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My next step, arrows

katiesmom

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2020
Messages
1,192
Location
East Alabama
Kind long.... So taking yalls advice, I bought Easton XX75 gamegetter 500s, fletched with 3 5 inch plastic feathers, cut at 28 in. I'm shooting my Bear Super K 40# at 34#@25. I took 3 arrows and put regular inserts and 3 with 100 gr inserts.

Then I set them up with 100 gr and 200 gr field points to total 200 total point weight. Both shot fine from 15 yards.

Then I stuck a 200 grain field point on an arrow with 100 gr insert. It flew the smoothest of all of them.

Am I crazy to try this given my short draw length and bow draw weight? Especially for whitetail hunting?

Thanks for any thoughts, or advice.
 
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Are you able to chrono your arrow speed with your trad bow and that arrow and your draw length by chance? Maybe at a shop nearby or a friend who has a chrono?

30 pounds, 21 inch draw, 385gr arrow, 155FPS, 250 up front. This should help also.
 
Kind long.... So taking yalls advice, I bought Easton XX75 gamegetter 500s, fletched with 3 5 inch plastic feathers, cut at 28 in. I'm shooting my Bear Super K 40# at 34#@25. I took 3 arrows and put regular inserts and 3 with 100 gr inserts.

Then I set them up with 100 gr and 200 gr field points to total 200 total point weight. Both shot fine from 15 yards.

Then I stuck a 200 grain field point on an arrow with 100 gr insert. It flew the smoothest of all of them.

Am I crazy to try this given my short draw length and bow draw weight? Especially for whitetail hunting?

Thanks for any thoughts, or advice.
I’m not surprised you need that much weight up front for that spine with your draw length and weight. I would guess you would be better suited to a 1816 or 1916. I’d also not hesitate to take a broadside shot at a deer under 18 yards with that setup provided you are actually well tuned.
 
Iron Will S200. (From my compound arrows)
Total arrow weight would be 629.
I am using plastic feathers not vanes.
I'm certainly not trying to talk you into, or out of anything, but here's my take on it.
Anytime that you are shooting a well tuned 600+ gr arrow, tipped with heads of structural integrity (and sharp) you'll kill whitetails with short draw and low pounds. BUT...Are you shooting the best set-up that you can? In your case there is one thing I would consider changing.
I'd look at 3:1 profile, straight edge broadhead. That type take less force to penetrate than the Iron Will design.
Can you elaborate on the plastic feathers? What are they (as opposed to real feathers). How heavy are they? What is your FOC?
 
I'm not interested as some are in grains per pound of draw weight. I actually think that the lower draw weights need as heavy an arrow as those shooting 60 pound bows do. My thought (and experience) is that you'll need to make up for the lower kinetic energy from your 34# draw weight by upping momentum with a heavier arrow. Sounds like your on the right track with a heavy arrow with plenty of weight up front.
 
I'm certainly not trying to talk you into, or out of anything, but here's my take on it.
Anytime that you are shooting a well tuned 600+ gr arrow, tipped with heads of structural integrity (and sharp) you'll kill whitetails with short draw and low pounds. BUT...Are you shooting the best set-up that you can? In your case there is one thing I would consider changing.
I'd look at 3:1 profile, straight edge broadhead. That type take less force to penetrate than the Iron Will design.
Can you elaborate on the plastic feathers? What are they (as opposed to real feathers). How heavy are they? What is your FOC?
Feathers are 4.1 grains ea.
FOC is calculated at 19.2
 
My bad folks, still a newbie. From 3rivers web site here's the description of the feathers on my arrows...

"Fletched with three 5" shield Left wing TrueFlight turkey feathers"
No worries. Everyone is here to help and if they aren’t, we shall say Good For You. Or GFY for short I guess.
 
My bad folks, still a newbie. From 3rivers web site here's the description of the feathers on my arrows...

"Fletched with three 5" shield Left wing TrueFlight turkey feathers"
I was a little confused because I know there is such a product as "Trad Vanes" (I assume they are some sort of plastic) but I don't know much else about them. I wondered if that's what you were referring to when you said "plastic feathers".

Otherwise, your set up isn't all that bad.
I still think you could do a little better with a 3:1 broadhead.
 
I was a little confused because I know there is such a product as "Trad Vanes" (I assume they are some sort of plastic) but I don't know much else about them. I wondered if that's what you were referring to when you said "plastic feathers".

Otherwise, your set up isn't all that bad.
I still think you could do a little better with a 3:1 broadhead.
Been researching for a 200 gr single bevel screw in broadhead. Going through the thread from 2020 here on single bevels. Yall have great info.
 
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Since you are shooting left wing feathers, you're stuck with left bevel broadheads (in single bevel heads). A lot of them are only made in right bevel and I'm not sure who all does make them in left bev.

 
This is the head I would choose.
 
Since you are shooting left wing feathers, you're stuck with left bevel broadheads (in single bevel heads). A lot of them are only made in right bevel and I'm not sure who all does make them in left bev.
Yeah, for this year anyway. I have been fletching my compound arrows for years with my trusty Bitzberger jig. I would like to do the same with trad arrows. That's a whole nother learning curve to overcome, though. So for this year, I took the shortcut of prefletched. It's all good.
 
Single bevel isn’t going to make a huge difference. Main thing is two blade, close to 3:1, and razor sharp.
 
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