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Rappel rope as tether

J

JDB

New Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2019
Messages
36
Location
Lawton, OK
I didn't want to hijack the other rappel threads but got a question for you folks using your rappel rope as your tether. Do you just let out all your rope and let it hang as you start your ascent, or do you keep the bulk of it in a dump pouch?
I like the thought of not having to switch from tether to rappel rope when I'm ready to come down, but seems like I would be stepping over/ around the rappel rope when needing to shift to make a shot.
 
I use a long rope as my tether. I coil the excess rope into a figure 8 pattern (no line twist) and attach it on my hip with a cheap lashing strap.

Rappel rope

Red beard Could you show how you put rappel rope in water bottle holder for rappelling So when in comes out of water bottle holder it doesn’t get caught up in holder Thanks Maybe video /new to saddle hunting this year
saddlehunter.com

Since that post, I have started bending the figure 8 in half prior to attaching it at my hip. It carries better this way; the long figure 8 kept catching on branches and brush.

When I'm ready to come down, I just squeeze the lashing strap buckle and the rope falls to the ground untangled.
 
Thanks, gents. Both good ways to work it and I think I'll experiment with both. My gut says I'll like the figure 8 method, but maybe having the rappel rope hanging down during a hunt won't bother me as much as I think it would.
 
I figure-8 the bulk around my hand leaving say 10 ft for tether. The hand coil doesn't need to be folded over to carry well. I stuff that in a pouch and then stuff the "tether part" on top. This way I can just pull out the tether portion easily, and keep the rest coiled to drop when it's time to descend.
 
This is how I do it. Watch his other video on rappelling. No rope hanging down the tree, or getting in your way while hunting.
Redbeard
 
JDB said:
Thanks, gents. Both good ways to work it and I think I'll experiment with both. My gut says I'll like the figure 8 method, but maybe having the rappel rope hanging down during a hunt won't bother me as much as I think it would.
Click to expand...

If you leave the rope hanging down while hunting, the deer may pick you out easier. Every time you move, the rope will move. That may catch their attention and they can trace the rope movement up to you.

I am not sure if that's exactly what you meant, but if so, you should bundle it up in the tree somehow once you are ready to hunt. Coiled on you hip like me, or stuffed in your pack, or stuffed in a MOLLE water bottle holder, like some of the others do...
 
I just coil mine into larger 2ft loops and stuff the excess in the meat hauler portion of my pack and leave a little extra out if I’d need to get around the tree for a shot on my squirrel steps. When ready it unravels easy to drop down for rappelling
 
JDB said:
I like the thought of not having to switch from tether to rappel rope when I'm ready to come down, but seems like I would be stepping over/ around the rappel rope when needing to shift to make a shot.
Click to expand...

I have been switching from Tether to Rappel rope since I started but I am also wanting to go with a 1 rope system.
I strap my backpack to the tree so rope storage wouldn't be an issue for me... just tuck it in my back pack.

I think for my 1-stick method the Safeguard would be the most efficient method to transition to but after watching the Redbeard video I think I could manage with my current ATC/Prussic rappel method. One question for Redbeard (I commented on your YouTube video) - Why do you use a separate autoblock below your tether prussic? Wouldn't it be easier to just slide your tether prussic down after you clip into your ATC and use that prussic for your brake/autoblock while descending?

I just need to figure out the stopper knot or gear tie on the delta link. I have the most issues with that falling down with a little slack introduced.
 
reggoh75 said:
I have been switching from Tether to Rappel rope since I started but I am also wanting to go with a 1 rope system.
I strap my backpack to the tree so rope storage wouldn't be an issue for me... just tuck it in my back pack.

I think for my 1-stick method the Safeguard would be the most efficient method to transition to but after watching the Redbeard video I think I could manage with my current ATC/Prussic rappel method. One question for Redbeard (I commented on your YouTube video) - Why do you use a separate autoblock below your tether prussic? Wouldn't it be easier to just slide your tether prussic down after you clip into your ATC and use that prussic for your brake/autoblock while descending?

I just need to figure out the stopper knot or gear tie on the delta link. I have the most issues with that falling down with a little slack introduced.
Click to expand...
I can't speak for @Red Beard but is he hanging on the "tether prusik" while setting up the autoblock? If you slide it down then there would seem like a period of being unsupported. If I wanted to hang from a prusik and descend with an ATC, I'd climb the tree, set the tether/prusik, hook in the ATC below it, and rig the autoblock. When it was time to descend, I'd loosen my tether prusik a bit, make sure that the ATC+autoblock was holding, then remove the tether prusik and descend.

That way
  1. I'm prerigged for descent and can tie and/or inspect my descent rig in daylight when not "at my worst"
  2. I'm able to test-load the ATC/autoblock while fully tethered before committing to it.
  3. I have an extra prusik/carabiner just in case something goes wrong on the descent and I need to relieve load from the ATC.
 
mattsteg said:
I can't speak for @Red Beard but is he hanging on the "tether prusik" while setting up the autoblock?
Click to expand...

He clips in his linesman so he can take the pressure off of his tether while clipping in the ATC biner. It just seems while you are on the linesman and the ATC is already clipped in, you might as well just clip in the tether prusik to your loop as you slide it down out of the way to rappel.

I have been switching from Tether to Rappel so I don't use a linesman because I am still tied off with my tether while I am rigging up my ATC/Autoblock. As I have been working through the transition in my head I hadn't really considered using the linesman in this way. So I really got something new out of the Redbeard video. Always learning!

There are probably several methods that would work with the gear I already have. I need to do some testing in my shop at low elevations and figure it all out I guess. I might need to switch my tether from a Distel to a Prusik... but I need to do some experiments. Climbing trees is so much fun I sometimes think I could go in the woods without my bow and still have an enjoyable time! But then I'd have to explain to my wife why I didn't take my bow with me. :blush:
 
reggoh75 said:
One question for Redbeard (I commented on your YouTube video) - Why do you use a separate autoblock below your tether prussic? Wouldn't it be easier to just slide your tether prussic down after you clip into your ATC and use that prussic for your brake/autoblock while descending?
Click to expand...
Hey buddy! Yeah since that video I have switched to a Safeguard. No muss, no fuss.

To answer your questions though, I used a separate autoblock because of material composition and manufacturer's recommendations. Sterling hollowblock is made for high friction/heat applications where as Beal Jammy (my regular prusik) isn't. Conversely, Sterling warns against using their hollowblock as your single point of tie-in (like a prusik).
 
mattsteg said:
If I wanted to hang from a prusik and descend with an ATC, I'd climb the tree, set the tether/prusik, hook in the ATC below it, and rig the autoblock. When it was time to descend, I'd loosen my tether prusik a bit, make sure that the ATC+autoblock was holding, then remove the tether prusik and descend.
Click to expand...
Described how I used to do it to a T buddy!
 
Red Beard said:
Hey buddy! Yeah since that video I have switched to a Safeguard. No muss, no fuss.
Click to expand...

Well that helps to know you switched... I will probably just go that route. It seems like the most efficient method for climbing and rappelling with the same equipment without having to rig up anything (unless you wanted an autoblock for backup as I have seen some use). And I like the fact that I can rappel down at any time during my climb if I need to.

Red Beard said:
To answer your questions though, I used a separate autoblock because of material composition and manufacturer's recommendations. Sterling hollowblock is made for high friction/heat applications where as Beal Jammy (my regular prusik) isn't. Conversely, Sterling warns against using their hollowblock as your single point of tie-in (like a prusik).
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought of the recommended use of the ropes. I have a Sterling hollowblock but I rarely use it. I prefer the prusik loop that I removed from one of my old safety lines. Both have the same intended use but it's a little thicker and seems to work a little better than the hollowblock for rappelling.
 
After I hoist my weapon with the tail end I flake it into my backpack which is hung on the tree. Then I pull a little out and clip it to my daisy chain around the tree so that when I move it doesn’t wiggle my hanging pack.
 
FYI - I use the hanging prusik as the rappelling auto block, as described above. When I slide the prusik down near the lineman belt, there IS slack in the tether, and technically I would be unsupported, except that prior to doing so, I hook my lineman belt up and pull it tight to the tree.

This does two things:
1. Keeps me tied to the tree prior to introducing slack in my tether
2. Allows me to safely use two hands to set up my ATC/autoblock/etc
 
I do it like this I pull enough out of the water bag to ascend I have it strap to my hip using a clip to linesman and a strap they supplied for the bag along my shoulder it’s tight enough to my side so it doesn’t pull my saddle off or get in the way as I climb and when I get to height I put a strap/gear hanger around tree and take my pack and everything else I need and attatch to gear hanger. Pull my weapon that doubles up as a pull down cord I use a bright orange 7/64 amsteel with 2 metal rated 24k small beaners. I then take off bag and stuff excess rope back in back but leave about 2 ft of rope and hang my bag to side of tree using gear hanger now it’s out of way and readily accessible for when I need it then I wrap a longer prussic line that I wrap underneath the knot and then attach to my bridge or on my linesman loop that way I have 2 points of connection and I use it as a grab handle when I need to shift or move and when I’m ready to come down I change the prussic to below my MR about 1ft then drop bag down to ground pack everything up then strap to my back lower my weapon of choice of the day attach 1 beaner behind the pretzel link and before the scaffold knot and rappel down so after I get down and get my ropes down I stuff everything back into bag and coil my pull down rope and throw in my pocket and attatch my bag to my chest with some girth hitched straps with buckle connections that clips to my pack I added and walk away. From break down of ropes it takes me about 5 minutes once I’m on ground. Might be more steps but works for me
 
Red Beard said:
Hey buddy! Yeah since that video I have switched to a Safeguard. No muss, no fuss.

To answer your questions though, I used a separate autoblock because of material composition and manufacturer's recommendations. Sterling hollowblock is made for high friction/heat applications where as Beal Jammy (my regular prusik) isn't. Conversely, Sterling warns against using their hollowblock as your single point of tie-in (like a prusik).
Click to expand...
I often wonder how much we are chasing manufactures who haven't warned against a specific use rather than chasing the safest products.

In this case it makes sense - Jammy has a nylon sheath (still heat-resistant aramid core which is a plus). Hollowblock is a hollow-core rope so your eggs are all in one basket. In others...it sometimes feels like we flock to whoever hasn't thought to warn us yet.
 
I've seen that video of Carl and really like is prototype hauler. Similar concept as DB4x4.

I'm using Sterling HTP static rope so its a little bulkier than oplux but should work well with a figure 8 on my hip.
 
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