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Rappelling for dummies

sconnieman

Active Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2019
Messages
157
Ok. Some of y’all commented on my safeguard post. Thank you. In the quest for a simpler and more idiot proof method of rappelling, I made the trip to REI and bought a black diamond figure 8, atc, a sterling hollowblock, and some 7mm cord. Is one of these devices simpler/more user friendly than the other? I think I saw a video where the guy stays clipped into his atc even at hunting height? I also liked the video of a figure 8 and using soft/hard locks.

Either way, what is the easiest/user friendly method between the two? How are you setting up the autoblock? I’m new to rappelling and still a novice saddle hunter and all of a sudden feel overwhelmed with climbing nomenclature. Any tips would be helpful.


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Also right now I’m climbing with canyon elite but I think im gonna switch to either oplux or resc tech.


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I use the exact same atc you’ve got with a prusik tied below it (tag end) clipped to my lineman’s loop. It’s seems idiot proof enough for me. Although I did notice the teeth were tearing up my rope a little so now I just switch it to the less aggressive side. It still holds plenty well on that side too but doesn’t wear out the rope as badly.
 
I use the exact same atc you’ve got with a prusik tied below it (tag end) clipped to my lineman’s loop. It’s seems idiot proof enough for me. Although I did notice the teeth were tearing up my rope a little so now I just switch it to the less aggressive side. It still holds plenty well on that side too but doesn’t wear out the rope as badly.

What kind of rope?


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For the last 2 years I've been using the black diamond 8 and a prussic to reppell.
Look up figure 8 autoblock, and attach it that way to your bridge, use the linemans loop on the downhill side to clip in a prussic.

PRACTICE AT GROUND LEVEL A LOT.
THEN PRACTICE MORE.

But this is how I descend from a tree, something goofy happens, hands off and I stop. Need to remove platform or ROS, hands off and I stop.

Fair warning, figure 8 autoblock has the inherent risk of completely coming off rope, always use prussic and make sure you have practiced a lot. But mechanical failure is non existant and its my favorite.

Last but not least, I'm a jack wagon on the internet, don't do anything I suggest as I'm not even a trained rookie. At your own risk.

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So unlike the safeguards the atc guide can be used to hold you at height? Seems like its another good option to the figure 8
 
A guide ATC has an additional ring on one side that will let you suspend at any height without a back friction hitch. You can also use it for progress capture in SRT or one sticking. It makes for an easy transition from sitting to rappel without disconnecting from your rope if you climb on your rappel line. The one you picture does not have this feature.

If you are going to 8mm rope the 7mm cord will probably not work well. You will need to go to 6mm or 5.5mm. I use Sterling TRC 6mm on 9mm Canyon and it holds fine.

Either the figure 8 or the ATC with a friction hitch below is probably the most foolproof method to get down. Since you have both you can keep one in your pouch as a backup in case you drop your primary.
 
Why can’t the safeguard be used to hold you at height? Did it all last season. didnt use anything but my rappel rope for the climb(with lineman belt), sit and rappel.

So unlike the safeguards the atc guide can be used to hold you at height? Seems like its another good option to the figure 8
 
A million bucks says you like the figure eight better than the Safeguard.
It takes very little practice to become smooth and effective with one.

There are quite a few ways to 'back it up'. I think a friction hitch above it is probably the most recommended way in the climbing world (not here) because your hitch can't get caught-up in the 8 if it's above it...
 
Why can’t the safeguard be used to hold you at height? Did it all last season. didnt use anything but my rappel rope for the climb(with lineman belt), sit and rappel.
I've been practicing with a few different ways to climb/sit/rappel......and keep coming back to the Safeguard as the best device to blend it all together and keep it simple. I like the Safeguard for progress capture and ease of adjustment when climbing and sitting.
My backup rappel method, if somehow something goes wrong, will be a "carabiner wrap" backed up with a prussik to my linesman loop. 3 wraps is about perfect. 4 wraps and you almost feel like you have to purposefully feed it through the carabiner. This requires me to carry nothing extra (no atc, no fig 8) than what I'd already have on me anyway, and it's so simple to tie that it's impossible to forget how to do it in the moment of truth.
 
A million bucks says you like the figure eight better than the Safeguard.
It takes very little practice to become smooth and effective with one.

There are quite a few ways to 'back it up'. I think a friction hitch above it is probably the most recommended way in the climbing world (not here) because your hitch can't get caught-up in the 8 if it's above it...

What about the atc vs figure 8? I mean I’m gonna try both but is there any advantage to one or the other?


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A guide ATC has an additional ring on one side that will let you suspend at any height without a back friction hitch. You can also use it for progress capture in SRT or one sticking. It makes for an easy transition from sitting to rappel without disconnecting from your rope if you climb on your rappel line. The one you picture does not have this feature.

If you are going to 8mm rope the 7mm cord will probably not work well. You will need to go to 6mm or 5.5mm. I use Sterling TRC 6mm on 9mm Canyon and it holds fine.

Either the figure 8 or the ATC with a friction hitch below is probably the most foolproof method to get down. Since you have both you can keep one in your pouch as a backup in case you drop your primary.

I might have to get one. I was wondering what the difference was between the different atc devices. Less stuff is always better. I was thinking I’d just climb with a lineman’s and Prussik on my rappel line. Then hook up figure 8/atc for the rappel.


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What about the atc vs figure 8? I mean I’m gonna try both but is there any advantage to one or the other?


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I haven't been on an ATC since I was a teenager. (I took some rock climbing/rappelling classes back then.)
I can't comment on that with any accuracy.
 
I like my Petzl ATC with prussik on the tag end clipped in with a carabiner to the linesman loop. I don't switch out biners so it does require me to carry 2 more biners in my pack, but always good to have spare anyways. I have an 8 on the way as a backup in case I'd drop my ATC at height. I think either way is an easy/no brainer way to get down the tree.
 
I like my Petzl ATC with prussik on the tag end clipped in with a carabiner to the linesman loop. I don't switch out biners so it does require me to carry 2 more biners in my pack, but always good to have spare anyways. I have an 8 on the way as a backup in case I'd drop my ATC at height. I think either way is an easy/no brainer way to get down the tree.
Why are you getting an 8 for backup? I would think it'd make more sense to have the same device as backup that way you don't have to learn how to use multiple devices.

I will say that I have zero experience with rappelling yet and this is purely an information gathering question, but I ordered myself two 8s so in the event that I drop one from the top of a tree I have a second.
 
Why are you getting an 8 for backup? I would think it'd make more sense to have the same device as backup that way you don't have to learn how to use multiple devices.

It's a good idea to know multiple ways to rappel.

Why are you getting an 8 for backup? I would think it'd make more sense to have the same device as backup that way you don't have to learn how to use multiple devices.

I will say that I have zero experience with rappelling yet and this is purely an information gathering question, but I ordered myself two 8s so in the event that I drop one from the top of a tree I have a second.

Good choice!
 
Why are you getting an 8 for backup? I would think it'd make more sense to have the same device as backup that way you don't have to learn how to use multiple devices.

I will say that I have zero experience with rappelling yet and this is purely an information gathering question, but I ordered myself two 8s so in the event that I drop one from the top of a tree I have a second.
Great question! Like stated above I want to know/be able to rappel different ways. I thought about just buying a spare ATC but from some recent posts it intrigued me to learn on an 8 as well.
 
My reason for going away from the safeguard was due to its reaction when slack was introduced if used at height. Now i haven't used the atc guide yet but everything ive watched/read shows it staying put when slack was introduced
 
My reason for going away from the safeguard was due to its reaction when slack was introduced if used at height. Now i haven't used the atc guide yet but everything ive watched/read shows it staying put when slack was introduced

What reaction when slack was introduce?
 
It works its way down the rope. Out of the 9 times i introduced slack it slid down 5 times
 
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