Saddle Riding Up?

[MN_Bowhunter4]

First season in the saddle. I have a mantis and a rather robust behind. I find that the saddle waist belt likes to sit right with my belt initially, but tends to ride up my back, and not like to cup my large rear end.

I have the micro adjusters but never felt that they did anything for me. I took them off. I’ve also dropped 30+ pounds since I purchased the size xl, but by my pant size it should still fit. Any tips to better cup and cradle?

 

[Bigterp]

Try the top of it 4-6 inches below your beltline & possibly lower tether a hair.... check that out & let us know. Pics are helpful

 

[MN_Bowhunter4]

Forgot to mention the tether height. I run it about chin height and am primary leaning with occasional sitting.

I’ll try dropping it substantially. I’ve tried an inch or two and I feel like I’m muffin topping out of it since the top is around the largest radius point of my butt.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

I do a wrap with my bridge around my bridge loops. It allows the bridge to clinch the loops. The clinch lets me position the bridge on the loops exactly where I want it, which has an effect on comfort, hip pinch and saddle slippage. If the bridge just loops thru the saddle loops, then IT finds the spot it wants to position itself. The clinch lets ME control it.

 

[NW_Arkansas22]

I do a wrap with my bridge around my bridge loops. It allows the bridge to clinch the loops. The clinch lets me position the bridge on the loops exactly where I want it, which has an effect on comfort, hip pinch and saddle slippage. If the bridge just loops thru the saddle loops, then IT finds the spot it wants to position itself. The clinch lets ME control it.

Can you do this with a spliced amsteel bridge?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Can you do this with a spliced amsteel bridge?

You will have to re-splice it, but yes. Girth hitch the locked brummel side and on the other side make an overhand knot or clove hitch around to bridge loop and then do a lock stitch or whoopie bury. That's how I did mine when I had Amsteel, but I now use tubular webbing and tri slides. I like it even better than Amsteel.


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[NW_Arkansas22]

You will have to re-splice it, but yes. Girth hitch the locked brummel side and on the other side make an overhand knot or clove hitch around to bridge loop and then do a lock stitch or whoopie bury. That's how I did mine when I had Amsteel, but I now use tubular webbing and tri slides. I like it even better than Amsteel.


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Thanks for explaining, Tom!

 

[Wirrex]

I had the same issue. I went back to a sitdrag.

 

[MathewsShooter7]

For me loosening the waist belt and positioning the saddle right below my pant waist line and then hooking the leg straps on the leg loops and not up on the waistband really helps it cup better and eliminates ride up...still every now and then i have to introduce a little slack and readjust. I think lower tether and shorter bridge helps with this also. I settled on 24" and that helped alot over the stock bridge with ride up.

 

[pesqimon]

Presently hanging with the chest high tether and a shortened tubular webbing bridge. This seems to take care of the sliding, though hip pinch seems to have increased. Further exploration needed.

I think I will try Tom’s idea!

 

[MathewsShooter7]

I do a wrap with my bridge around my bridge loops. It allows the bridge to clinch the loops. The clinch lets me position the bridge on the loops exactly where I want it, which has an effect on comfort, hip pinch and saddle slippage. If the bridge just loops thru the saddle loops, then IT finds the spot it wants to position itself. The clinch lets ME control it.

Tom, any chance you can throw a pick up of how you cinch? I feel like if i could get my webbing to stay lower on the bridge loops it would help cup alot better. curious how you do this and i am a visual learner haha. I also know i saw a thread about guys using zip ties to keep their bridge in a position on the loops, but i cant find it with a search. Sorry not trying to hijack but may be helpful for OP also.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Tom, any chance you can throw a pick up of how you cinch? I feel like if i could get my webbing to stay lower on the bridge loops it would help cup alot better. curious how you do this and i am a visual learner haha. I also know i saw a thread about guys using zip ties to keep their bridge in a position on the loops, but i cant find it with a search. Sorry not trying to hijack but may be helpful for OP also.

1st pic is the wrap around the loop and then do brummel lock, which can also be accomplished by just girth hitching an existing brummel loop. 2nd pic is of the whoopie side. If you dont want a whoopie then do a lock stitch, which are easy.
3rd pic is how I do it with webbing and tri slides.

Real world example of why this works...
I showed my Kestrel to a buddy a couple weeks ago. He had never been in a saddle. He was liking it after a half hour but then said "I feel some pinch in my hips". I adjusted the position of the clinch and he was sold. His words...."I could do this all day".

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[MathewsShooter7]

1st pic is the wrap around the loop and then do brummel lock, which can also be accomplished by just girth hitching an existing brummel loop. 2nd pic is of the whoopie side. If you dont want a whoopie then do a lock stitch, which are easy.
3rd pic is how I do it with webbing and tri slides.

Real world example of why this works...
I showed my Kestrel to a buddy a couple weeks ago. He had never been in a saddle. He was liking it after a half hour but then said "I feel some pinch in my hips". I adjusted the position of the clinch and he was sold. His words...."I could do this all day".

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Thanks so much ...That is what i was picturing just wanted to see it to be sure. I run tied and sewed tubular webbing bridge now but liking your setup with the tri glides and being adjustable.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Thanks so much ...That is what i was picturing just wanted to see it to be sure. I run tied and sewed tubular webbing bridge now but liking your setup with the tri glides and being adjustable.

The slides in my pic are from Strapworks and are not load rated. That's why I doubled them. I do trust them, but we have located where to buy the slides they use on the Flex. I believe they are 4,000 lb rated. I have a few being shipped to me right now. I should have them by Tuesday to test.

 

[MathewsShooter7]

The slides in my pic are from Strapworks and are not load rated. That's why I doubled them. I do trust them, but we have located where to buy the slides they use on the Flex. I believe they are 4,000 lb rated. I have a few being shipped to me right now. I should have them by Tuesday to test.

Great!...yea i like the look of the adjustable webbing bridge on the flex a lot

 

[MN_Bowhunter4]

Thanks for the advice everyone.

Tom - those pics are very helpful. I don’t trust myself with a wooden spoon so I’m hesitant to mess with the factory bridge. I did play with my lineman as an adjustable bridge tonight and a title longer seemed to help.

 

[Crazy4bucks]

Pushing the bridge down on the bridge loops to put more pressure on the bottom of the saddle helps a lot. I actually tied paracord around my spliced eyes to help keep it in position on the bridge loops.

 

[MN_Bowhunter4]

Pushing the bridge down on the bridge loops to put more pressure on the bottom of the saddle helps a lot. I actually tied paracord around my spliced eyes to help keep it in position on the bridge loops.

Can you post a pic for me of what you’re doing?

 

[Pooh]

Where are you wearing your leg straps? I moved mine to the lower hook ups. Lower the saddle to where you want it let the saddle hang then tighten down the leg straps. It'll hold the bottom of the saddle down

 

[enkriss]

I run my tether about chest height. It minimized a lot of the riding up