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Setting up a single pin sight

USSHornet

USSHornet

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2018
Messages
333
Location
Kentucky
I bought a black gold single pin sight and now I am asking myself some questions that I cant answer. My first time with a single pin slider or any slider sight for that matter.

Hoping you guys can set me straight. Whitetail guy.

1). I want to set that single pin at 20 yards with my slider at the top so I can shoot between 10-30 without moving my sight. That is my planned distance to shoot at a deer. I will figure out if I need to adjust for 10 and 30 and just burn that adjustment into my head while my sight yardage pointer stays set to 20. Assuming I will also need to set my scope windage and elevation for that 20 one time and then I leave the elevation scope settings alone.

Then I will back up and lower my slider to where I think it will be for say 40 and 60 and mark my setup tape when I get actual vertical settings for those distances (again thinking I don’t touch scope elevation settings for these because I set elevation at 20).

Is this right so far?

2). My peep…I will set that at 20 so I have what I need for 10-30 because I wont be touching my slider for those distances so my peep will stay aligned to my 20 yard distance.

But what happens when I take longer shots say just practicing longer shots…my brain is telling me that peep is not going to fit in my scope housing when I lower my slider…is this true?

Or…will that peep re-align to my sight scope when I raise my bow to shoot at that longer distance?

And I have no idea about the windage setup I guess thats a game day decision at my 30 yard max shot distance on an animal and my max distance setting for practice.

Thanks a million for any help.


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Okay tbh this is pretty hard to explain right through text so I might mistake something and or I might say the wrong thing. Bare with me.

1. You should be starting with a sight in tape. So sight in your 20. At this point don’t worry about how it shoots at 10 and 30. Those yardages and how they shoot will be determined by how heavy your arrow is and how much it drops. Also to shoot or determine your 10 set it at your 20 and just see how it shoots. You can’t really change how your 10 shoots.

You idea of how the further distances work is correct. You just need to find how them shoot with your setup. Mark them on your sight tape. But don’t adjust your elevation or wind age.

So with your peep it’s not set to your yardage. It’s set to how you and your body aligns with the peep with the sight. So this won’t change. When you shoot further distances you’ll still need to align your peep sight to your sight housing.

Then your windage adjustment should mainly be touched when you setup your 20. I’m not exactly sure what you’re saying when u mean game day decision. If a deers coming in with a ton of wind you need to know how your bow shoots in wind, I wouldn’t adjust the sights to do so. It’s not like doping a scope for a rifle in my opinion even know it kinda is.

Hope this sorta helps. It’s really hard to understand everything and answer properly through the internet!
 
USSHornet said:
I bought a black gold single pin sight and now I am asking myself some questions that I cant answer. My first time with a single pin slider or any slider sight for that matter.

Hoping you guys can set me straight. Whitetail guy.

1). I want to set that single pin at 20 yards with my slider at the top so I can shoot between 10-30 without moving my sight. That is my planned distance to shoot at a deer. I will figure out if I need to adjust for 10 and 30 and just burn that adjustment into my head while my sight yardage pointer stays set to 20. Assuming I will also need to set my scope windage and elevation for that 20 one time and then I leave the elevation scope settings alone.

Then I will back up and lower my slider to where I think it will be for say 40 and 60 and mark my setup tape when I get actual vertical settings for those distances (again thinking I don’t touch scope elevation settings for these because I set elevation at 20).

Is this right so far?

2). My peep…I will set that at 20 so I have what I need for 10-30 because I wont be touching my slider for those distances so my peep will stay aligned to my 20 yard distance.

But what happens when I take longer shots say just practicing longer shots…my brain is telling me that peep is not going to fit in my scope housing when I lower my slider…is this true?

Or…will that peep re-align to my sight scope when I raise my bow to shoot at that longer distance?

And I have no idea about the windage setup I guess thats a game day decision at my 30 yard max shot distance on an animal and my max distance setting for practice.

Thanks a million for any help.


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Click to expand...


i shoot a fixed 2 pin now, but shot a 1 pin slider for around 5 years and hunted with it (still on my backup bow)

if you set your peep for a 20 yard shot, then once you slide to further distances then your sight will not center in the peep IF you keep the same exact form, anchor, etc

you can replicate this by having someone slide the sight for you while you are at full draw

most people lower their anchor point slightly at longer yardages to compensate (the only other options are to raise your bow arm (in relation to overall form) or look through the peep with a different angle, but geometry dictates something must change even if not noticed)

i have a very solid bone on bone anchor and also use a nose button, so i feel this shift acutely and i do not like it, hence why i've returned to a fixed sight for hunting

if you go to an sight without a round housing and don't worry about centering the pin in the peep OR if you remove the peep sight altogether, then you wouldn't notice it as much or at all

edit: honestly, i shot better before i knew this and just winged it and didn't pay attention to the change in feel at longer shots....so i hope i haven't made things worse for you
 
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Thanks guys…yea the peep thing is bugging me. I really do not want to make anchor adjustments or head movement adjustments. I guess saying I will only shoot at a deer between 10-30 makes using a slider seem silly. Its just that I want to practice at longer distances to continue to work on my skills and I was hoping to clear up the clutter with a single pin.


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USSHornet said:
Thanks guys…yea the peep thing is bugging me. I really do not want to make anchor adjustments or head movement adjustments. I guess saying I will only shoot at a deer between 10-30 makes using a slider seem silly. Its just that I want to practice at longer distances to continue to work on my skills and I was hoping to clear up the clutter with a single pin.


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Click to expand...

once you shoot it, it might not bother you as much as you'd think

also, if you can increase the angle in your armpit of your bow arm then this might allow you to not change anchor point (this is hard to explain....you are keeping your hips and torso stationary while raising the bow grip in the air so as to change your alignment)....this feels very weird to me and so i don't do it
 
I am thinking practice will tell me. I was thinking my peep n sight would align by raising my bow arm and no need to change anchor.


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I shoot a 2 pin slider (20 & 30) so my 30 is my slider pin. Shooting around 275 fps with a 1/4" peep. I don't notice having to duck down to keep peep aligned until about 60yds. It's becomes very noticeable at 75 and beyond.

If you bow is slower or peep is smaller it could be more critical at a closer yardage.

I've never moved the sight in a hunting situation so it's just a small aggravation during practice.
 
So, I don't know nothin' about nothin... But I think the "10-20-30" yard business is heavily dependent on your velocity and arrow weight. Depending on those two things you might be better off with a 24-yd or 27-yd "battlesight zero". I know how to figure "mean point blank range" for a rifle but I'm not sure how to do it for a bow.

Cribbing heavily from https://saddlehunter.com/community/...ly-with-only-one-fixed-pin-in-my-sight.16152/ and trying to educate myself as I shop for a single-pin of my own.
 
I don’t pay attention to all that centering your peep stuff when I’m setting up my bow I draw it back with my eyes closed and adjust it so that when I open my eye there are no obstructions. I shoot in a new string and cables for a new bow before I do my final peep tie in. I use a single pin slider. I sight it in from point blank range (while aiming low on the shoulder at the elbow) until it just starts to drop out of the vital zone. For my bow and set up it is around 16 to 17 yards where I’m dead on or approximately dead center in the vital zone. I use a four inch aiming point on an approximate 8 inch overall vital zone. I never adjust the slider thereafter for hunting. Point and shoot essentially for my hunting set up.
 
I bought an HHA optimizer after my first bow season because I felt that the 5 pins I had on the borrowed bow I used led to a clean miss on deer. Maybe it did, maybe it was just me. Regardless, when I bought my own bow, I put a single pin sight on it. I set it up like HHA directions said. My peep was set at the bow shop and adjusted to my fit me based on my dimensions. I haven't changed that except to change strings as needed over the years. Initially I got it on the target really close, so I wasn't just flinging arrows around dangerously. Then I ranged 2o yards and with the sight in tape on the sight I shot at the close distance and adjusted the sight until it was on. I marked the 20-yard setting. Then I backed up and ranged 60 yards. From 60 I sort of guessed where I needed to be and ended up on the bag target, from there it was fine tuning until I got the 60 yards setting down and I marked it. At this point I could use one of the tapes provided that corresponded with the setting I found. Now the bow was on to 80. I used to practice the first couple of years out to long distances and I was shooting a light arrow. I thought I was good to hunt out to 35 or 40 yards easy. I practiced a lot and was really proficient at home on the target.

Well, after missing deer and worse, sticking deer, I decided that long range bow hunting was not for me. After having a light arrow with a mechanical stop cold on the shoulder of the biggest buck of my life to that point I decided to see what I could do to make sure that never happened again. I researched arrow lethality and found Dr, Ashby's research and headed down that path. Nowadays, I max my hunting ranges out to about 25 yards, and I shoot a heavier arrow with a good cut on contact head. I keep my single pin set at about 20 yards and if the deer is really close or at a steep angle, I aim just a bit low, maybe 2 inches. If it is on the far side, say 25 yards, I aim about an inch high. It works for me. At crunch time, I just worry about what the deer is doing because I don't have to think about the bow, the arrow, or the sight.
 
I should add to my previous post thst this gives me to about 27-28 yards so I can aim dead on from 0 to about 28 yards without having to think at the moment of truth. When I shot a flapper set up I was pretty good to about 32-34yards.
 
one thing to keep in mind is that if you set the pointer to dead center midpoint between 20 and 30 yards (if it doesn't have a 25 yard number slightly closer to 30)......then your 25 yards is actually 26 to 27 yards

the same reasoning that makes the 40 yard mark closer to the 20 yard mark than it is to the 60 yard mark applies here (this same pattern seen between 20-40-60 and 20-30-40 also extends to 20-25-30)

i always set my HHA to "25" which was actually slightly more

so if you want to put it exactly at 27 yards for a maximum point blank range or something, then that spot might not be where you'd expect
 
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USSHornet said:
I bought a black gold single pin sight and now I am asking myself some questions that I cant answer. My first time with a single pin slider or any slider sight for that matter.

Hoping you guys can set me straight. Whitetail guy.

1). I want to set that single pin at 20 yards with my slider at the top so I can shoot between 10-30 without moving my sight. That is my planned distance to shoot at a deer. I will figure out if I need to adjust for 10 and 30 and just burn that adjustment into my head while my sight yardage pointer stays set to 20. Assuming I will also need to set my scope windage and elevation for that 20 one time and then I leave the elevation scope settings alone.

Then I will back up and lower my slider to where I think it will be for say 40 and 60 and mark my setup tape when I get actual vertical settings for those distances (again thinking I don’t touch scope elevation settings for these because I set elevation at 20).

Is this right so far?

2). My peep…I will set that at 20 so I have what I need for 10-30 because I wont be touching my slider for those distances so my peep will stay aligned to my 20 yard distance.

But what happens when I take longer shots say just practicing longer shots…my brain is telling me that peep is not going to fit in my scope housing when I lower my slider…is this true?

Or…will that peep re-align to my sight scope when I raise my bow to shoot at that longer distance?

And I have no idea about the windage setup I guess thats a game day decision at my 30 yard max shot distance on an animal and my max distance setting for practice.

Thanks a million for any help.


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Click to expand...


Are you not using the sight tapes that come with the sight and using their prescribed sight in/tape selection method?

What speed does your bow shoot?

What model sight specifically?
 
kyler1945 said:
Are you not using the sight tapes that come with the sight and using their prescribed sight in/tape selection method?

What speed does your bow shoot?

What model sight specifically?
Click to expand...

best and worst thing about them....so slick when done right....but change something on your bow (string, peep, rest, etc) and then look forward to doing it all over (hardest part is getting a day where i'm shooting well enough that i trust my 60 yard sight in...i want to be shooting softball sized groups max to do it)

the replacement stickers are way expensive

if anyone has access to a laser printer (especially a color one), then these work great


i printed a lifetime supply of sight tapes for my HHA, but you have to do it on an untouched set of all the stickers, then gorilla brand clear tape over the whole thing to make even more sturdy
 
kyler1945 said:
Are you not using the sight tapes that come with the sight and using their prescribed sight in/tape selection method?

What speed does your bow shoot?

What model sight specifically?
Click to expand...

I haven’t even started to dight it in yet. Just read instructions on sight pkg Ascent Ambush. I was going to put on a post it note and mark the yardage pointer where 20 40 and 60 ended ip then transfer that gap to pick my tape.

I have a 60# mathews V3 at 28.5” DL I don’t have a chrono so I don’t know the speed .mfg says 342 but am sure I am no where near that


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I set my peep up with my pin on 20 yards. I shot out to 70 last night and it is not an issue for me. I also don't have a pre made sight tape anymore and worked out my dope just like I do on a long range rifle. I have bright green duct tape and make a mark when I have a good solid zero at a given distance. Not really rocket science, but I've never shot past 70 yards, it may be different way out there.
 
The peep really is a non issue. Just think of it like you have a 7 pin. Even at the bottom pin you have changed angle but not alignment. The difference is the whole scope moves but the pin is still in the same spot as if you have a multi pin. You are way overthinking it. Set it up so you are at the end of the travel for your 20. You will only move the housing not the slider to get that 20 set. Then move through the slider as you set up for the others yardage. Marking each yardage on the tape till you get to 60. Really take your time to setup 60 so you are positive that is spot on. Compare the tapes they send with it and match one up that is identical to your marks. Verify all the yardage are correct for your setup.

The 2 reasons to set your 20 at the end of travel is so you get all the distance you can before you run into fletching clearance issues and it makes 20 a no brainer to set in the dark. Just hit the stop and it is at 20. No need to look at pointer for that distance.
 
10essee said:
The peep really is a non issue. Just think of it like you have a 7 pin. Even at the bottom pin you have changed angle but not alignment. The difference is the whole scope moves but the pin is still in the same spot as if you have a multi pin. You are way overthinking it. Set it up so you are at the end of the travel for your 20. You will only move the housing not the slider to get that 20 set. Then move through the slider as you set up for the others yardage. Marking each yardage on the tape till you get to 60. Really take your time to setup 60 so you are positive that is spot on. Compare the tapes they send with it and match one up that is identical to your marks. Verify all the yardage are correct for your setup.

The 2 reasons to set your 20 at the end of travel is so you get all the distance you can before you run into fletching clearance issues and it makes 20 a no brainer to set in the dark. Just hit the stop and it is at 20. No need to look at pointer for that distance.
Click to expand...
That's exactly how I set my sight up.
 
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