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Slow-mo Arrow Tuning

gcr0003

gcr0003

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2018
Messages
8,061
Sometimes tuning arrows can be frustrating to me. There are so many things that can affect arrow flight I.e. arrow length, tip weight, insert weight, arrow spine, bow poundage, brace height, shelf position, draw length etc. the dynamic spine calculator on 3 rivers is a great resource and usually puts me in the ballpark. Other times when tuning different arrows or weights/lengths I’ll get inconsistent groups despite what appears to be straight shooting arrows.

Fortunately the slow-mo video has done a lot to help me see the flaws in my arrow fight. A slight under/over spined arrow can escape my naked eye. Slow mo helps me get that last little bit. Other than that I just think it’s cool to see the arrow bend and twist in slow motion. My intent for this thread is encourage others to video their arrow flight and be honest with their arrow tune. A straight flying arrow is invaluable to killing deer with a traditional bow and it makes shooting so much more fun.

If you’re getting frustrated with accuracy and you have a semi developed form, let’s check out your arrow in slow motion to see if it can be contributing. If you have perfect arrow flight, share that with us too. I have a little phone stand I use, I’ll prop it up and also get my wife to video the shot sometimes.

Here are some recent ones I did to help me to get my arrows dialed in.

youtube.com

Arrow tuning 001

youtube.com youtube.com
youtube.com

Arrow Tuning 002

youtube.com youtube.com
youtube.com

Arrow tuning 003

youtube.com youtube.com
 
I upload them on YouTube as ‘unlisted’ which means only people with the link can see the video. That makes it where it’s only visible from the SH thread. I also put them into a short and I can put several shots on one shot 30 second or so video. Let’s see those shots!
 
If you don’t want to fool with YouTube and posting your shot. Pm me and I can post it and link it for you.
 
I messed around with this a couple years ago when I was paper tuning a new arrow build. Agree that it helps to see the arrow in flight, you can really see the wobble if it’s not tuned properly. Here’s a couple I took using my iPhone and a selfie stick.

 
gcr0003 said:
Sometimes tuning arrows can be frustrating to me. There are so many things that can affect arrow flight I.e. arrow length, tip weight, insert weight, arrow spine, bow poundage, brace height, shelf position, draw length etc. the dynamic spine calculator on 3 rivers is a great resource and usually puts me in the ballpark. Other times when tuning different arrows or weights/lengths I’ll get inconsistent groups despite what appears to be straight shooting arrows.

Fortunately the slow-mo video has done a lot to help me see the flaws in my arrow fight. A slight under/over spined arrow can escape my naked eye. Slow mo helps me get that last little bit. Other than that I just think it’s cool to see the arrow bend and twist in slow motion. My intent for this thread is encourage others to video their arrow flight and be honest with their arrow tune. A straight flying arrow is invaluable to killing deer with a traditional bow and it makes shooting so much more fun.

If you’re getting frustrated with accuracy and you have a semi developed form, let’s check out your arrow in slow motion to see if it can be contributing. If you have perfect arrow flight, share that with us too. I have a little phone stand I use, I’ll prop it up and also get my wife to video the shot sometimes.

Here are some recent ones I did to help me to get my arrows dialed in.

youtube.com

Arrow tuning 001

youtube.com youtube.com
youtube.com

Arrow Tuning 002

youtube.com youtube.com
youtube.com

Arrow tuning 003

youtube.com youtube.com
Click to expand...
Nice! Look like lasers to me!!!
 
Assuming you're using your phone, are you using a slow-mo filming feature or app, or some sort of post-production tool? I hadn't thought of doing this but I want to experiment with it.
 
Iron_llama said:
Assuming you're using your phone, are you using a slow-mo filming feature or app, or some sort of post-production tool? I hadn't thought of doing this but I want to experiment with it.
Click to expand...
E7F4393E-5D42-4825-9FC2-BF2D6791A805.jpegI have a iPhone and I’m simply using the default slow motion video camera option. After taking several videos I just go back and edit the video. It has two bars that you can move. The first bar moves in the total length of the video, the second controls when the ‘slow-Mo’ starts. I put the first bar 1-2 seconds before the shot and like 1 second after the shot. Then with the second bar I scroll until I see the shot, and back off of that just a little. The video will transition to slow mo at that mark, so you want it to be a little before the shot. That way I have 3-4 second videos instead of 20 seconds of me getting ready and drawing, etc. In the screenshot from the edit, orange is the video length, blue is the slow-mo.
4E61B229-7BED-48CE-989E-B35EFB737474.jpeg

When posting to YouTube, the app itself has a fair amount of editing that can be done in shorts. I select the video, then I might shorten it some more, then I select the next video. It does all the splicing for you. Pretty easy and pretty nifty. Hope this helps!
 
What’s the arrow setup on these videos? Brand, length, weight, draw weight etc
 
bigcat93 said:
What’s the arrow setup on these videos? Brand, length, weight, draw weight etc
Click to expand...
My first videos were various weights on 30.5” gold tip xts, 300 spine. You can see the arrow kicking out on arrow tuning 1 & 2. Arrow tuning 3 should be the straight flight video and what I’ll be going with. The other videos would be the same. The couple after that are kicking a little bit if you caught it at all are from form being off.

My set up:
30.5” 300 spine gold tip xts with 100gr brass insert and 200 grain field point. 580 TAW
29” draw
55 lb at 28# bearpaw slick stick set to 7.25” brace height
Velcro rest
 
Last edited:
youtube.com

Arrow tuning misery

youtube.com youtube.com

I’m about to lose my mind tuning arrows. Since I’ve changed my draw and focused on engaging back tension and fully expanding my draw length has settled in around 29-29.5”x I’m shooting a 55#@28” bow. The arrow in the above video is the only one I could get to consistently fly straight. It is a 30.5” 300 spine hunter xt arrow. I shot 100gr-400gr. 100 gr with a standard aluminum insert is the only thing I could get to fly straight. It should be noted that I could group arrows touching even with the kicking across the heavier tip weights, which suggests to me that I’m at least shooting semi consistent, Everything else kicked left (I’m left handed). The arrow is really zooming but it is way too light for my liking now. This really doesn’t make sense to me. I know i could go up in brace height but that would kill my speed pretty significantly. Does bumping my brace height allow me to put more weight up front or less. If I’m underspined, bumping it out would only make that worse correct?

The only way that I could get the arrow to flip over to the nock right was drawing like 25”.

I do see that my bow arm twists left to right when I release the arrow but my arrows kick left out the gate. So it doesn’t appear that that is affecting things… maybe I’m wrong. any experienced thoughts are appreciated. Thanks!
 
Just going to throw out some reminders, worry less about stated shaft sine and focus on dynamic spine, that's where good flight comes from. Dont worry about speed. Get an arrow tuned to the bow that carries the total weight you want then train your eye to shoot it.

For a frame of reference, I am shooting a 65-70 spine shaft with 150 grains up front out of a bow drawn to 51 pounds. You are drawing 7-8 more pounds. If your bow is cut to or past center, you are likely going to need a 70-75 or likely heavier spine to handle 200 or more up front at your draw length.
 
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BTaylor said:
Just going to throw out some reminders, worry less about stated shaft sine and focus on dynamic spine, that's where good flight comes from. Dont worry about speed. Get an arrow tuned to the bow that carries the total weight you want then train your eye to shoot it.

For a frame of reference, I am shooting a 65-70 spine shaft with 150 grains up front out of a bow drawn to 51 pounds. You are drawing 7-8 more pounds. If your bow is cut to or past center, you are likely going to need a 70-75 or likely heavier spine to handle 200 or more up front at your draw length.
Click to expand...
My longbow is cut to center, so with my Velcro I’m about .060-.125” off center.

In general I would agree, but something isn’t right here and you can’t ignore static spine because it is a variable in what your dynamic spine will be. I currently don’t have a good explanation for why a 300 spine with a 100 gr tip is what is flying straight. that’s what I need help figuring out. I shouldn’t need to shoot 250 spine in traditional bow to shoot 200-250 grains up front, that is just insane. Something else has to be up. Most likely my release or something.

I know I could bump up my brace height and shoot more weight upfront, but that would just be because the bow would be going slower.

More to follow…
 
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