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Rookie diy saddle

Powell217 said:
P
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I'm not certain I would trust the speedy stitcher for life support. You could maybe check for some place to sew it for you. Cobbler? Vinyl, leather repair, etc. Most of us who make our own saddles use industrial sewing machines with proper stitching pattern and stitches.

www.sailrite.com

How to Sew Webbing Loops

Learn what the strongest stitch patterns are for sewing webbing loops and how to sew webbing for load bearing applications using a handy formula.
www.sailrite.com www.sailrite.com


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EricS said:
I wouldn’t worry about leg loops. Thinking a rch would be better than leg loops. Those bridge loops on commercial saddles are heavy duty and is a continuous loop of webbing. They don’t terminate at the saddle they keep going under you.
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Please listen to this. The continuous loop of 7000lb seatbelt webbing is what makes saddle strong. You have built a death trap buddy. By all means, use it to get an idea of size, pattern, etc that is comfortable, but do not get elevated with that thing


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Is there a commercial saddle maker that uses seatbelt webbing? I don't think I've seen one.
 
Homebrew454 said:
Don't they all do it? I know my mantis had it

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You may want to double check that. Most commercial models are using 1 3/4" nylon webbing, not 2" polyester seatbelt webbing. I do not have a Mantis in hand to confirm or deny that claim. I am also not saying that there is anything wrong with the nylon for this use, perfectly applicable, and is generally in the 6,000 lb. rating ballpark., but there is a difference in how those materials act and react to water.
 
Bwhana said:
You may want to double check that. Most commercial models are using 1 3/4" nylon webbing, not 2" polyester seatbelt webbing. I do not have a Mantis in hand to confirm or deny that claim. I am also not saying that there is anything wrong with the nylon for this use, perfectly applicable, and is generally in the 6,000 lb. rating ballpark., but there is a difference in how those materials act and react to water.
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According strapworks, they have nylon seatbelt webbing only in 1 inch. 1, 1.5, and 2 inch for poly.

I got rid of the mantis when I got my Juki so I can't double check. To be honest though, I don't think I could tell the difference between poly and nylon webbing. I had been buying mine from ripstopbytheroll until DanO opened shop.

Either way, 6k or 7k breaking strength webbing is still more than what was originally posted.

Thanks for the clarification though.

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All the harnesses that come with tree stands that I ever had were 2'' webbing.... Look around in your hunting junk.,..... You may already have what you need
 
The only commercial saddle I have is the Aero Evolution and I know the webbing is not seat belt webbing width. Most of the pictures of other saddles I have seen don't have 2 inch wide webbing. Would 1 inch tubular climb webbing be enough? I would trust it with two support strands. I have trusted it on my bridge so why not my saddle seat?
 
bj139 said:
The only commercial saddle I have is the Aero Evolution and I know the webbing is not seat belt webbing width. Most of the pictures of other saddles I have seen don't have 2 inch wide webbing. Would 1 inch tubular climb webbing be enough? I would trust it with two support strands. I have trusted it on my bridge so why not my saddle seat?
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The tubular webbing I use is rated for 4000 pounds. The issue I see is having to get the appropriate amount of stitching into the 1 inch webbing. Look at my previous post (#21 I think) about the proper stitching of webbing.

You need to take into account your thread strength and put it into the formula. Based upon my last build and the formula, I tried to make it as strong as the 2 inch seatbelt webbing I used, which was rated for 6000 pounds. Based upon the formula and using the "W" stitch pattern, I needed 33 inches of stitching. I made it with 30 inches of "W" stitch and then stitched around the webbing overlap.

Having stated the above, I made an aider out of 1 inch tubular webbing with a 4000 pound theoretical breaking strength. I just had to have a lot more overlap of the webbing to get the appropriate stitch length for the 4000 pound strength.

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Progress
 

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Progress
 

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Is that vinyl handle your connection for your bridge????
 
Powell217 said:
Progress
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I’m not really sure if that’s progress or not. As stated above look at commercial saddles. You now have some kind of webbing that integrates with the bridge loops which is great. All of your weight will be on the webbing and the fabric between the webbing. All that lower fabric below the webbing isn’t doing anything. Diy gear is great but you have to be safe.
 
I'm not trying to tell you what to do but you'd be better off making a frame out of seatbelt webbing (or similar webbing with a heavy duty thread) strong enough to sit in alone and then sewing your bow case seat to that frame you made. I don't like seeing that fabric load bearing!!! I had a similar bow case years ago and the lining turned to powder so I could only imagine what that'll be after awhile.
 
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Jtaylor said:
Is that vinyl handle your connection for your bridge????
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The leather handle is really just adding just helping the nylon webbing keep its loop shape for easy connection but I’ve made it wide enough to bring the 2 loops together in front of me and I plan to attach my teather threw both of them at once
 
I
EricS said:
I’m not really sure if that’s progress or not. As stated above look at commercial saddles. You now have some kind of webbing that integrates with the bridge loops which is great. All of your weight will be on the webbing and the fabric between the webbing. All that lower fabric below the webbing isn’t doing anything. Diy gear is great but you have to be safe.
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I plan to add leg loops at the bottom and tie them into the webbing frame. It’s a slow and steady project
 
I think you need to take a big step back and do some thorough research instead of plowing ahead with your bow case idea. Honestly man the path you’re on is a great way to end up hurt or worse. Speedy stitching a few box stitches will not save your life neither will speedy stitched leg loops. WHAT YOU ARE DOING IS VERY DANGEROUS. There are lots of great resources for this stuff on this site. Take your time and work it out. You seem like an industrious guy, this is something you have to do carefully.


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