• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Looking for your broadhead opinions

125gr bloodsport gravediggers chisel tip I’ve been using these since they’ve come out and with the 18 or so deer downed with them and countless hogs I haven’t had to track a single one, it amazes me how not many people know about these they’re far better than anything I’ve ever used across the board.
 
I've had great luck with Black Hornets serrated and non serrated. I usually touch them up a bit out of the box. Great warranty. Also I've used Slick Trick standards. Those things are stupid sharp out of the box.
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it, however shoot 125 gr qad exodus, great so far, 3 deer 3 pass throughs (but they weren't that big, largest was a mature doe, didn't hit much bone on any of them, my pic is the doe's center punched heart). if you don't want to sharpen, the blades are replaceable, though I haven't replaced any yet due to breakage/bending. The 3 that went through animals into dirt got relegated to backups because I was lazy, not because there was anything wrong with them.

All that said I still debate the two blade cut on context high FOC stuff pretty much every off-season myself. Didn't make sense to me figuring out new arrows etc for my starter bow. Likely getting a new bow but will probably still shoot the exoduses this season. We shall see.
 
HuumanCreed said:
I jumped on a good deal for some Iron Will and they are great. Fly straight and I got my first archery deer with them. But they take a lot of maintenance due to the higher quality steel. You have to keep them oil and I'm still unable to sharpen them back to the level that I got them from the seller. I forgot to dry and oil them up after getting caught in the rain and the main blade were rusted by the next weekend. The Magnus Stinger that was in the same quiver as a backup is still in perfect condition to this day.

I'm also interested in going single bevel but see a lot of information about their blood trails being poor.
Click to expand...
How are you sharpening? I have no experience with the Iron Wills but am a convert to the StaySharp guides, using wet/dry sandpaper on Masonite. If you put a travel tube of Vaseline in the box with your jigs and sandpaper and whatnot you'll be less likely to forget to glop a bit on your broadheads after you finish sharpening them.

I also put the jig for sharpening chisels and hand plane irons in the box with my broadhead sharpening kit and find myself putting petroleum jelly on those as well. I don't do enough woodworking and sometimes get some patina on my tools that probably isn't conducive to sharpness. In the middle of rehabbing a big, old, Stanley hand plane, it's taking a lot of work to get it back in tune, but progressing through the grits like it was a broadhead is producing excellent results. Next is to come up with jigs for hunting knives, hand chisels, and Havalon blades.
 
HuskerInIowa said:
Debating making a change in broadheads for the upcoming season but I’m not sure if I’m contemplating it just to be doing something or if it’s a good idea/step up. Currently shooting the Muzzy 3 blade with the trocar tip. 3 shots on deer last year with 3 pass throughs and none went more than 50-75 yards so part of my hesitation is why change what is working but I’m sure there are good reasons.
I’ve been debating going to a single bevel (Iron Will was my initial thought but I’ve seen some posts about them being one of the more difficult ones to sharpen, not stuck on that brand) as well as looking at QAD exodus after seeing several positive posts about them.
Draw weight 65 pounds, 30” draw, with a 460 grain arrow, 100 grain broadhead is what I’m using right now. Also thought about going 125 for the broadhead weight if I switched and more knowledgeable people than I said it was necessary or a good idea. Just looking for some more experienced opinions outside of do whatever ranch fairy says.
Click to expand...

I shoot QAD Exodus 125 grain swept. They are the best replaceable fixed blade broadheads I have used. Check if the swept are legal in your state. Compared to Muzzy, Wasp, and a few other brands of replaceable fixed heads I've tried, the QAD are the most durable, most accurate, and quietest.

I'd only go with a single bevel if you got the one with bleeder blades and you just wanted to try something new/resharpen your own heads.
 
Haven’t been at this too long but I’ve shot deer with a 3 blade snuffer, single bevel, qad exodus and sevr 1.5.

Vpa makes a 125g single bevel I think I’m going to try this year and I saw a 3 blade from method archery that’s a solid one piece built a lot like the exodus. So it should be easier to sharpen.

Going forward I think I’m going to prioritize ease of sharpening. 3 blades are stupid easy to sharpen so I’m leaning more towards it than the single bevel but from what I’ve had they haven’t been too hard to sharpen either. But as others have said if you haven’t had problems with what you’re shooting why change.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Lot of good advice in here, appreciate y’all as always. Be on the lookout in the classified for when I’m too stupid to listen to everyone and have to catch and release something that I spent too much money on doesn’t work for me back to the group. Haha
 
I’m guessing you want a fixed blade. If you are entertaining mechanicals check out the 150gr Shwacker. I shot fixed blades for yrs, mostly Montecs. Three yrs ago I switched to the 150 grain Shwacker. The last 3 out of 4 deer I have shot with them have dropped like a sack of taters with double lung shots. The one that ran, ran 15 yds, and the blood trail was phenomenal. The 3” cut is nothing to play with. I know a lot of people dislike mechanicals. I felt the same way until I gave Shwacker a shot after seeing the devastation it caused on a deer my brother shot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The OP question is kinda like politics, religion, or brunette/blonde opinions; but everyone DOES have an opinion, even if they're all different lol. I personally shoot the 3-blade non-vented VPA, Kudupoint Contour, and Sevr. I have used many different broadheads and harvested more than a few deer, and I can only think of one true broadhead (not human or shot placement error) issue that resulted in a lost deer for me. I sat heavily in the mechanical camp for almost 10 years, and I didn't move away from them because of failures... Evidently I would highly recommend my current broadheads, but a few more that I would definitely recommend are: G5 Montec (either SS or CS), QAD Exodus, Helix, or the Slick Trick SS3. A broadhead is a tool, not a crutch, and I'll argue that point forever.
 
From the sounds of it, I wouldn’t mess with it. But if you just can’t help yourself Magnus makes great heads, I like the 2 blades with bleeders. The have a lifetime warranty on the ferrule, I’ve bent 2 & they sent new ones. Blades are replaceable & easy to get shaving sharp.
 
For a non single bevel option I have had good luck with Magnus Singer Buzzcuts. I used the ones with the bleeder blades. For single bevels I use Grizzy heads mounted on a steel insert. They are a bit of a pain to sharpen the first time. They don't come hunt ready, but they are great heads.
 
I used to use Muzzy 4-blades. Killed a few deer and never had a broadhead survive to be used again. But I also never hit a deer and lost it with them.

Now I'm using 200-grain Cutthroats. I've killed two deer with one of them (three if I count the finishing shot I put on my brother's deer). One or two more and the cost will even out. The one that went farthest traveled 70 yards, but it was a a blood trail a blind guy could follow after 30 yards.
 
bowhunthard88 said:
The OP question is kinda like politics, religion, or brunette/blonde opinions; but everyone DOES have an opinion, even if they're all different lol. I personally shoot the 3-blade non-vented VPA, Kudupoint Contour, and Sevr. I have used many different broadheads and harvested more than a few deer, and I can only think of one true broadhead (not human or shot placement error) issue that resulted in a lost deer for me. I sat heavily in the mechanical camp for almost 10 years, and I didn't move away from them because of failures... Evidently I would highly recommend my current broadheads, but a few more that I would definitely recommend are: G5 Montec (either SS or CS), QAD Exodus, Helix, or the Slick Trick SS3. A broadhead is a tool, not a crutch, and I'll argue that point forever.
Click to expand...

Yea, but then there are the redheads!!! You see your buddy with one and just start wondering…. What would it be like. Next thing you know, you run down that rabbit hole. You can either give it a shot or forever wonder what it would have been like. Lol.
 
I shot the muzzy 3 blades with aluminum arrows for several years and struggled with consistent arrow flight beyond 30 yds. That was entirely my fault from being self taught and not understanding how critical it is to have a well tuned bow and arrow setup.

That led me to shoot the Rage 2 blades 100 gr for several years and I killed a lot of deer with them. 450 gr total arrow weight. FMJs I would typically get a pass through if I was under 20 yds but was inconsistent beyond 25yds. Still my fault because that setup was only 9% FOC.

3 years years ago I went down the Ranch Fairy path. 125 gr 2 blade single bevel Grizzly Sticks with 125 gr spinning inserts, and footer. TAW of 575 gr with carbon arrows and 21% FOC. Used that setup for 2 years. It was overboard on FOC and was a finicky setup. Every kill was under 20 yds and all pass through but that is only 2 years of.data. I think the finicky part was still my fault. I had a local shop install a new bow string. After months of fighting with the bow I went to another shop and found out the first shop had tied the rest cord too short and it was torquing the cam. I also found out that first shop made the string they installed on my bow instead of replacing it with OEM string. The string continued to stretch causing me to struggle with keeping the bow it tuned.

Last year I dropped my TAW back down to 500 gr. Kept the same broadhead with 50 gr inserts. 16% FOC. Learned enough from RF and YouTube to work on my own bow. Installed a high quality string, micro adjustable arrow rest, swapped the top hats, and tuned my bow to the point I could shoot a bare shaft and a fletched shaft at 40 yds and have them touching. I love how forgiving this setup is and plan to stick with it. Only killed 2 deer with it so far. Shot a doe quartering away, broke a rib and the arrow ended up traveling down her neck and was stopped by the base of the skull.

I think I would have great success now if I were to swap back to the muzzys. However, I learned about the importance of single bevels for breaking through bone with less energy loss and therefore won’t be switching back. The Ranch Fairy information is good but can lead a person to push too far in an effort to maximize FOC. I would recommend the single bevel and increased broadhead weight. Target 15-17% FOC. Staying in the bell curve will give the easiest to tune and most forgiving setups.

FOC is like the Hot vs Crazy line.Below the hot vs crazy line is a blast but ifyou venture above it your just looking for trouble.
 
HuskerInIowa said:
Debating making a change in broadheads for the upcoming season but I’m not sure if I’m contemplating it just to be doing something or if it’s a good idea/step up. Currently shooting the Muzzy 3 blade with the trocar tip. 3 shots on deer last year with 3 pass throughs and none went more than 50-75 yards so part of my hesitation is why change what is working but I’m sure there are good reasons.
I’ve been debating going to a single bevel (Iron Will was my initial thought but I’ve seen some posts about them being one of the more difficult ones to sharpen, not stuck on that brand) as well as looking at QAD exodus after seeing several positive posts about them.
Draw weight 65 pounds, 30” draw, with a 460 grain arrow, 100 grain broadhead is what I’m using right now. Also thought about going 125 for the broadhead weight if I switched and more knowledgeable people than I said it was necessary or a good idea. Just looking for some more experienced opinions outside of do whatever ranch fairy says.
Click to expand...
Want an opinion? Probably won't be real popular - but your existing setup is fine. Different broadheads aren't going to make the deer "more deader" - 3 pass throughs last year? I'm not sure what you are trying to fix? If it isn't broken, don't try to fix it! Sigh. Hunters chase gear improvements because it is a variable that can be controlled and think newer is always better, unless it's not......
 
bowhunthard88 said:
The OP question is kinda like politics, religion, or brunette/blonde opinions; but everyone DOES have an opinion, even if they're all different lol. I personally shoot the 3-blade non-vented VPA, Kudupoint Contour, and Sevr. I have used many different broadheads and harvested more than a few deer, and I can only think of one true broadhead (not human or shot placement error) issue that resulted in a lost deer for me. I sat heavily in the mechanical camp for almost 10 years, and I didn't move away from them because of failures... Evidently I would highly recommend my current broadheads, but a few more that I would definitely recommend are: G5 Montec (either SS or CS), QAD Exodus, Helix, or the Slick Trick SS3. A broadhead is a tool, not a crutch, and I'll argue that point forever.
Click to expand...
Definitely brunette. :)
 
LeTuB said:
For upcomming season I'll switch to kayuga pilot cut, single piece, single bevel
The "shuttle" shape generates an entry hole almost twice the width of the main blade.
A buddy use them for several years on african big game with a 60# trad bow with huge success ( eland, kudu...) Pass thru almost every time
View attachment 86188
Click to expand...
Man that looks like a pain in the butt to sharpen....18 different planes to sharpen
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top