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Rappelling for dummies

im a huge fan of the atc... but i dont sit at height with it... it stays in my pouch untill i rappel.. i am on a 9mm canyon elite tether/rappel line with a 6mm trc prussic... when i go to rappel.. i pull the atc out, put it above the prussic, move my carabiner attach to my bridge from the prussic to the atc, then clip the prussic to my lineman loop so it becomes my backup... i just dont wanna climb with the atc so it could possibly clank off stuff
 
If you're new to rope climbing and rappelling:

1. Set the devices aside and learn to ascend/descend using the accessory cords only. It's slow but it will teach you the basics. Devices are simply an easier way but you should always know the basics in case something happens
2. Learn your knots
3. Learn how to multi-purpose things

Knots are very selective and many have their own preferences. At a minimum, you need to know:
1. Figure 8 on a bight
2. Double overhand (stopper knot)
3. Double Fishermans (tying a prusik cord)
4. Prusik hitch
5. Munter hitch
There are others that many including myself use but knowing these 5 knots will get you up and down a tree

Multi-purpose things:
I'm always messing around with different techniques which also means I have a tendency to leave that (1) key device laying on the ground which does me no good. I've had to rappel on a munter hitch because I forgot my belay device. I've had to climb using my hollowblock as a prusik because I forgot my ascenders. I've had to tie my tether into a foot loop around the tree trunk because I forgot my platform and needed to take tension off the climbing rope to switch from an ascender to descender.

Granted, this has just been in my backyard but if I didn't know the basics and how to overcome issues, I would have been stuck in the tree several times. Knowing the basics, getting creative is still safe and once back on the ground, you've learned something new.
 
207bowhunter said:
My reason for going away from the safeguard was due to its reaction when slack was introduced if used at height. Now i haven't used the atc guide yet but everything ive watched/read shows it staying put when slack was introduced
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I need to clarify that the atc does not hold in place when slack is introduced. The only way the ATC is not moving is if it’s backed up by a friction hitch.

Also it is not intended to catch you in an event of a fall. It is intended to add just enough friction so that the rope doesn’t slide freely through the atc/figure 8. If you don’t believe me, tie a friction hitch recommended for rappelling directly to your rope and slowly sit down at ground level. You will slide right down. It’s not meant to hold 200 lbs. it’s meant to hold like 20lbs which is what the force is once it’s reduced by the atc or figure 8.

Please know that if you don’t have a friction hitch and you raise your brake hand above the atc you have a huge risk of falling. The at work only when it is in the breaking jaws.
 
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I should probably elaborate a little more on my prior post.

Once your climbing rope is in the tree, the only thing you "need" to climb and descend is (1) carabiner and (2) prusik cords. The upper cord is attached to your bridge via the carabiner and the bottom cord is for your foot. Everything else, ascenders, descenders, belay devices, etc. are simply tools that make the job easier.

If you're like me who also sees this as a hobby, buying whiz-bangs to mess with is just part of the hobby. However, don't get hung up on said whiz-bang as a "must need" in order to climb up, hunt and get down.
 
We really don't NEED any of this stuff. (but it sure is nice to have)

My first buck with a bow and 2 of my biggest bucks I shot out of trees that I climbed the ol' fashioned way...
 
If you are using in spec rope it takes some work to get the safeguard to wiggle down when unweighted. I Had to just go in the garage to try cuz I never had that issue.
 
To be clear i was not advocating for the atc guide as i said ive never tried one nor do i have the knowledge to know what can and cant be done with them. I merely stated that at hunting height the atc did not move with slack in the line. Personally for me being new to all the rope stuff ive found phatkaws figure 8 and back up for rappelling and a separate tether for climbing and hunting seems simple and safe...once out of the rookie phase i may try new things
 
Your rignt it may take some work but in it will wiggle down, just one of those things i dont want on my worry list
 
Islandshooter said:
I’m using 8mm on my safeguard and it doesn’t move at all unless i pull the handle. Used it all last season and it worked fine.
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This has been my experience with the (out of spec.) 8mm Oplux and the MR Safegaurd as well. Did not move at all.
 
Im sitting here laughing at the fact i know so little about this and im trying to absorb all i can, yet at 13 id hunt with my dad we woukd find a couple spruce trees at a good crossing, climb as high as i dared,age cut the top off nail a small board and sit with my rifle...oh how age has changed me
 
To piggyback off of @phatkaw, don't or at least not at first.

Canyon Elite is a good rope and wider=easier. Switching to an 8mm rope is far more difficult to climb and rappel that wider ropes. I now use Resc Tech (8mm) solely because I understand and can counter the greater difficulty in the small diameter rope.

To use the cheezy analogy, don't take the training wheels off until you're ready and only if there's a reason to.
 
^^^ Right!
I only rappel with the Ultra-Tech. I don't climb with it.

My 43' of U-T feels half as big in a pouch as my 40' of Elite...
 
sconnieman said:
What kind of rope?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Oplux and it was a few years old too. Just picked up some Research Tech so I have a fresh one for the season. Won’t be using the toothed side on it just in case.
 
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