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Sewing Machine Help

You're being very thorough in your research and questions. My DIY is probably over kill with my stitching, but it's easy to just keep adding more tacs. I really focused on the anchor point where the ends on the main 'frame' of webbing connected. Obviously if that fails the whole saddle fails. Practice low and move slow friend! You got this!
I am definitely trying to dot all my I’s and cross all my t’s so that I can make some quality work. I imagine that my first few projects will be over kill with stitches as well to make sure they are secure. Lol
I am trying to find a video of the W pattern and just can’t seem to find it lol I am in my head trying to figure out how it is suppose to be sewn.
 
Regarding tension adjustment, remember that your top tension controls what is underneath the fabric, and the bottom tension is what controls the stitching on the top.


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Regarding tension adjustment, remember that your top tension controls what is underneath the fabric, and the bottom tension is what controls the stitching on the top.


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Absolutely. I will need to check my bobbin tension when I get the gutermann thread in and wind it up. I am still learning thread tension and how exactly I need it. I appreciate the advice.
 
Normally you can set the bottom tension, and not really have to adjust it much from there. Top tension adjustments from then on.

On a Bernina, the easiest way to set your bottom tension is to put the bobbin base in the shuttle (out of the machine). It should not drop, but if you flick your wrist (like a yo-yo) it should drop a few inches, then stop again.


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Normally you can set the bottom tension, and not really have to adjust it much from there. Top tension adjustments from then on.

On a Bernina, the easiest way to set your bottom tension is to put the bobbin base in the shuttle (out of the machine). It should not drop, but if you flick your wrist (like a yo-yo) it should drop a few inches, then stop again.


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Gotcha. Thank you. I hadn’t checked the bobbin tension yet since I was just trying to get some time actually sewing something. I will pull it out and check the tension. I am excited to start.
I also think I figured out the w pattern because I am just an idiot lol. Instead of doing an x in the box, just do a w lol
 
Gotcha. Thank you. I hadn’t checked the bobbin tension yet since I was just trying to get some time actually sewing something. I will pull it out and check the tension. I am excited to start.
I also think I figured out the w pattern because I am just an idiot lol. Instead of doing an x in the box, just do a w lol

Yes, you are correct.

One correction on my notes for adjusting the bottom tension — if you change thread size, you may have to adjust it again. A thicker thread will have increased tension, so you will have to back off the tension screw slightly.


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Yes, you are correct.

One correction on my notes for adjusting the bottom tension — if you change thread size, you may have to adjust it again. A thicker thread will have increased tension, so you will have to back off the tension screw slightly.


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It is funny that you commented that. I just checked the bobbin in there now, and it had perfect tension. I then thought to myself, what happens when I switch to a larger thread when it comes in. So that answers that.

I am very thankful for everyone’s feedback. Thank you!
 
Are people sewing the W pattern by sewing forward then sewing backward or turning the fabric and sewing straight?
 
I tried the dyneema thread with my Singer 227 and it did not work with the 18 size needle. I put the Gutterman upholstery thread in and it worked great. I had some problems with back tacking through two layers of webbing. Is 12 SPI about right for amount of stitches? I then tried my Singer 404 with the Gutterman and it worked better but still problems with powering through an already stitched area. Two layers of webbing was fine alone.
 
I tried the dyneema thread with my Singer 227 and it did not work with the 18 size needle. I put the Gutterman upholstery thread in and it worked great. I had some problems with back tacking through two layers of webbing. Is 12 SPI about right for amount of stitches? I then tried my Singer 404 with the Gutterman and it worked better but still problems with powering through an already stitched area. Two layers of webbing was fine alone.

12 SPI seems a bit tight. I would use 10 instead.

The 404 is a great machine! A real “work horse.” You May have to use the hand wheel for the really tough sections.


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I tried the dyneema thread with my Singer 227 and it did not work with the 18 size needle. I put the Gutterman upholstery thread in and it worked great. I had some problems with back tacking through two layers of webbing. Is 12 SPI about right for amount of stitches? I then tried my Singer 404 with the Gutterman and it worked better but still problems with powering through an already stitched area. Two layers of webbing was fine alone.
What stitch length are you running??
 
Reading this thread warms my soul, nice to see some new DIY builders taking their time and doing things right by learning, asking questions, and testing


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A good way to understand strength and compare your work is to break down a commercial safety product like a harness with a seam ripper and then break down something you put together. You will also learn about the robustness of different construction techniques


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I girth hitched one of the loops to a saddle bridge and clipped the other loop to a carabiner and sat hanging from my pullup bar in a doorway. I bounced up and down and there was no tearing sound and I did not approach the floor at any speed. :D There are 30 stitches crosswise and maybe 10 more length wise on each patch. What is the breaking strength of the Gutterman upholstery thread? I could not find it. I would only try this near the floor. I have a long way to go before hanging at height from any stitches I have sewn. I would want many redundancies of sewn patches and not just one or two.
 
What stitch length are you running??
I thought 12 stitches per inch but the machine may not be too accurate. In the photo above, I can count 15 stitches across.
If the Gutterman thread is about 20 lb breaking strength then 20 X 40 stitches is 800 lbs. The effective load on the loop is one half due to the pulley effect so not bad for a few stitches. One half my weight is about 85 lbs so nearly a 10:1 safety factor. It doesn't sound right but I don't know for sure.
 
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I thought 12 stitches per inch but the machine may not be too accurate. In the photo above, I can count 15 stitches across.
If the Gutterman thread is about 20 lb breaking strength then 20 X 40 stitches is 800 lbs. The effective load on the loop is one half due to the pulley effect so not bad for a few stitches. One half my weight is about 85 lbs so nearly a 10:1 safety factor. It doesn't sound right but I don't know for sure.
I was more referring to your stitch length. On my sewing machine I can stick like a 2.4 mm stitch or I could make it longer or shorter per stitch.

what is a good standard of stitch length that I would need to do? 3.0 mm stitch length??
 
A good way to understand strength and compare your work is to break down a commercial safety product like a harness with a seam ripper and then break down something you put together. You will also learn about the robustness of different construction techniques


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That is a great idea! Thank you! I am going to do that. I should be able to see exactly how they put it together and how they stitched it up. Thanks
 
I was more referring to your stitch length. On my sewing machine I can stick like a 2.4 mm stitch or I could make it longer or shorter per stitch.

what is a good standard of stitch length that I would need to do? 3.0 mm stitch length??
If 15 stiches are in an inch then 25.4mm / 15 = 1.7mm stitch length.
 
I thought 12 stitches per inch but the machine may not be too accurate. In the photo above, I can count 15 stitches across.
If the Gutterman thread is about 20 lb breaking strength then 20 X 40 stitches is 800 lbs. The effective load on the loop is one half due to the pulley effect so not bad for a few stitches. One half my weight is about 85 lbs so nearly a 10:1 safety factor. It doesn't sound right but I don't know for sure.
I just tied a figure eight loop in the end of the Gutterman upholstery thread put the spool under my foot and pulled upwards slowly on a luggage scale attached to the loop. The Gutterman maximum was 4 lbs. I did the same with the 60 lb dyneema and got 33 lbs.
40 stitches x 4 lbs = 160 lbs, now not so good.
Edit: I just tried this again and realized I read the Kg scale so it was really 4Kg or 9lbsf, so total 360lbs, not 160 lbs.
 
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I just tied a figure eight loop in the end of the Gutterman upholstery thread put the spool under my foot and pulled upwards slowly on a luggage scale attached to the loop. The Gutterman maximum was 4 lbs. I did the same with the 60 lb dyneema and got 33 lbs.
40 stitches x 4 lbs = 160 lbs, now not so good.

The breaking strength is thread is one element of the strength equation, you also need to consider how it will wear with use, how it absorbs shock, and how the elements (UV, water etc) work on it. It’s better to use a time tested and proven thread on your first build which is more than sufficient than to go with and experimental one in my opinion


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