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Locked brummel on both sides of bridge?

If I were to build an amsteel bridge it would probably be in a whoopie fashion. Could you take the bury all the way back to the end of the bury on the locked Brummel? That would get rid of that little skinny section in the middle of the bridge and lengthen the radius of the tight bend going over the carabiner just a tad.
That's exactly how I do it. It takes a little more Amsteel because the bridge is basically doubled.
Remember, when you exit the whoopie bury, make sure you exit on the proper side of the rope...you want the tag end coming out so it will never ride up against your tether carabiner. That way, you will have full travel of your beener along the bridge. If you exit the tag 180 degrees it will be in the way of full travel when you twist to shoot behind you. I hope I explained that clearly.

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And when you do the whoopie bury by the locked brummel, spread the saddle as wide as you will ever want it. That way, you can trim the tag end as short as possible. You will always be able to adjust it shorter, but never longer...thats why you start with it as long as possibly ever needed.

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It is possible but requires 3 locked brummel. If its a shorter bridge not worth it due to bury lengths. You have to have 2 pieces and lock brummel them to each side of the saddle then another locked brummel in the middle to connect the 2 ends.
 
Where can I find a D-splicer needle for 7/64 amsteel without having to pay 50.00+ dollars.
 
I dont see what the attraction is to having both side of the bridge fixed to the saddle with brummel splices.

I personally hated having to step through the bridge on my mantis. I would much rather have a carabiner on one side.
 
I dont see what the attraction is to having both side of the bridge fixed to the saddle with brummel splices.

I personally hated having to step through the bridge on my mantis. I would much rather have a carabiner on one side.
Saddles are so individual.
Going to an Amsteel bridge was mostly to get rid of the clunky predator rope knots and to eliminate the carabiner. Although I started out stepping thru the bridge, I saw the suggestion by someone here to slip the saddle on over your head like a sweatshirt. It works well.

Then, I started to realize that the exact point on the loops that the bridge pulled on made a difference for comfort.

Sometimes I like it pulling from a low loop position and sometimes during the day, I may adjust it to a higher "pull". Thats when I realized I wanted the bridge to cinch tight on the loops, so it doesnt slide.

Each and every adjustment and setting we make with a saddle interacts with other adjustments. Bridge length, tether height, body shape, sitter or leaner, platform or ROS...Everything that we tweak effects something else.
One thing I like better about the Amsteel bridge with no carabiner is that the entire length of the bridge...from loop to loop...is usable. I can twist farther without a beener on the bridge.
 
I went down stairs and found an old wire...stripped it and works great.
 
I use a soft shackle made of amsteel to connect the second end of a locked brummel to my saddle. Adds about 3" to the length of the bridge so you have to plan for it, but allows it to be removed.
 
I just made a double locked brummel with a carabiner on one side. I wanted to see if I liked how the amsteel rolls through the tether carabiner better than the predator rope.
So far it us smoother but still not taking off the Predator rope
 
just ordered 5/16 Amsteel to make a whoopie bridge. I know most people use 1/4 but I like the though of the extra beef. In the end it will be less bulky and still weigh a lot less.
 
I sewn my own diy saddle and I did a locked brummel on both ends. Just slid it on my webbing loops before sewing it all together. Works great.
 
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