better for me than a 3 pin sight for any shot I’d take on a game animal.

Mine cost like $30 and have served me well for decades. It’d only be improved in my estimation by a dovetail style connection.

For a rest, I like the WB for spot and stalk, especially during any crawling around. But a containment style drop away is a bit more forgiving of torque and string pressure and nearly as good on a stalk. Those are perhaps a bit less bomber and some have trouble tuning them on occasion. I have had (an old model) one fail to drop, but the upside is still there for me. The bearings have improved since they came out many years ago, and I’ve been happy with my current rest for several years. Food for thought.
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Yup, torque is why I switch to a drop away. Ran my old HHA for years till I sold my bow. Ran it from the string and it was rock solid.
 
If you’re starting out or have an existing injury don’t go crazy.

Archerytalk and eBay second hand bow

I have a diamond core 30 pound draw weight variant range and easy to adjust draw. Not fancy or expensive but works. I had a pec Injury that lingered and I started this bow at low poundage and worked my way up. Cost me 100$ with accessories.

Food for thought
 
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Plebe said:
@woodsdog2 always seems to have something nice in Classifieds. Did he finally sell that Mathews Legacy? Lol. That one earned the nickname, “TTT” / ”bump”.

I still have mine, it’s as solid a shooter as ever.

The main advantage of the newer cam systems is in potential. Greater FPS or momentum. Tuning and keeping them tuned is maybe less simple/bomber, idk.

Closest I’ve come to pulling the trigger on a new bow was last season’s Carbon Elite.
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Ha! Yes I did! I traded it for other gear. It is /was a great bow!
 
I own quite a few different bows. Smaller company that you can usually find leftovers at a pretty decent price I would recommend is Athens Archery out of New York. I actually sold my Elite to buy one of these why the elite was a touch faster. At 70 lbs this bow is easier to draw and way smoother than my 65 lb Prime or my 60 lb BowTech.
 
I would try several different brands to see which one felt the best on your shoulder. Make sure you try them in their smoothest settings as some bows have the ability to have a hard or smooth draw cycle. Jack the poundage up several pounds higher than you intend to shoot as it will be more telling on what bothers the shoulder. You may have to go thru the process a few times to get a good feel for what your shoulder likes. Make sure the valley is feeling generous so as to not want to take off on you if you creep a touch.

A bow with a draw cycle that starts out easy and has a good valley is going to feel better on the shoulders and other joints. It's always the beginning and end of a draw cycle that is the most critical for aching joints. The middle of the cycle can be easily tamed with poundage adjustments.
 
K98Al said:
Goal for 2024: Get proficient with compound bow, kill an elk, deer, and perhaps a pig.
I've not shot a bow in a few years (other that occasional one-off) - been hunting with x-bow. Started that because shoulder surgeries precluded my using a recurve, and I wanted to extend hunting season, (was mostly muzzleloader guy)

So - I'm about to blow a bunch of cash at the local bow shop. Looking at an Elite bow, WB rest, Scott release, not sure about sights. Thinking of launching Tooth of the Arrow solid points.

Any input/critique invited, and appreciated. I'm not a complete newbie to archery at all, but a lot has changed as far as equipment refinements. I'm not chasing perfection, just solid dependability.
Click to expand...
You’re definitely on the right track with everything you listed. Sight can be anything you prefer, IQ pro hunter I love mine it has 2 solid pins and a floating 3rd pin kind of best of both worlds type of deal but just about any site would be good on that setup. Elite are legit, the new Omnia is an awesome bow and also has great speed which usually isn’t really elites fortè. Tooth of the arrow are ones I just added to my arsenal which is saying a lot bc I’ve preached these bloodsport gravediggers for years and even with the smaller cut of the ToTA I’m switching.
 
Shoot as many bows as you can. Choose the bow you like. None of us can tell you what is best for you. Elite makes a great bow if that’s the one you choose. Don’t worry about your buddies or what I shoot. Comfort to you is what counts. Good luck and break some nocks.
 
I second @Exhumis , keep it simple. Don't get caught up in the flashy specs. Pick one that feels good, tune it and forget all the fancy stuff lol
 
If you are looking to just get back into compound I say the smoothest bow you should consider is the Mathews HTX or HTR. The cycle is buttery, but its not the fastest bow out there. They can be found on Ebay for around 400-500.

But if you want something that is user friendly to tune, the Elite bows are hard to beat with their newer system.
 
I'm currently shooting a Mathews Monster and I think I'm going to look at an Elite or Bowtech for my next bow - if I ever get the money.

The reason I'd like a Bowtech or Elite is because of their tuning systems. As a fixed blade broadhead shooter and as someone who wants to tinker with their arrow weights I found that my Mathews ran into limits that would require me to take it to my shop.

I like the idea of being able to mess with my arrow setup/broadheads and take my bow out in the backyard and have it perfectly tuned within a few minutes - Bowtech and Elite give you that ability.
 
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