Maybe try taking the velcro off the window so the arrow is at center and see what happens. I hot 400 spine carbons with 150 up front out of the recurve I built. It was 50#. You are a drawing a half inch more with 8# more draw weight. I could easily see needing to go to a 250 to handle 200-250 up front. You might have to leave them full length or close to it though.
I just haven’t heard of any trad guys shooting that stiff of a spine, also the 3Rivers dynamic spine calculator had my bow at like 60s and my arrow w/ 100 gr at like 115-120, which is no where remotely close. I feel like their calculator is usually pretty close to accurate in my experience.
I can try bumping out my rest but I thought it would have an adverse affect but maybe I have it backwards. Bumping out rest means you’d need a weaker spine right? My arrows are currently telling me that I’m already on the edge of underspined. So maybe bumping it out just a little and adding a couple twist to my string will get my back in the range of some tip weight?
Here is a little experiment. Load the front to where you want to be and then build your shelf out a little and see if it works. Then you can take advantage of paradox. A trad bow with center shot will behave more like a compound that is center shot. The arrow doesn't know what is launching it.
Some times the calculators are really close and sometimes they arent. The bow and arrow combo doesnt lie. Brace height and strike plate is about all you can do with the bow tuning wise. The rest of the tune is going to come from the arrow setup and the arrow flight will tell you when it's right. I dont give two flips what the charts or calculators say or what set up works for someone else or why, I just have to figure out what flys right out of my bow. Sometimes we have to stop thinking about what we think should be right and just listen to the bow and arrow.
Yes and that is why I suggested taking the velcro off the window. Should give or show you a truer representation of where you are spine wise if you are shooting from center. I would prolly screw on a 200 grain point too and see what it shows.
Agreed. grc0003, what was the setup that was previously working for you? If you are happy with that arrow/broadhead configuration and all that has happened is that you have increased draw length, all you may need to do is bump up spine just a little.
What I thought was flying well last season was actually kicking left. Due to me being a left handed shooter it was difficult for me to pick up because the bow blocks that first 5 yards where it is really kicking before it straightens up. On top of that my form was so off I was collapsing and though I was drawing 28-29” it was probably like I was drawing 27” which just further complicated things. Now I’m using my back and expanding through the shot and you can really tell the difference in speed at 29”+ or so with a cleaner release.
That’s exactly what I was thinking about doing next. And a center cut bow still paradox’s, it’s the past center bows that give you perfectly straight alignment and don’t paradox much. My arrow points to the right a couple degrees.
If you can get her to stand on a step ladder high enough to video in slo-mo from above and behind you in exact alignment with the arrow and target would be great. It will show you exactly what is happening. At least that's the best I know besides a high speed camera but who has one of those laying around??
Well that’s part of what’s got me confused as well.
Left is underspined for a left handed shooter is it not?
What you described is what my arrow is doing when I add weight, but I’m left handed.
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