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Slow-mo Arrow Tuning
- Thread starter gcr0003
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- Nov 1, 2018
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A bit of a pluck! That is the coldest thing you can tell an archer. That was from a few days ago when I first started focusing on back tension. I was trying to tell my self to rotate through my back on release. I wouldn’t call it a luck though. What exactly are your calling a pluck lol?
Lol. It’s not a bad pluck. I’ve seen and done worse. See how your hand comes away from your face and your fingers open up. Ideally, you don’t want to consciously open your fingers. You should just relax your fingers and the string moves them out of the way.
watch my hand in the second video on post 7. I don’t always have a good release but that one happened to be pretty good. My fingers and hand don’t come away from my face at all.
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So I’m not sure what happened the other day but I could not replicate the lighter arrows flying well. My one thought was that I might having been pushing my bow arm forward while releasing which may have increased bow speed and been too much for the weight I had.
So It did take some tinkering with release and bow grip but I was able to get 250 grain to fly consistently well. This back tension seems to be the source of consistency with my release and shot. I am starting to notice when I don’t engage it properly, which I can confirm from slow mo. 250 grain is very close to what the 3 Rivers calculator suggests so that gives me confidence in on the right track.
I’m going to shoot again this morning to confirm 250 still looks right. I’ll shoot with this weight for a few days before settling in on something.
So It did take some tinkering with release and bow grip but I was able to get 250 grain to fly consistently well. This back tension seems to be the source of consistency with my release and shot. I am starting to notice when I don’t engage it properly, which I can confirm from slow mo. 250 grain is very close to what the 3 Rivers calculator suggests so that gives me confidence in on the right track.
I’m going to shoot again this morning to confirm 250 still looks right. I’ll shoot with this weight for a few days before settling in on something.
One other thing to pay attention to that I think is often overlooked is your hook. Make sure you are hooking the string consistently. I can literally go up or down an entire spine just by changing from a deep hook to shooting off of my fingertips.
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Hook definitely makes a big difference! I want to say that I feel more consistent with a deep hook but I’ll pay attention to that today as well.
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I love the camera following the arrow down! Great job!Posting for @BTaylor
Btaylor form and arrow flight
youtube.com
49 @ 28” drawing 29”, 65-70 spine Doug fir shafts w/ 145 grain tips, TAW 585 grains.
I was using a new monorock for the camera. Still needs testing to get the fall and flip right but it's a good start.
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- Nov 1, 2018
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2216 XX75s w/ 250 gr
youtube.com
Just got some XX75s in 2216 after the 2117s were backordered. I cut this down to 30.5 and I’m using 250 gr head. Looks pretty good to me. I can’t believe how much these arrows wag their tail after hitting the target. They’re like a big ole tuning fork.
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With another half a year of shooting and a missed season I went back to my bareshafts to check everything out. I was getting overspine. I have ran into the issue several times when changing arrows. For whatever reason I draw weird while bare shaft tuning and I over draw. This causes the arrows to show weaker. As a result I cut them down and fletch them and go about my shooting. Then I shoot for some time and realize that as I relax back into my normal draw length I’m over spined. I had some more 2216s so I shot them with my broadhead weight 200gr and full length and they looked as good as I’m going to get with my form. It really is unreal the difference a straight shooting arrow makes. Im going to shoot this singular arrow for a while before I lock any changes down for next season.
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Once I think I have an arrow tuned I like to shoot bare and fletched shafts for several days. There’s been more than one time I had bare shafts flying perfectly one day, only to realize they were stiff/weak every day after that. Bare shafts are really sensitive to minor form inconsistencies.
Arrow flights looking good. One thing that jumped out though that might help a little is your head looked like it was still moving at the release. Getting that stopped should help accuracy consistency.
Any weight that you add to the nock end of the arrow will stiffen the shaft.
When I bare shaft, I don't mind a very slight weakness. I'd definitely re-test with the fletching added before I cut the shaft.
I think this may have already been mentioned but you can weigh your chosen fletching and then just add electrical tape to the shaft in order to simulate the weight of the fletching.
The weight a a few feathers may not seem like it would effect spine very much but if you are already on the edge of the window of tune, your rig will be super critical of flaws in your form, brace height, spine, etc.