New to rifles, mounting a scope

[cartman]

Ive read great things about these. I would buy one but I am trying to get this set up for this weekend. I guess I could always come back and get it more level after the fact. Are they sold anywhere locally?

I can get them from my Local Gun shop. That is Fuquay Gun in North Carolina.
I have also seen them at Cabela's from time to time. They are pretty popular.

If you need it for this weekend. I would just eyeball it as best as you can, then I would bore sight it, and then use 5 rounds to walk it in. Until you really get into the long-range shooting, your scope being a degree off level is not going to make a night and day difference.

 

[bj139]

You don't need the crosshairs super level unless you are 1000 yard shooting. You would think this was rocket science but it isn't. It can't be boresighted since it is a pump so you'll have to shoot it unless you have a laser, muzzle mounted sighter. Remember to remove it before you shoot.

 

[gameflogger]

Ive read great things about these. I would buy one but I am trying to get this set up for this weekend. I guess I could always come back and get it more level after the fact. Are they sold anywhere locally?

For if you do not have access to the wheeler you can use cheap string line levels from the hardware store and check how true it is with a plumb bob hanging from the ceiling after you tighten everything down

 

[gameflogger]

You can also carry a huge piece of cardboard with you to the range, start at 50 yards then move back once you find your point of impact

 

[gcr0003]

I can get them from my Local Gun shop. That is Fuquay Gun in North Carolina.
I have also seen them at Cabela's from time to time. They are pretty popular.

If you need it for this weekend. I would just eyeball it as best as you can, then I would bore sight it, and then use 5 rounds to walk it in. Until you really get into the long-range shooting, your scope being a degree off level is not going to make a night and day difference.

Yea my max will be 100 yards where I’m hunting right now. I’m 10 minutes from a cabelas but they never have anything in stock, I’ll check there thanks.

 

[cartman]

Yea my max will be 100 yards where I’m hunting right now. I’m 10 minutes from a cabelas but they never have anything in stock, I’ll check there thanks.

**** at 100 yards and in, your scope could be on a 45* tilt looking like this X
All that really matters at that range is you get the center point lined up where the bullet is shooting!
Everything else only matters when you have to take Wind and Bullet drop into account.

 

[raisins]

It's a good skill to have. To do it, I watched several videos on it and read a few articles. I then bought a fat boy torque wrench and pack of 4 gunsmith magnetic levels. I already had a gun holder I used for cleaning to steady the rifle. And then I used a piece of paracord with a weight on the end as a plumb bob.

You can then adjust the scope whenever you want. 50 bucks and a few hours and you can mount all your scopes from here on out.

Follow the manufacturer recommendations on torque (don't damage the scope). Also, if you have oil, loctite, etc on your screws then it increases torque above what your wrench reads.

 

[gcr0003]

**** at 100 yards and in, your scope could be on a 45* tilt looking like this X
All that really matters at that range is you get the center point lined up where the bullet is shooting!
Everything else only matters when you have to take Wind and Bullet drop into account.

Yea I’m not planning on taking super long shots or hunting where those long shots would be present for me. All I’m trying to do is mount the scope and be able to shoot be dead on at 100 yards. Like I said. This is my first rifle with a scope and I’ve been a die hard archer up until this point so Im just getting my feet wet. The rifle isn’t super fancy but it’s special because it’s one my dad gave me. Just want to have a little bit better range with it then the 3030. Just want to shoot deer not snipe them. Haha

 

[cartman]

Yea I’m not planning on taking super long shots or hunting where those long shots would be present for me. All I’m trying to do is mount the scope and be able to shoot be dead on at 100 yards. Like I said. This is my first rifle with a scope and I’ve been a die hard archer up until this point so Im just getting my feet wet. The rifle isn’t super fancy but it’s special because it’s one my dad gave me. Just want to have a little bit better range with it then the 3030. Just want to shoot deer not snipe them. Haha

Yeah I would not stress it too much, You just get it looking nice and level to your eye and get it zeroed.
It will shoot MOD (Minute of Deer) at a 100yrds all day.

 

[Shakeandbake]

Doesn't seem like rocket science and I have already had enough jack wagons screw with my bows starting out. No reason to go down the same road. Might as well go straight to doing it myself. There isn't really anything I can screw up besides the screws lol.

Haha yeah it is only a couple screws but you can start chasing your tail when trying to sight in. If the rings are not level to each other you’ll create a small amount of torque on the scope tube and that can give you flyers. If it runs good on paper, leave it haha

 

[gcr0003]

It's a good skill to have. To do it, I watched several videos on it and read a few articles. I then bought a fat boy torque wrench and pack of 4 gunsmith magnetic levels. I already had a gun holder I used for cleaning to steady the rifle. And then I used a piece of paracord with a weight on the end as a plumb bob.

You can then adjust the scope whenever you want. 50 bucks and a few hours and you can mount all your scopes from here on out.

Follow the manufacturer recommendations on torque (don't damage the scope). Also, if you have oil, loctite, etc on your screws then it increases torque above what your wrench reads.

Good advice, you lost me on that last bit though. Oil loctite etc. is considered lubrication for a fastener and will give you a better nut factor and therefore a more accurate torque.

When a fastener is dry more friction Is present which can/will make it seem like you hit the torque when in reality you probably didn’t. lubrications don’t increase your actual torque, it just makes it easier to get closer to your desired torque. That said with lubrication and better lubrications you have less friction and can apply a higher torque to the fastener then if not lubricated.

 

[gcr0003]

Haha yeah it is only a couple screws but you can start chasing your tail when trying to sight in. If the rings are not level to each other you’ll create a small amount of torque on the scope tube and that can give you flyers. If it runs good on paper, leave it haha

Yea I want to at least make sure everything is close to level.

 

[Tr33_n1nj@]

I would recommend Burris Signature rings, if you don't have a torque wrench. They have a plastic insert that helps prevent damage to the scope body and keep your scope aligned within the ring (and eliminates the need to lap the rings).

As far as height, the see through mounts work, but they might lead to a more uncomfortable cheek weld.

I would definitely recommend doing it yourself. I've seen stores mess it up pretty bad (putting mounts in backwards and all sorts of bad stuff).

X2 on the Burris signature zee rings.

 

[raisins]

Good advice, you lost me on that last bit though. Oil loctite etc. is considered lubrication for a fastener and will give you a better nut factor and therefore a more accurate torque.

When a fastener is dry more friction Is present which can/will make it seem like you hit the torque when in reality you probably didn’t. lubrications don’t increase your actual torque, it just makes it easier to get closer to your desired torque. That said with lubrication and better lubrications you have less friction and can apply a higher torque to the fastener then if not lubricated.

You obviously know more about that than me. Except, I've read what I relayed written a bunch of places. They might all be wrong. So check it out, just making you aware. But I did read to lube them with oil in one resource, and my ADM quick detach mount sent a little thing of vib check resin (red stuff you let dry first). So there are two contrary voices (I used the vib check).

I think what makes us both right, perhaps, is if scope manufacturers give their torque specs specifically/purposefully on dry screws. So, if you lube them then you are changing the parameters.

For most quality scopes, the difference between 20 inch lbs and 25 (or whatever) probably won't be a huge deal.

 

[gcr0003]

You obviously know more about that than me. Except, I've read what I relayed written a bunch of places. They might all be wrong. So check it out, just making you aware.

I think what makes us both right, perhaps, is if scope manufacturers give their torque specs specifically/purposefully on dry screws. So, if you lube them then you are changing the parameters.

Ahhh if that is the case then you Might be right. Gotta go off mfg spec. Touché haha

 

[raisins]

Ahhh if that is the case then you Might be right. Gotta go off mfg spec. Touché haha

Yeah, call them to find out maybe.

My last scope has a thicker wall than usual and is known for being bombproof (Burris XTR)....so I put the red vib check on there and didn't worry about torquing them down to spec.

A friend oiled up his screws and he had oil running down his scope afterwards (he sat screws in a dish of 3 in 1 then pulled them out and used them). Oil stinks on nice, coated scopes. If I get cleaning oil on them, I use warm soapy water and a soft cloth and then alcohol and a soft cloth, but it spreads it at first and supposedly can hurt your lens coatings.

 

[denots]

Get this.
https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Engineering-Professional-Construction-Gunsmithing/dp/B004TAB7ZO

This is the best "Gunsmith" tool I have ever purchased.

Basically, you strap down the rifle to a lead sled or some sort of bench rest.
(The clamp style level goes on the barrel and allows you to adjust the level to match the small level that goes on the receiver.)
Then level the receiver where the scope mounts.
Attach scope rings and then check to verify the receiver is still level.
Place the scope in the rings and then move the small level to the top of the scope turret.
Match the level on the scope turret to the level on the end of the barrel.
Once they match tighten down the rings on the scope and then zero your rifle.

I second this. A good level is more important than a bore sight. If you are gonna mount scopes this is a must have as well as a gun vise.

 

[gcr0003]

Ok fellas I looked a little bit closer I what I have and I do believe with my new scope having a larger front it will diminish the returns on keeping the see through mounts. I decided I’ll keep the see through mounts for my 30-30 and get new ones for this gun. I’ll have a little upfront cost if I purchase a vise, bore sighter, and a wheeler leveling kit but I believe I would then have what I’d need to do any other scopes in the future.

That said what are decent rings that won’t break the bank? I see there were a few already mentioned.

 

[bj139]

Ok fellas I looked a little bit closer I what I have and I do believe with my new scope having a larger front it will diminish the returns on keeping the see through mounts. I decided I’ll keep the see through mounts for my 30-30 and get new ones for this gun. I’ll have a little upfront cost if I purchase a vise, bore sighter, and a wheeler leveling kit but I believe I would then have what I’d need to do any other scopes in the future.

That said what are decent rings that won’t break the bank? I see there were a few already mentioned.

I like weaver bases and clamp on rings. They are solid metal from receive to base to scope and would be much more rigid than your see thru mounts. They are also inexpensive. To possibly get a little better you would spend 3 to 4 times more.

 

[Deerman406]

Mount it yourself, bore sighting with laser is fine. when you start sighting in you only have to go to 25 ft. Get it dead on at 25 ft and you will be darn close at 100 yards, than take it from there! Shawn