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Sewing Machine Help

BackSpasm said:
The breaking strength is thread is one element of the strength equation, you also need to consider how it will wear with use, how it absorbs shock, and how the elements (UV, water etc) work on it. It’s better to use a time tested and proven thread on your first build which is more than sufficient than to go with and experimental one in my opinion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Which one is time tested?
 
bj139 said:
Which one is time tested?
Click to expand...

@ckossuth (thethrd engineer and past DIYer) recommends gutterman's 100% polyester for everything. Many people have used Coat's Extra Strong upholstery thread with good results. Nylon vs. Polyester has been debated for abrasion resistance vs. breaking strength. The Kestrel Clone thread has a good bit of this discussion.

DIY Kestrel Clone

Thanks for letting me know where you got the material. Looks like *** is out of business. Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
saddlehunter.com
 
BackSpasm said:
@ckossuth (thethrd engineer and past DIYer) recommends gutterman's 100% polyester for everything. Many people have used Coat's Extra Strong upholstery thread with good results. Nylon vs. Polyester has been debated for abrasion resistance vs. breaking strength. The Kestrel Clone thread has a good bit of this discussion.

DIY Kestrel Clone

Thanks for letting me know where you got the material. Looks like *** is out of business. Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
saddlehunter.com
Click to expand...
That is what I posted I am using.
 
bj139 said:
I just tied a figure eight loop in the end of the Gutterman upholstery thread put the spool under my foot and pulled upwards slowly on a luggage scale attached to the loop. The Gutterman maximum was 4 lbs. I did the same with the 60 lb dyneema and got 33 lbs.
40 stitches x 4 lbs = 160 lbs, now not so good.
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I just tried this again and realized I read the Kg scale so it was really 4Kg or 9lbsf, so total 360lbs, not 160 lbs.
I think the reported strength of the Guttermans 92 is 8.3 lbs so this is more in line.
I'll do the calculation as shown on the Sailrite site ( I just posted the link on the sewing resources thread on SH today) .
Edit: A quick calc from the Sailrite site shows 2 inches of thread to be 404lbs using my SPI.
 
Last edited:
I am practicing on these straps. The weave is quite loose compared to the straps on my Aero Evolution, I think. I will try the needle penetration on the Aero Evo straps. Longer stitches do seem easier on the sewing machine.
www.harborfreight.com

1 in. x 12 ft. Lashing Straps 2 Pack

Amazing deals on this 1In X 12Ft Lashing Straps 2Pk at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
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Aaron Jones said:
Thank you I appreciate it. I know I ask lots of questions and I am sorry.

do you change the length of your stitch when you start your zigzag?
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Don't apologize for asking questions!
Many in the DIY crowd are here to learn AND help. It's good to have people asking questions. You never know who is reading and doesn't even know they don't know what was asked.

I am far from an expert on bar tacks. The few I have done I started in the center of the webbing (so the stitch end isn't near the edge) and did a straight stitch, the switched to zigzag and went over the straight line finishing again in the center of the webbing. And yes I shortened the stitch length before starting zig zag stitches. I couldn't even tell you at this point where I read to do it that way. I have spent a ton of time reading about sewing and techniques...it all blurs together.
 
Aaron Jones said:
Thank you I appreciate it. I know I ask lots of questions and I am sorry.

do you change the length of your stitch when you start your zigzag?
Click to expand...

I have, I have done them at 4mm as well, never at 1mm though. I just make them the narrowest zig zag my machine can do. As I said, it is kind of a barlock. Most of my strength is in the long W. I like the barlock type stitch at the end to act as a cap. I feel it looks neater and puts less stress on everything. I could be wrong but it has worked great for me.



skell said:
Don't apologize for asking questions!
Many in the DIY crowd are here to learn AND help. It's good to have people asking questions. You never know who is reading and doesn't even know they don't know what was asked.

I am far from an expert on bar tacks. The few I have done I started in the center of the webbing (so the stitch end isn't near the edge) and did a straight stitch, the switched to zigzag and went over the straight line finishing again in the center of the webbing. And yes I shortened the stitch length before starting zig zag stitches. I couldn't even tell you at this point where I read to do it that way. I have spent a ton of time reading about sewing and techniques...it all blurs together.
Click to expand...

Agreed, no need to apologize.
 
skell said:
Don't apologize for asking questions!
Many in the DIY crowd are here to learn AND help. It's good to have people asking questions. You never know who is reading and doesn't even know they don't know what was asked.

I am far from an expert on bar tacks. The few I have done I started in the center of the webbing (so the stitch end isn't near the edge) and did a straight stitch, the switched to zigzag and went over the straight line finishing again in the center of the webbing. And yes I shortened the stitch length before starting zig zag stitches. I couldn't even tell you at this point where I read to do it that way. I have spent a ton of time reading about sewing and techniques...it all blurs together.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. I appreciate it. Truly! I also know when a “new guy” joins a forum it gets repetitive when having to answer the same questions. I try the search bar with key words before to see if a past thread had covered it and I also look up on google/YouTube to see if anyone covers it there. If I missed them in the forum in an earlier post, hopefully I can find it next time.

I am definitely here to learn. I have been watching sewing videos like crazy and I have been practicing on the machine to get use to it. I have lots of items coming in the mail today and the rest coming next week. I will have all the supplies to make saddles and gear along with it. I am looking forward to putting stuff together but want to make sure it’s quality work. So I definitely appreciate it.

7mmremmag said:
I have, I have done them at 4mm as well, never at 1mm though. I just make them the narrowest zig zag my machine can do. As I said, it is kind of a barlock. Most of my strength is in the long W. I like the barlock type stitch at the end to act as a cap. I feel it looks neater and puts less stress on everything. I could be wrong but it has worked great for me.





Agreed, no need to apologize.
Click to expand...
thank you for the information. Do you do the bar lock in continuation of the “W” stitch? Like once you have done the “w” do you keep your needle in and rotate the webbing to go straight into the bar lock?
 
Aaron Jones said:
Absolutely. I appreciate it. Truly! I also know when a “new guy” joins a forum it gets repetitive when having to answer the same questions. I try the search bar with key words before to see if a past thread had covered it and I also look up on google/YouTube to see if anyone covers it there. If I missed them in the forum in an earlier post, hopefully I can find it next time.

I am definitely here to learn. I have been watching sewing videos like crazy and I have been practicing on the machine to get use to it. I have lots of items coming in the mail today and the rest coming next week. I will have all the supplies to make saddles and gear along with it. I am looking forward to putting stuff together but want to make sure it’s quality work. So I definitely appreciate it.


thank you for the information. Do you do the bar lock in continuation of the “W” stitch? Like once you have done the “w” do you keep your needle in and rotate the webbing to go straight into the bar lock?
Click to expand...

I do them separately.
 
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