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Sewing Machine Help

cmbetke said:
I sewed a my first DIY with a speedy stitcher and had probably 15+ hours in that thing with the speedy stitch.
I then got my hands on a lightweight Brother sewing machine and made more of a manufactured like saddle out of an old hunting harness, some camo fabric, and salvaged webbing...sewn with Guttermans upholstery thread from Joaans. I hunted all season long out of that thing and it changed my game. Be sure to read to Sewing Resources here and do your reading on proper stitching/load bearing sets. My DIY saddle changed my game this year!
Good luck to ya!
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I bought the Guttermans upholstery thread the other day. I just searched Gutterman's site and none of the numbers from the label found any info.
 
SemperFlightMedic said:
Be sure to learn how to adjust the thread tension for your machine. It will two things for you- it will make better stitching, and it will reduce a lot of frustrations if your thread is bunching on the bottom side of your seam.


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BIG FACTS!
Adjusting the tension from sewing two thin layers - through two layers of thick webbing.....makes a huge difference.
You will bust a needle or a few, but you'll get the hang of it!
 
And make sure you’re using the right gauge needle. Will likely need 14 or 16 gauge for the thread used for seeing webbing


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SemperFlightMedic said:
And make sure you’re using the right gauge needle. Will likely need 14 or 16 gauge for the thread used for seeing webbing


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I am just learning all this sewing terminology. Aren't the needles listed as Singer sizes and not gauge. The size 18 needles I bought are pretty large although nowhere near Speedy Stitcher size. "That's what she said". :D I could use a lesson in thread sizes as well.
 
SemperFlightMedic said:
Be sure to learn how to adjust the thread tension for your machine. It will two things for you- it will make better stitching, and it will reduce a lot of frustrations if your thread is bunching on the bottom side of your seam.


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Click to expand...
I sewed a bunch of sock holes yesterday and was using very light top tension and had nothing bunch up. I guess I am close. I will try webbing soon.
 
skell said:
Sounds like your on the right path!
Glad your ok!! I couldn't tell you the number of unsafe things I've done using treestands. It's a miracle I have never fallen.
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Honestly never thought it would happen to me but it did. Crazy how things go bad quickly. That wasn’t the first time that I have done that and I never had a problem. That will be the last time I do that. Lol
 
SemperFlightMedic said:
And make sure you’re using the right gauge needle. Will likely need 14 or 16 gauge for the thread used for seeing webbing


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Click to expand...
I am using 18 gauge needles. Do you think it’s too big?? Do I need to go to a lower one?
On the tension, can you explain further please? Like, do I need to tighten the tension when I go through thicker stuff? Or do I need to loosen the tension when I go through thicker items?
 
This is my last stitch I did with some old threads just to practice with. The threads aren’t too strong but I am working on form and getting use to the machine.
 

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Aaron Jones said:
This is my last stitch I did with some old threads just to practice with. The threads aren’t too strong but I am working on form and getting use to the machine.
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Can you break the stitches by stepping on the strap and pulling upwards? I was going to do some stitching break tests before I get ready to sew a saddle.
 
bj139 said:
Can you break the stitches by stepping on the strap and pulling upwards? I was going to do some stitching break tests before I get ready to sew a saddle.
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I imagine that I could pull it apart but it would take some force. I broke my back so I can’t do and tugging or pulling at the moment lol

The thread that I used was very lightweight fabric thread that my grandmother had. So I knew that it couldn’t be super strong. It would be enough to hold gear but not myself.
 
Aaron Jones said:
Can you show me what the WW pattern is? I am trying to find it and cannot find it. Can you send me a link?
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load bearing sewing :: take one

electricant.net
From here.

Useful links sticky

Nylon thread information including pounds per stitch: http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/m ... nformation Load testing of knots: http://www.bethandevans.com/load.htm DIY sewing info: http://electricant.net/projects/testing/testing.htm
saddlehunter.com
 
7mmremmag said:
I do the long W's and then kind of a pair of bar locks on each side. Horizontal to the strap direction. Been working great for me at 205lbs sans gear. No signs of stress.
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Thank you!
I will have to do some more research on the stitches. The bar locks is just a single stitch ran back and forth on itself several times on either side?
 
Aaron Jones said:
I am using 18 gauge needles. Do you think it’s too big?? Do I need to go to a lower one?
On the tension, can you explain further please? Like, do I need to tighten the tension when I go through thicker stuff? Or do I need to loosen the tension when I go through thicker items?
Click to expand...

18guage should be sufficient to allow the thread to be pulled through. Tension is something you’ll need to learn with each machine. The 7 setting on mine will be different on yours. Start with the middle setting and go up or down to find the right tension.

Also learn the reverse stitch on your machine and try back stitching to lock in your start and stop points. It’s easy, but this is also a place that will make incorrect tension settings very apparent.


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You're being very thorough in your research and questions. My DIY is probably over kill with my stitching, but it's easy to just keep adding more tacs. I really focused on the anchor point where the ends on the main 'frame' of webbing connected. Obviously if that fails the whole saddle fails. Practice low and move slow friend! You got this!
 
SemperFlightMedic said:
18guage should be sufficient to allow the thread to be pulled through. Tension is something you’ll need to learn with each machine. The 7 setting on mine will be different on yours. Start with the middle setting and go up or down to find the right tension.

Also learn the reverse stitch on your machine and try back stitching to lock in your start and stop points. It’s easy, but this is also a place that will make incorrect tension settings very apparent.


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Click to expand...
Absolutely. I make sure to back stitch everything. Normally I do lots of back stitching to make sure they are really set in and won’t come out. I will play with the tension to see the difference. I definitely want to make sure that I have all the correct sewing techniques and stitching so that I make sure the saddle and other gear I make is quality work. Thank you for your advice!
 
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