Tethrd ESS Sliding Inner Panel

[Allegheny Tom]

I've been following your posts on that and have it on my to try list.

Saw your new version with the webbing ends. Wish there was a less DIY'y way to go about this.

There is an easier way. You could just hook the bungee directly to whatever place is convenient on the saddle. I can do it that way with my Recon and it works. But it just seems to self adjust ( toward tightening) a little more evenly when the bungee pulls straight and even on the plates. I imagine that there are several ways to skin this cat.

 

[CooterBrown]

Sorry for the long post but this takes a bit to fully explain.
Zip ties make the best cord locks for bungee cord. I think the smallest zip ties work the best because they bit into the cord better than a large zip tie.
There are a few ways to rig zip ties on shock cord. I f you zip them tight tight, they form a rock solid end stopper or non-adjustable continuous loop.
But if you zip them just tight enough they become an adjustable stopper. Click the zip click-by-click until you determine just how tight it should be.

How it works...
When the zip tie is in a section of shock cord that is relaxed (not stretched) the diameter of the cord is at it's greatest and the zip locks tight on the cord. But if you stretch the cord, then the cord's diameter decreases and will allow the zip tie to be slid to where ever it's needed. This can be used on a continuous loop so the loop size can be changed, or it can be used to adjust where on the cord you want a hook. I use 3/16" chock cord and those little wire/spring hooks. Feed the cord thru the center of the spring/hook and place a medium tight zip tie on the hook-side of the spring hook. Tighten the zip click by click and test how well it holds when you push on the hook. if it slips, the click the zip one or two more clicks and test it again. When it holds you know it's tight enough but then you need to test that it's not too tight. Grab the tag end of the cord and stretch it and the hook/zip should slide where you want it. Release the stretch and the hoof should lock in place.

As for a belt application, there are a few different ways to anchor it to a sling, but IMO it should attach on the plates (Recon) or D rings (ESS). Pulling on the plates/D rings will pull on all straps simultaneously. Having the bungee belt adjustable allows it to be fully tightened (for walking with dump pouch weight attached) or adjusted 1/2 loose when tethered, which will allow the sling to "open up" when under weight, but it won't slip down when you unweight the tether (readjusting your position etc).
One detail about this...I feel this works best when the bungee pulls from the center of the plates/D rings. Just hooking the bungee to the top or bottom of the hardware pulls the plates/D rings on an angle. It will kinda work, but an even, center pull on the hardware is much better.
There are alternative ways to hold the bottom section from sagging while walking but this methods don't address sling sag when unweighted under tether. The bungee belt address every issue of a loose sling.

Full disclosure:
I have not tested the bungee in any type of fall situation. But I don't see how the bungee would be any less safe that a loosened or unbuckled belt such as how many guys employ the belt when tethered. With use of leg straps, there should be no issues with the bungee in the event of a slip or "fall".

Do you have pics of this?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Do you have pics of this?

This is for the Recon and its working really well for me.
Those little tubes that run thru the webbing are cut offs from carbon arrows but I decided that I didn't like those because of the rough ends. There was a risk of my coat rubbing on them and making noise while tethered. I swapped them out for 3/16" dowel rod which is working fine. One added benefit to this, rather than the plastic tri slides, is that the main webbing doesn't get pinched in the plates which allows the main body of the sling to self adjust better.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

 

[Bwhana]

This is for the Recon and its working really well for me.
Those little tubes that run thru the webbing are cut offs from carbon arrows but I decided that I didn't like those because of the rough ends. There was a risk of my coat rubbing on them and making noise while tethered. I swapped them out for 3/16" dowel rod which is working fine. One added benefit to this, rather than the plastic tri slides, is that the main webbing doesn't get pinched in the plates which allows the main body of the sling to self adjust better.

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

I like your mod, but would like to make one with 1" milspec elastic with s simple plastic click bucke in place of the bungee, for a little cleaner look.

 

[Killemquietly]

I bought an ESS from the classifieds as my first saddle and put it through its paces for the first time yesterday. I absolutely loved it in the tree- super comfortable and I wish I’d have hopped on the saddle train sooner.
My issue comes when walking with the saddle. When the belt is tightened down snug, it pulls on the outer panel (the one with the lineman loops), directly allowing slack in the inner panel. Eventually it works itself loose, dropping down behind my knees. I hook the plastic clips in as demonstrated by [mention]valerio024 [/mention] ‘s YouTube video (which are a pain to deal with in the dark- especially since I haven’t stitched them in place as he suggests). And it still managed to slide loose after a bit of walking.
Is there a better strap alignment method for two panel saddles than the cheap plastic clips? Do I just need to wear the saddle way up above my hips for walking?
I’m asking before I stitch in the plastic clips in case there’s a better option.

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when you walk with it, It has To be up around your back and tightened up as John says I want to his videos. I was having the same problem after re-watching the video, It works perfectly

 

[Apex7]

I'll give an opposing opinion on carrying saddles and putting them on at the tree.
Just my opinion based on 50 seasons deer hunting and over 40 seasons climbing trees (Art, I realize that you are quite experienced too).
When a hunter arrives at his tree, its important to be as efficient as safely possible to get up the tree quickly. Goofing around with gear on the ground is inviting being seen by deer.
Also, when the saddle is put on at the truck you KNOW that everything is in order...no forgotten accessories, no twisted straps or gizmos to mess with in the dark at the base of the tree.
When talking about modern design saddles and slings that are so light and user friendly, I just don't understand the concept of carrying it in the pack.
But to each his own. If its working for ya.....

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I agree with the safty aspect of it. I use a E-bike with saddlebags and my saddles are kept in the bags so I always have them with me . I could wear it in but it's hard enough for me to lift my leg over the bar on the bike without a saddle on and I have a Bakcou Mule step through (injured back). For the guys that put them on at the tree if they take their time and are careful like they should be I don't see any problem. I always tell guys that it's not a race and if they are hurrying to setup then get there a litte earlier. Everyone has their on way of doing things as long as they always take safty first.

 

[KYhunter66]

I like your mod, but would like to make one with 1" milspec elastic with s simple plastic click bucke in place of the bungee, for a little cleaner look.

Ware can you buy 1" milspec elastic at? Thanks

 

[Bwhana]

Ware can you buy 1" milspec elastic at? Thanks

Lots of options, but I would go on Amazon for it cheap, not life support so cheaper is better for this use.